PeterW

Make your own mind up ... https://uk.trustpilot.com/review/soak.com And there are other review sites which also support the fact they ask you to remove bad reviews if you want warranty or replacements....

I bought a new old stock rebadged Mitusbishi unit from the now defunct Ice Energy and it was £600 delivered. Been on for the past 10 months and no issues so far

need to check but I’m sure it’s somewhere between £2.25 and £3.10 per block laid in Spons, or £22.50 to £31.00 per square metre. Average house has about 200sqm of external facing so you’re at £4,500 to £6,200 or thereabouts. Not that bad in the big scheme of things.

no... and no... fluid dynamics says your pressure would be appalling doing that. Find the meter, get a new dedicated connection, and do it properly so you have no problems.

where is the meter..?? Some of the field supplies installed have a restricter fitted at the meter end to stop huge amounts of water leaking if the pipe is damaged. You would be much better getting a new connection at that point and running it in a single new supply pipe - you will have control then as nothing worse than a shower slowing to a dribble just because Bessie the cow decided to step into the trough and bust open the ball valve ....

I did an island and used a Stihl saw after making sure all the Inside doors were sealed and the windows were wide open ..!! Three parallel cuts about 2” apart and 4” deep then used a bolster to crack the sections out. Also used 32mm waste pipe as duct and hot water to the island too.

Yep very much so..! They are bonded together with glue but still plenty of holes.

Depends - on the last mediums I think I paid 93p ex VAT.

So use it as a path across the lawn..?? You need to slow it or stop it before it gets the house or build a big French drain around the property.

Put a diagonal field drain in. Dig a trench about 12” wide and 24” deep, you can put a pipe in the bottom if you want but don’t make it parallel to the slope, make it run down the hill slightly. Then back fill it with 20mm coarse gravel to the top. Don’t worry if it starts to grow with grass, just try to keep some of it clear. It will stop a lot of water.

if the water main is on your land then you’re in a very good place as you can basically dig the whole lot yourself.

It’s constructive criticism .... based on a solid understanding of previous performance ..!

Both.... you have to plan for both of those, and tbh your issue is when the water reaches the top of the gutter it will find the shortest route to the ground and that could be via your cavity wall.

Per block sorry..!! So £12/m ish

£1-1.20 laid on the cost of the block and mortar round here

It is very advisable. Water weighs a lot, we did a commercial job with hidden gutters and on a 30m building, we worked out the hidden gutters held 5.7 tonnes of water between them before they overflowed ...

If it’s on your own land you can dig your own and do it for the price of the pipe and a digger. If you’re into the roads, it gets pricey as road opening, traffic management etc doesn’t come cheap.

You could use a concrete slab on edge to hold back that hedge - cheap and cheerful

I think you should have the posts CNC Lathe turned from composite, and then have 3D metal deposition brackets made whilst setting it onto a series of hand welded double helical piles ... The roof should be cedar shingles - they take about 15 years to grow, so if you sow them this autumn you should be able to harvest by the time you’re ready to get the roof on ....

Also get yourself a pack of these. https://www.screwfix.com/p/bosch-multipurpose-drill-bit-set-4pcs/95958 No other drill bits required ..!!

Yep, nice small lightweight drill that can do most stuff.

so... if you don’t trust him, have you checked the calculations with someone else ..?? I have to say, looking at the plans you posted on the other thread, those steels seem to be less than I would expect to be used. You also need to ensure the supporting wall (7N to be rebuilt approx 1.5m from the end of that beam and perpendicular to it) will be integral to the strength of the beam. Assuming the welded flange in your first picture is the only pickup point for this beam and will be above a set of bifolds and this beam you’re installing is also talking the load of another coming in to it at the corner, I would suggest you may want to get a 2nd engineer to review this for peace of mind.

Watch that one... when you go to get a formal address, you may well find they use the principle elevation and the road it faces. Had significant issues with this before !!

Right, the answer is do nothing currently. When they build the founds up, and backfill the inside with stone and insulation then concrete, it will cover the exposed area. This is normal when working on old properties and I’ve seen much much worse ..!! Let them get the founds blockwork in, let’s get this floor level sorted, and then you’re flying.

Apologies - this is the joy of typing on an iPhone and letting it autocorrect !! Have now corrected, and also added the right loadings..!