PeterW

The problem with doing away with a buffer - as I am finding - is that the heat pump has to push all of its heat into the water. They tend to have a minimum flow rate on the circulation pump so that dictates your floor flow too - with that you will also have to use the HP to control the water temperature and not directly the floor temperature so any solar gains in one area may skew the temperatures I plan to use a cheap indirect copper cylinder as a buffer and heat that to 35c and then let the floor draw off that as and when needed with the HP controlled by a tank stat half way down. This means there is a bulk of water for the HP to work on, and with using W Plan it allows the HP to concentrate on hot water if needed and have the backup of around 1.6KwH stored in that (if I did the maths correctly..) which should be fine.

So I have MKM and TP to choose from... Jewsons I would never entertain in a million years ! TP are OK for brick prices but atrocious at delivery - their drivers have more methods of complaining than I have ever come across before !!! MKM are OK on price if I keep an eye on them but I deal direct with the branch director who is genuinely interested in helping - drivers are good too and they don't have an issue dropping stuff over the hedge for us which is easier..

Yep same - only difference is I split to a submain panel in an adjacent box that covers the gates/outdoor lights and then 25mm2 2 core SWA to the house, ducted for the last 5m under the slab.

I've got the Wilo pump - pure preference being those are now plastic casings and the noise is lower.

Only from wet trades mixing mortar directly on it ..... ask me how I know that ..!!

It arrived on Thursday ..! It's the premium manifold but the ESBE valve is only good for up to 5 ports. I'm also in discussions with them about getting the 20-43c blending valves into stock for low temp floors. Watch this space ..

Looks familiar ..!! Though I found out you can't get the valves to sit the right way up today which is odd ...

Biggest ones I've seen are the Marmox Showerlay ones at 1850 x 900. Are you having dual showers as 1300 x 900 is about as far as the water ends up really.

Thanks for that comprehensive answer @JSHarris.! I am thinking that blockwork may be quicker as I have the guys on site and although I can't isolate the ground noise the trains are so infrequent that it's going to be a compromise anyway thanks Peter

Which one have you got ..?? Is it one of the Ice Energy ones ..?

We have a downstairs layout that is being planned currently but I want to limit the external sound. Although we are next to a road we get one or two cars an hour at most. The main noise is the main line railway about 45 yds from the house but again the train numbers are surprisingly low. I'm on site now and the birds are making more noise ..! Anyway .. the study will also be the spare room so I'm looking for ways to reduce sound and I've got options. The inner of the external quadruple leaf brick (yep..! 4 skins..!) will have 75mm Kingspan for thermal reasons. I've then got a utility space and I'm thinking that the wall between utility and study can either be block or studwork but what is best..?! This is low frequency noise and I'm erring on using block to give more mass and stop vibration Thoughts ..?

Yep keep going ..! I would go bolts at 600mm centers with Sabrefix washers and then if you really want to put a cripple stud from the bottom of the rafter to the top of the joist. Nice that someone painted your steel with magnolia paint.....

Fixed it...

I'm doing just this with a classic W Plan scheme. My ASHP needs an inline temp stat to control the max flow so I have one in one side of the diverter valve at 32c and one in the other at 48c.

If it was me it would be 6m or between the ridge and the wall plate as you've guaranteed the stability and your not putting any stress points on the existing rafter. What does the design show ..?

That will be under a poly slip membrane and UFH by tonight all being well ..!!

Tasty when lightly sautéed with some onions and butter ...

@Dee for your sanity order this ..! Carpenters ready reckoner and one of these Adjustable Square I did a full cut roof with these and its got dormers and jack rafters and I only made one duff cut after reading this little gem of a book ..!

Nothing more than you end up with some samey style "selfbuilds" that you can pick up on any developer site - most are backlands developments and inflated prices for land with outline PP interesting to see that they got PP for those bungalows as the road down the side of the Red House is privately owned and not that wide. The land with the 5 terrace / semis on it has been up for sale a number of times too. May have the plans somewhere for what we proposed - it was upside down houses as the full top floor was pretty open plan and took in the view out of the back across the playing fields and up to the woods. Issue we found was making the money back on the infrastructure costs as unless they have gone down the hill into the back of a sewer somewhere via a garden, the drains needed a pumping station.

Ok I missed the first line - I'm assuming you have a reasonably large plot and this pond you are digging is a stock pond to provide water storage for stock.........?? Isn't it ...??? If so, then it would be classed as an agricultural activity and assuming it's not huge or diverts a water course then there should be no issues ....

Lots of good info here http://freshwaterhabitats.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/PLANNINGPERMISSION.pdf

My thought is why go MDPE for the outside tap ..??

Spot the wrinkles ...

I've measured 4 at 126mm... 5mm is the tolerance on this stuff anyway so it's just that they tell you about it up front.

Under the floor ..! Its virtually perfect - apparently this 125mm stuff has a wrinkled foil surface so is cosmetic reject Delivery is £35 and they are really busy so it has taken over 2 weeks for delivery but worth every penny