PeterW

If I had a pound for every time I’ve heard that etc ... The amount of trades who think that learning stops when they leave college (if they went ..) is amazing - the fact that they can make significant time savings on jobs just by using “new” products and the return on the investment in a single day training is impossibly to quantify. A friend of mine runs a heating and plumbing supply company and they run supplier days. One boiler manufacturer offered a half day course in fitting their new boiler that uses a pre-fitted frame that is piped up and tested before the boiler is installed. They reckon it halves the install time and reduces the problems with installs. One person attending said he would stop using that brand of boiler because “he would earn less and it cost more” and couldn’t be convinced that he could fit more boilers in the same time so could potentially earn more ..!! When faced with that sort of mentality, is there any wonder customers struggle ..??

Depends what you’re looking for.... Current importer is registered with CoHo and has filed accounts so has a trading history. Not taking cards is not a big issue for me - small companies get penalised with bank charges of up to 4.5% by merchants for card transactions so it’s understandable if you are taking up to 30% of their margin that they are reluctant or won’t take cards It boils down to “what do you want”..? Is it tech support..? Installation assistance..? Warranty..? The Nu-lok online resources are very good and it’s a system I would consider with a slate roof as it has a lot of plus points. Slate roofing hasn’t moved on in generations so anything “new” will be viewed with suspicion by many and from experience the roofing trade is one that is still stuck in the 1800’s...

I’d want that lot fixed by the architect and without a bill for the work ... it’s laziness and smacks of a standard set of annotations that are used regardless of what has been drawn.

Don’t.. just don’t .... the grit will end up in the top coat on the trowel and it will swirl like a biatch... PVA 5:1, big brush and wet it then skim on wet ...

Just be careful with this that you can return any overage to the BM for credit as I expect they will do the standard +10% wastage that means you may have up to 2 packs left over on an average build. You could end up stuck with those if it’s a non-stock item. Estimating services tend to measure through all openings and then add a bit - careful cutting means you can usually use pieces for ends and openings and self builders are a bit more careful with re-use. I have a rule that anything over a half block is stacked for cutting and re-use as otherwise it’s just straight in the skip.

C’mon @Nickfromwales read the whole thread ...? 100mm between joists, 25mm over and then 35mm screed lots of insulation but very little strength in the screed

Osmo Polyx would work and can be tinted.

Near passive with low heat input requirements can cope with 200mm centres - houses such as @JSHarris and @TerryE for example. Lower insulation values and higher losses mean more heat required and as the input is w/m2 then basically you have to up the wattage - this is either done by making there be more pipe per square metre or changing the delta between the flow temp and room temperature. The downside of this is once you have set the pipe centres the flow temperature is the only thing you can control so to get more heat out you have to increase the temperature. 35mm screed is very thin, especially on a joist based floor and is likely to crack so I would want to go thicker and lose the 25mm of Kingspan above the floor.

So if you copy and paste it does it in the background and converts the url to a clickable url. The forum software is configured to ignore html to stop various things such as sql injection and other use of html control characters - it used to be an option but I think in V4.x they made it part of the base configuration.

URL tags don’t work - you need to use the Insert Link on the editor.

Download loopcad (free for 30 days) and model the rooms and the loops. You won’t get them tight enough to do some of those loops. Also, 200mm is very wide and 35mm is very thin for a standard build house. You would be better with 150 or 100 and run at much lower temperature.

Wilo are virtually silent - the new ones also have a plastic pump body on some that makes them very light and subsequently doesn’t introduce a ferrous metal into the system.

The two or three samples I had were virtually identical as they probably came off the same production line. Twinwall extrusion of polyethylene isn’t that complex but does need a different type of machine head so it’s limited to a few manufacturers. The only difference seemed to be in the external corrugation profile, with one being slightly squarer in profile than the other but this wouldn’t affect anything I can see. In terms of hygiene and “anti static” coatings, the Inner surface on this type of duct is virtually sterile when produced but the looping mechanism induces some amount of static due to the nature of the product so dust will be attracted to the inner surfaces. From what I can work out, some suppliers use an anti static coating which is just a silicone based spray - just as quick to do your own and use a pompom on a bit of string as per @JSHarris and coat it in any of the silicone furniture polishes.

If the big one isn’t a decent brand broken in Plasterer’s trowel then walk away... you will never get a good finish with a cheap trowel. Seriously - get someone to do it ..! Will take you twice as long and cost more if you need someone to get it fixed.

30 degree pitch gives a 1.45m ridge at 5m span, so 2.9m rafters needed. 8x2 Purlin more than adequate at that span although you won’t get 6.4m lengths so going to 6x2 rafters would eliminate the need anyway. I would create a 6x4 front, centre and rear truss using 6x2 doubled up and then just use cut rafters onto a 4x3 wall plate and a 8x2 ridge board. The middle truss can support the ridge beam and also provide the start of any storage however you will struggle with the width on storage as 5m will need a 6x2 joist and 400 centres to stop any sagging. Better to invest in some decent boltless shelving ..?

Welcome ..! Someone else who uses Visio for plans .. ?

I take it you’ve bought the new trowel too then ..??

Doesn’t look centered to me - wonder if it’s more like a bit of stainless used as a conduit ..?!

We have 1400 members ... if they all give 20p he will have enough for a plasterer and enough left over for an hour with a therapist to get over the obsession with moving shower heads....

How do you do first floor ..?? Can’t prop from the ground.

Let me know if you can’t find it and I’ll see if it’s available as a spare ..

Once it’s bonded between layers of adhesive and tile it’s going nowhere ..! Looks like the same stuff they make the plaster-in frame sealing membrane from.

First four courses have to be laser perfect in plumb as if they aren’t you can’t easily correct an issue. Easier with wider blocks - thin joint originally was designed for 215mm blocks - as you can get a level across them too. It’s openings you struggle at as either you need to switch back to commons and splits for lintels or your bricks and blocks don’t match up. You may also end up going with twin lintels too as with nothing under the front edge they will have a tendency to twist.

You need a minimum volume per minutes - any extractor that meets that is fine and tbh heat rises so that helps the extractors anyway. I fitted one using 4 100mm ducts around an island and it works fine - big inline fan in a utility ceiling and it basically pulls air from all around the island and the hob (electric) and works well. Lots of smoke from a frying pan still causes problems but that’s the same with any extractor.

As long as you return the cuttings to the land then it’s not an issue. Work should be done to best practices and no damage caused that will incur further injury to the tree but I would just crack on ... And she can’t complain as the tree isn’t on her land, she told you that herself ....