PeterW

Nitrile can be used anywhere. It’s 2/3rd the thickness of Poly for the same uValue

Nope it is one of the best polys, some of the others are rubbish. If you can stretch to it then go for a nitrile rubber insulation such as InsulTube or Armaflex.

Buy a cheap touring caravan. Work in comfort, kettle and toilet on hand.

+1 to this - sister up the joist on the other side with D4 and screws.

I wouldn’t expect a crack to appear on a corner below a window without checking further below.

Yes built cones of acoustic foam into the ceiling plenums with varied results

Why offsite..? Container is safer and easier. Appliances don’t like cold and damp, so consider one of the self store units but watch out you don’t spend more on storage than you save on early purchases. Don’t do it - their kit, their problem. Your insurers won’t accept it anyway as it’s not yours (unless you classed it as hired plant cover)

Surely just buying a second PW would have been easier ..??

Can’t happen - there are min 2 NRVs between the main and the house (meter and DCV on inlet). The issue is with low pressure hot being displaced by high pressure cold, and also fecal coliform entering the cold supply when flow stops. There is also a syphon element when a higher pressure outlet is opened and draws on a lower - again, proper design stops this.

Ok but you need to understand the classes of waste water - toilets / outside / shower/ bath / basin / kitchen is pretty much the water regs treat domestic water with the controls required. You can add to it but a properly designed system doesn’t need it.

What’s below the tiles in the picture ..? Bay window or another wondow or door ..??

Is there a non return valve after the softener before the accumulator ..?

Probably drainage from an undercroft so filling them in is a bad idea. They should all drain to an open area.

Asking a boiler manufacturer their opinion on heating is akin to asking an alcoholic about his favourite drink …. Of course they said LPG, and didn’t bother advising that increasing your cavity width by 50mm would more than halve your space energy requirements. IR is classed as direct electric - your built SAP score with LPG and IR is going to be really challenging …

Triple is standard spec on things we do now, paid for itself when it was sunny and 38°C outside and you could stand in front of the windows and not get fried !!! Plan everything… draw it, rip it up, draw it out on the beach or a bit grass area (or the plot if possible and make batten frames for the windows..) and decide where everything is and then don’t move anything. It’s hard to do that but means you don’t get nasty surprise bills for amendments.

There is no requirement and no need to do backflow protection on a kitchen sink supply. Furthermore, if the plumber has correctly installed the control group on the UVC and used the balanced cold for all outlets then the pressure differential that could cause this (ie the old hot cistern supply, cold mains supply) cannot occur. Also, feeding the WCs from before the control group means that a WC flush affects control group pressure equally so you don’t get the fluctuation in hot/cold balance. All of that above is industry good practice and should be done as a matter of course, yet I still see plumbers saying “that’s not how we’ve done it before….”

Never been asked and doubt they care. Don’t forget that the WRAS shower requirements only apply to bathroom waste water not kitchen sinks.

Shop vac - the sort with the 100mm hose will do it.

Yes because the Type C is purely that it has a higher peak curve so when a motor kicks in then the device won’t trip. Most inverter drives don’t actually need it but the MIs still seem to reference them.

No as long as there is a vent stack higher than the water level in the highest WC

Not only building control but part of the Manufacturers Instructions for installation that all pipe work is insulated.

Have you looked at the difference between a C and an A rated cylinder in terms of losses ..?? Most older cylinders are G rated - that’s the ones from pre-2010 which tbh had 40-50mm of insulation on them. The ErP changes introduced in 2017 gave the manufacturers the standards to work to but it’s less than the losses from uninsulated pipework by a long way. You also have to compare like to like - a 90 litre tank has an easier time getting an A than a 300 litre tank due to surface area. In reality, the difference between A and C is around 21w loss per hour at 68°C constant on £300 litres so about £50 on direct electric or £33 on gas. The cost differential between an A and a C tank is around £400, so 14 year payback. £400 buys a lot of pipe insulation wifi will have much more impact on heat loss than any A rated tank.

@Simon R like the paving layout. Did you just lay direct onto the compacted hardcore ..?? And what did you grout with ..?

care to share as Wickes on the face of it are 15% cheaper than Tradepoint (B&Q) so are they price matching ..?

Twin wall being used for what ..? Connection to underground soakaways ..? 63mm OD twin wall is 50/51mm ID so you would have to use something like a spigot adapter however it will significantly reduce flow rates so it needs proper design. https://pbs-limited.co.uk/product/68mm-50mm-reducer-adaptor/