PeterW

Just to be clear in a very strong wind lead will also lift unless it’s fixed down so I would look at the MIs first. Small bead of sealant may also be a plan - CT-1..?

I plan to do similar - more to keep dust out of the intake fans as they sit the “wrong” side of the filters for me which means dust and dirt can collect on them. Filter will be wall mounted as it goes through the wall to the outside to keep the runs to a minimum.

This is just for panels - not roof lights - although the design is dead simple for them anyway and it just needs some black anodised aluminium profile and a couple of tubes of CT1 assuming they don’t need to be walked on..!

What size and spec ..?? I have two that I use - both will deliver if it’s not too big. Don’t forget to make you curb tilt 1-2 degrees so water doesn’t sit on the roof light.

Just replace the lot with a new profile and they will all match ... Worth getting your BCO onside with that one so the certificate is properly signed off too.

Nothing needed on MDPE but don’t forget your stiffeners

The issue with some of the three sims is that they don’t play nicely with generic WiFi dongles and you have to make a call to keep them active every month. We have this with our gate sim which needs to send a text or similar every 3 months or it expires even though it’s receiving texts frequently.

You can use 24v out of the box with a pair of leisure batteries and a solar charger but it’s not as simple ..!

You have a PM

@Visti UFH doesn’t work like that - it needs a 3 way valve and would be connected to the boiler if that is an unvented cylinder. You also don’t need an anti vacuum valve on an unvented cylinder - only used on gravity cylinders with high pressure pumps.

Both very different ..!! immersun uses the excess PV to use a standard immersion in your hot water or unvented cylinder to heat the DHW when excess is available. The storage media is the water itself, and you still need a primary heat source (ASHP, Gas, Oil, E7 etc) to heat the water when there is no sun. The Sunamp contains all of the above in a single component and uses a phase change material to store the excess PV, and uses E7 currently to heat when there is no sun. DHW is provided when cold mains flows through the heat exchanger and the phase change material releases its heat to warm the water. To compare the cost of both you need to add in the cylinder cost and other controls against the Sunamp pricing.

That’s just for the panels. On top of that you have the inverter and all the fixings so you can probably add £1200 to that as a minimum. 80p/kwp is the cheapest I’ve seen so far

I use D'Addario Plain Steel Strings from eBay to make mine - cheap and easy and you can get them in various thicknesses.

Blog...?? Photos...?? Enjoy....

I agree however packing behind those two hangers may be the only option to stop it twisting - you could do this with timber or even a split block but attaching that into a gap isn't going to be easy ! If that is a Wolf System or similar joist system floor then the trimmer should be the depth of the posijoist and the hangers should also be the same depth as the trimmers (if they are Simpson or Cullen) otherwise you will get the lower chord not being supported properly.

Mine are 225x95 at 600mm centres for a 4.5m span - this was designed by DWB in Hull. The strongbacks are 38x95 from the design and they are nailed on. I will probably go back and make these even stronger with multiple coach screws before we board up !

Can you post the actual condition here as we may be able to help When it comes to things such as a bar on a window, unless its a copy of an "exact" existing window and there is a condition stating that window designs must be agreed or have xyz pattern then I would safely ignore it. As @recoveringacademic says, there is enough to worry about without this ! As an aside, a friend spent a number of weeks convincing the local council here that a "detail line" across their front elevation was actually a crease where the council had scanned the paper plans submitted...... They don't have the people to check every application so just get on with the build !

As @Barney12 says that’s the gate box spec. We have these - the grey box is the control box. Everything from it is in 20mm flexi conduit. http://www.gatemotors.co.uk/page-166-49-13

So there will be a wire per gate as they are normally separate plus at least a wire to a beam sensor, and depending on the unit there may also be a flashing light to show it’s opening or closing. This is all normally in an IP65 box at the gate with just a single power wire. There may then just be a single control wire to an intercom

Where is the control box going ..?? Normally you need to put the box with the gates as not only do you have to run the motors you will need sensor wires etc for the beams, key fobs etc. To answer the wire question though - 4mm2 would be a 2% voltage drop for 7A at 25m

Backing block is missing out of the trimmer where it meets the joists either side. Looks like the joists may have been installed back to front - usually there is a solid backer for the trimmer to sit against in the posijoist where the hanger goes. Without it, the trimmer will twist - doesn’t look to be double thickness either - and the centre posijoists will move. You could take the flooring up in front of the chimney section upstairs and do two things - pack behind the trimmer with a solid timber the full depth of the ceiling void - concrete screw through the trimmer to the chimney blocks behind. This would stop the trimmer twisting and give it some lateral strength.

That’s pretty much why we have less insulation in the dining room and kitchen than we have elsewhere ..! The rest of the house has a minimum of 150mm blown bead EPS plus a 25mm inner skin of PIR with all joints taped. We were putting the ceiling in the dining up last week - it’s vaulted - and we could feel the warmth coming up from just a 2kw fan heater 20ft away ..! There is an MVHR outlet going in the front of the false chimney to push the heat downwards and out through the kitchen extracts too. And the stove is below all this ..!

Dave - you have a PM...

You can't truss build a valley very easily. The "square" sections can be easily done, the rest needs valley / jack rafters and cut rafters to fill the triangular gaps between the sections. Its not impossible to do trusses but could be easier and quicker to do a cut roof using rafters and purlins etc. Slating valleys doesn't take long - you are adding a couple of days not weeks, and its not rocket science for a good roofer.

Why...? If you use a Fire Rated downlighter then it will include a fireseal. That is enough to make the seal work, and unless you use a full set of 60 min intumescent products to form a full fire system then there is always a weak link. None of this is relevant for that room....