PeterW

So that service is roughly double the market leading provider for cost …

space wise they can go under a UVC or be wall mounted. Complexity ..? No moving parts, just tee them into the flow and return to the manifold.

What are the ground conditions ..? Clay ..?

As the title says - administrators appointed 6th April https://www.durisoluk.com

Use the 135/45° bends but make sure you joint them using something like CT1 especially onto that horizontal outlet as they will leak otherwise.

Tree will be fine and that bottom branch wants coming off anyway to give it some shape.

Yes that’s fine or you can do it the old way with benched bends in brick built chambers.

@matthyde83 you need a new engineer sharpish !!! Lintel notes “all lintels require 3 courses Class B” is ridiculous, as is the use of bolted 150/50 next to Velux windows and 400mm centres on sloping roof sections. He should have upped the sizes to the next size and you can then at least insulate properly too. I don’t want to know how much you have paid but this is serious overkill on engineering….!!

All cleaning products have an impact - but used correctly they are fine. The Lithofin products are alkaline but to get that black off you’re looking at either chemical or mechanical cleaning. You could re-face the quoins with a diamond honing disk in a grinder but you would need to be very careful. I would start with Lithofin and a scrubbing brush and plenty of clean water and see how it goes.

yes - Cramer / Fugi tools come with plastic runners that stop the tool dropping into the gaps and following the tile profile.

yes pencil round but it is quite deep radius to about half the thickness of the upstand. You can hide it by reversing it

Possibly worth looking at something like Lithofin Power-Clean which is very good at ingrained dirt on stone. It’s alkaline so doesn’t dissolve like an acid will.

Check the Wickes ones - from memory it is bullnose and pretty sure it is 20mm

I’d be back to asking who needs this done ..?? It’s very rare to see earth bonding of rebar in a slab to anything as it is not exposed to anywhere outside the slab or have any connectivity to any other element unless there are J bolts or threaded bars attached to the reinforcing for any structural steelwork, but at that point you would earth the visible frame if required.

Sink can be retrofitted with a waste with an AAV on it - that assumes there is a soil pipe elsewhere in the property to vent the stack (which is what BCO may be asking for but not sure)

Only if it is in contact with the ground and in this situation it is entirely encased with an insulator (the EPS).

@zoothorn why not just go out the roof and trim the tree instead ..?? Quicker and simpler

Can get adjustable sections for “C” @zoothorn where are you planning on getting the stuff from ..?

What is the system and what does the manufacturer say ..??

None - you need to put a PRV into the supply to drop it to 4 bar then another at any UVC to get to 3 bar. Running 6 bar anywhere around the house is pointless

Are you suggesting that @pocster can’t use a tape measure to get the holes in the right place ..???? He’s got great skills in measuring ….

Sorry but as the one dissenting voice here, but I would spray the lot off with glyphosate (RoundUp, Gallup360 etc) and then top soil over the lot when it’s died back and then seed or turf. Anything else you’re just asking for it to come through.

Depends - I’ve had them put in a missing soak away up to 8 years after build however the first 2 years they point you back at the developer so making a nuisance of yourself is the best approach. Tend to not lift boards / drill holes etc as the house bashers can get a bit jumpy and have been known to accuse of making the problem occur or make it worse ..! Had a client who was accused by a site manager of removing the loft insulation from their new build once - even from the sealed void only visible with a camera ….. Sounds like using blown bead or blown fibre - if it’s a new build it should have a guarantee from CIGA (Cavity Insulation Guarantee Agency) in your handover pack.

Tapered wooden peg knocked in and glued, cut them flush when dry and if you want to then a quick smear of a part wood filler into any remaining holes. Use 5 Min Polyurethane glue so you don’t need to wait for it to set overnight.

Could be because you’re using the wrong type of mortar or not pre-priming etc..? I bed them on to 5/1/0.5 sand cement lime with a waterproofing admix and they don’t move anywhere. Gun adhesives are not designed for this sort of situation - you need a full width bed under the coping stones or they will just pull free. If you want a thin set full bed adhesive for these then this stuff is good - will work well with your concrete infil as will mechanically bond also. https://www.homebase.co.uk/norcros-rock-tite-outdoor-tile-mortar-25kg/13628420.html