PeterW

Yes - use instead of dot and dab and it’s great for surfaces such as wood and tape and that sort of thing

Use Boardfix foam

Lightning conductors have to be installed by specialist contractors and the installation certified. Not something that I’d be trying myself as the conductors they used on the last big curved steel roof we did has one at each corner and is tested annually.

I would chop the fingers off the person who “cut” (gnawed.?? Hacked..?) the timber first.. then it would be Low Expansion foam, cut flush and shaped and then tape over the lot - decent tape won’t come off.

Why..? Get a circular saw with a narrow base plate and cut the full border of the board removing about 20mm of the T&G. Then get a box of 125mm concrete screws and starting in the far corner drill and insert a screw 100mm from each corner and space 400mm apart. Measure 400mm down and repeat the line but stagger it. Now add a layer of 4mm ply over the top, glued and screwed to the T&G. Now you can skim the lot and lay the LVT.

Run the kitchen in a diagonal straight to the bottom left IC - gives you a rodding point and a straight flow. Also need to fix the dogleg in the utility chamber flow - move the lower right chamber across the front of the house so it’s a 90° intercept.

Feck off pie boy… @Thorfun they are better than some so should be fine

Not the drop I’m concerned about @Nickfromwales it is the cap on the outside of the elbow which will become a turd catcher and block … look again at the other angle

Sorry but that needs to come out… you cannot use an access elbow on a drop - it will fill full of $h!te and and block in a week. Must be a long 90° bend (87.5° to be precise) and you also need to restrain the elbow above it from moving …

If they are old imperials then it may be worth splitting them properly and cleaning them and selling them - they go for min £1 each on Facebook and other places. 108sqm is around 6,000 bricks or around 15 packs - that’s not a bad delivery so you should be able to chase a decent deal with a BM. Huws Gray sometimes also have some decent deals - you can get down to £350/thou or less if you don’t need to perfect match a house or similar

@jayc89how tall is this wall..??! £300sqm for a brick wall seems to assume an expensive brick as there are 104/m in a solid bond plus mortar and labour - what is the brick currently and could you re-use them ..?

Agree but don’t forget you need to factor in energy pricing so a CoP of of 7 on peak electricity is around 5.2p/kWh and gas is 11.5p/kWh so the 7 vs 0.8 has to be done at cost per kWh output to get the proper comparison. But as @JohnMo said - plumber is talking tosh …

Find a decent scrap dealer and weigh it in - I got about 60% of the cost of new lead when I did my last lot. And keep every offcut..!!

Road planings are cheap and make a decent sub base

Pardon ..?? No shortage at all.. sounds like he’s been to the bacon butty morning at the local merchant and they have an offer on Combi’s and he can get £100 Amazon voucher too … (yes, this happens…) Loads available online - Mr Central Heating is one of many suppliers with a lot of stock. Just checked local plumb centre and one or two WB are showing longer lead times but the rest are fine and next day delivery.

Not seen one of those for years !! Is it in a utility or the kitchen .? Only issue you may have is bricking up the old balanced flue and then finding a narrow boiler that will fit in the gap as they used to be about 18” wide from memory ..?? No issue (as long as the flue meets regs distances) doing a like for like and I would leave well alone, just get the system power flushed and then replace with something similar output (25kW) and hope it lasts the same..!

Two types of network cable - solid copper and CCA (copper coated aluminum). PoE is best on solid copper - just look at the box and it should tell you what it is

Don’t forget an F&E for a solid fuel appliance must be either galvanised steel or copper - it cannot be plastic.

Led panel lights - easy to wire up and lean against a wall and give very little shadowing. Then when you’ve done you can fit them to the ceiling of a garage or shed etc

You can but you need to put a neutraliser in the circuit - I’d assumed there would be one already if there is a tank on the current setup as otherwise you end up boiling any tank.

Internal skin won’t be self supporting and you’ll also have the issue that an arch like that needs to have the window shaped into it - otherwise you end up with fillers

Ok just seen the photos - hidden gutter would be better there and just a clean line of slates cut to fit within an inch or so of the stonework

Got a photo ..? This sounds like it would be better done with a hidden gutter below the slates and cut into the stonework.

@LHall nothing stopping you pulling up the old floor and then laying netting between the joists and stapling on top and then suspending 200mm of loft type rockwool between the joists. Close it all off with a vapour barrier and then screw the new T&G boards over the top and glue all the joints. Using 22mm T&G chipboard you may get it level enough to only need 3.6mm ply glued to the top but let the floor fitter decide that.

Nothing in U.K. regs about having to upgrade to sell if it’s a standard septic with a leach field or similar. I would be looking at elsewhere on the plot and putting in a parallel system and moving the drains over with plenty of space for further development. One word of caution though - there are a lot of things you can’t put into a treatment plant system ….. may want to discuss with the ladies of the house before you make any decision ….