PeterW

It probably has a paper core heat exchanger that will be past it’s best. They won’t be cheap either and they are basically 50% of the unit

That’s not bad stuff but does need a proper coat over the top. The Super Leytex is good for final finish.

Depends on the paint I use Super Leytex which can go over fresh plaster - so stuff that is 4-5 days old. Very good coverage and not a bad price. You don’t need a mist coat with it either.

I would want to stick a power flush unit onto it and run it through until it was crystal clear ... and a new Wilo BUT I wonder if it’s an older type pump so you may have some fun replacing that as most new ERP pumps self regulate.

Any chance you can get the developer to do it for you ..??

Sorry, missed that. Just put it under the OSB and use either a floating floor or use something like a spreader plate set into the PIR as otherwise you’re building two floors.

Yep - quick plan and they should be fine. How long have they been built ..? Quick trick is to swap the rear roof tiles to the front so the look is the same, and then just put new ones on the rear.

Welcome ..! If it’s a new house on a new development just check : - permitted development wasn’t removed by the council en masse when they approved the development - the developer doesn’t hold an approval covenant for the first x years Other than that it should be PD..!

You don’t need an IC to start the run, just use a rodding eye on the end of the main run and come in on the branches with your flows.

Put the glue on your nail, spray the activator on the false nail and place carefully ...... it will bond pretty much instantly ..!

Was wondering with the 6 bar !!

Navitron do a cheap one that does 1-12 litres which should be fine. I’d still be emailing pictures of that pump to their MD....

Its not 2 part - it’s just an activator in the can. You can use it to accelerate ordinary superglue. The TS stuff is the one I use, normally on offer for less than £5.

If your joists are 150mm then I would drop a few roofing battens down the gap and turn them across the joists to catch the insulation onto. Then as @JSHarris says, foam down the sides to hold it tight and stop and convection currents. Are you adding UFH to the mix too ..?

Superglue is best kept in the fridge.... and I buy the packs from Poundland that have 5 small vials in them and chuck them after one use. Mitre bond is also cyanoacrylate (ie Superglue) but seems to not clog as much.

Is that on a TS or a combi..??

Not in blue, but can in black however that would be roughly double the price of standard UPVC and would need terminating correctly. It would also be a pig to unroll and get flat - probably have to concrete it in.

Is that including the sewer connection..??

Is that a typo..???!!! I've never seen a £2k shower head !!! Go for Grohe, HansGrohe or one of the big names and you won't go far wrong. May be cheaper to get some flights to Dusseldorf and make a day trip of going to MegaBad and their showroom - seriously considered it as a pair of flights and car hire for the day was about £125..!

They aren't perfectly square ended (neither are most rooms though...) so just take a router to the end to square it up, lay them together and look what you've got to remove. If you have access to a biscuit jointer bit for the router then all good and just use that to create a couple of slots, glue and then plate from below with an offcut of ply screwed and glued to the bottom. Easier than bolts as they need a 20mm deep housing and that leaves the worktop quite thin.

Is this private or council BCO..?? The problem you have is that if you get a different inspector then you can get real issues with interpretation of the regs - just ask @curlewhouse or read the blog. I am also a bit concerned that as this is your first build you are putting a lot of trust in this “wise owl” builder who is advising you. I would question : - do you have a contract with him..? - what is his remit ..? - does he carry PI insurance ..? Builds rarely go smoothly and you are placing a lot of trust in people with whom you have no contractual relationship with if things go wrong. For example if the drains are too high at the sewer connection, your only option is to dig out the underground pipework and start again. Worst case is you have to put a pump in as you can’t make $h!t flow up hill on its own. Who pays for that ..?? Wise owl said it was ok, but who checked ..? Who put them in ..? BCO may want 1:40 not 1:80, but without plans to pre-approve and get answered then you are in no mans land and in a world of (expensive) pain. You’ve got a dig date and a concrete pour booked but not a fully signed off set of BRegs plans ..? What if the plans throw up something that cannot be built (it happens, just ask @Hecateh about her balcony...) so you need to change it. It cost a little time and £100-200 to get changes made on paper, digging our drains and sorting cast foundations could cost you thousands.

That won’t pass regs then as you are required to have the drainage plan drawn as they need to pass it to the sewage provider. I would get that sorted - inverts are needed to make sure it’s right before you start ..!!

10m doesn’t exist in 110mm uPVC It needs supporting either on brick or block piers or supported from under the floor so you need that detail sorted before the beams go on if you are having beam and block. Is it the best route to go under the floor - what is on the BRegs drainage plan..??

6m is the max but may be on special order as 3m is the norm these days. 6m is also a pig to get at the right fall as you can easily get 150mm flex in a length if you pick it up in the middle.

I’ve been looking at micro inverters as the whole installation ends up outside which seems to be of benefit as there is nothing other than an AC isolator and connection indoors. This would be a pure DIY install and no FiT so RoI is more important than anything else.