PeterW

Back to the hot return port on the tank - usually about 250mm down from the top

Yes although I tend to use a copper stub and then use a straight connector or an elbow

It’s ok to have some bits on them - they will be fine

Yep just leave a small ish gap so it doesn’t touch the felt. But would be using Rockwool everywhere including in then brick cavity. If the whole house is twin skin brick (and not solid) you can get a grant to get blown in insulation. Will only cost you £2/300 I expect to have the whole house done.

Before he closes it up, get some insulation stuffed in that void to the side of the steps. Cheapo rockwool will do.

Doesn’t matter - those faces won’t be seen. I wouldn’t jet wash old bricks - get a decent nylon scrubbing brush and put them on the ground with the face you are going to see uppermost. Bucket of hot soapy water and give them a good scrub - bit of bleach in the water will get the green off but nothing more needed. You won’t see anything other than one face so do the best you can on the one you will see.

@joe90 I agree however I’m looking at cost and also where that is located.

Burlington are solid brass but have some nice touches such as constant flow restrictors as standard. They are not cheap ...

Ok ... make all the windows the same size - it will look better and also give more symmetry and potentially save cost. get rid of the utility door - you will never use it. You will use the front door or the patio doors. move the downstairs toilet into the end of the utility off study / bed 5. Will make it more useable as bedroom and also look at how you would add a shower to it. This will open up the hallway and make more of a feature. keep the bathroom and en-suite and change those to have velux windows. Nice detail and cleans that back wall up from having 2 small windows. turn the stairs 90 degrees anti clockwise so they face the front door - make them a feature you will struggle to do this with a main contractor at £220k - plenty of ways to save money but they mean making the place smaller.

Surprisingly, a managed lift isn’t that expensive. It’s around a 2 hour job by the looks of it and the pieces aren’t that heavy or large, so it would be within the reach of a 10 tonner so you could be talking £1.5-2k for that.

That’s why the regs changed and insisted on the CWS tank having a cover on it ..... So you’re not cleaning your teeth with that ...

Yeh that’s a Vado brand.

If you are using cavity walls then use the heaviest block possible and also make sure every joint including the perp ends are fully mortared. Sound gets through the tiniest gap, and you need to make sure that you get mass in the walls. What cavity can you afford to leave ..?

Try Wickes and also sign up for a trade card.

Do you mean the Axbridge pattern by Booth&Co/Vado..? Vado is reasonably good but expensive for what it is. @Nickfromwales got a view ..?

Wood will warp in a humid environment - decent bathroom furniture is moisture resistant MDF which is more stable.

Good point @vivienz @pocster you probably want to measure them correctly and agree the size in writing before you order, just in case .... ?

Reolink do one that is 4G, also can buy an add on solar panel https://m.reolink.com/product/reolink-go/?gclid=Cj0KCQiAiNnuBRD3ARIsAM8KmluP00Ofcfnd3Op2cPT-nccpw01n1vmDu2VVDp6g9bjk40SSkWlcwd0aAj51EALw_wcB Also some on eBay a bit cheaper https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F123772189123

You won’t get the statutory warranty under the Consumer Rights Act, and will have limited recourse to the manufacturer (you will need to go via who ever bought them for you)

yep ... and the U401 which is their UFH version is a cool £499... A 3Kw Willis is ... £49.99?

That hackster link gives me the heebee jeebies..!!! They have mains, LV and logic level components all mixed together and no logical separation. That should all be on different bars and at least segregated correctly.

Mixing and matching is done with care .. you are better off keeping all materials from one supplier of one type - for example match a white acrylic bath to a basin and WC pan from another supplier, but don’t mix porcelain from different suppliers as you may find different shades of “white”

So that’s a whole new one on me ..... board on tile adhesive ..??! get that lot up, use a floor scraper and then mop over it with a 20% cheap bleach solution and let it dry. Then glue and screw down 9mm ply as a minimum and use latex based self leveling compound to finish it off.

Agree however that’s on power connections - this is ModBUS so will be 3.3/5v and mA connections which are unlikely to cause a disconnection of this type. Assuming it is a 2 wire connection then just connecting and reconnecting should clear that.

It was working before though ..? If it has worked then unlikely to be a wire as it wouldn’t have worked previously as you said. It is more likely the BUS card has developed a fault and it cannot talk to the controller. It’s one reason I don’t like the complex units as there is a lot of industrial ModBUS level stuff going on that is overkill for what should be a fairly simple set of connections.