PeterW

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I would save your money - and for hedges I would pay someone..! They only really need doing once or twice a year at most and by the time you have bought decent hedge trimmers, you'll have paid for 4-5 years of hedge trimming. Trees are a different matter, consider a pole saw such as a Silky Forester which is more than adequate for ground trimming. Anything outside the height limit on one of these is probably better left to a professional.

To answer the original question... Leave at least 2 full tile widths / min one full rafter gap to any verge detail to ensure you don't create issues with battens and small cuts of tiles Both GSE and EasyRoof both have velux panels as standard in their systems

Try Huws Gray as they have some good deals. https://www.huwsgray.co.uk/shop/ Perversely it can sometimes be cheaper to buy more than you need, especially if you have space to store them as a lorry load (22 packs) can be cheaper than a part load.

Ok so use copper within 1m of the Willis just for ease. If you don’t want to do compression joints then use these as they are just as quick but can be de-mounted unlike the Sprint version ... you will also need a decent copper in pipe slice - this will last you a lifetime. Expansion vessel should be 15 litres, it’s not a stored system so don’t need to be looking at over pressure valves but I would add a pressure gauge and a fill loop and reduce the pressure in the expansion vessel to 1.5 bar as they are pre-charged at 3 bar. Rest looks fine - post up some pics and we can see where to help.

No it’s non standard can you give an idea of costs quoted ..??

OK so reduce your risk. As long as the pour is continually reinforced to spec, there is little to go wrong if you’re pouring 3 blocks high at a time. That’s well within the scope of a self builder and a concrete pump isn’t expensive to hire. If you plan cleverly - such as looking at where door frames are etc to create a natural break in walls - then you could pour two sides of the house at differing times. One could be a “slow but steady” where the wall is near the road, and the other could be the less risky sides done in 2 or 3 bigger pours. I don’t think you’ll get it past a structural engineer or building control. There is nothing binding them together, no way of quality assuring or getting consistent results. I for one would not stand anywhere near a free standing wall of those at 300mm wide more than a metre or so high as they look dangerous. How would you do things like intermediate floors ..?? I also doubt you could lay 2-300 of those in 2 days even with a Telehandler as they are not something you can just slam into place - what are you going to do for any gaps for example...??

Have you got a spare length of soil..?? I’d put it into that branch and see if you can add a bit more weight to the blockage by adding a bucket of water slowly, but watch for the level in the pan also. Pair of rubber mallets or similar would be my first call just to find where the blockage is.

Self leveling compound just poured into the gaps.

Screws will do straight through the sides into the ribs.

I’d check if it’s the elbow as it turns to drop into the vertical. Judicious use of a rubber mallet bouncing it gently along the sides of the pipes upstairs will give a good indication of where it’s blocked as the sound will change.

Most mortgage companies require a valid insurance policy as it’s effectively their money and their asset you are building.

You could make a pair of panels - first outer one between the steels and weld tabs to take the panel fixings and then put the weather screen over the top of that, and then build a full insulated panel inside those. It would give you a continuous insulation layer inside and remove the cold bridges.

Assume you’ve tried the bios reset by taking out the RTC battery ..? It’s pretty standard on old Compaq stuff https://dewagdkasl.wordpress.com/2010/06/03/how-to-reset-the-bios-password-on-a-compaq-evo-n620c/

Welcome I would go for a slightly wider raft and thicken the edges to 300mm x 450mm wide and tie this to a 150mm overall slab reinforced with A142 mesh - the quickest way to do this is just clear the whole area to 400mm, lay a full 100mm of MOT1 and compact well and then use 100mm EPS to create the thinner section in the centre. It will also keep your slab slightly warmer...

Where do you plan to put all the insulation in this sort of construction ..? And what is the benefit ..? A decent team would have this sort of structure up in standard block in no time.

yep that’s the old 2006 version of the site guide and even the 2020 has it, but that’s the NHBC standard and not the building regs which is why I’m wondering why BCO is interested unless they are NHBC BC Inspectors ..?? I know someone who used them and the guy was very inflexible on anything that wasn’t done the NHBC way. https://nhbc-standards-beta.co.uk/2020/6-superstructure-excluding-roofs/6-4-timber-and-concrete-upper-floors/6-4-19-floor-decking/

This is fine for TF but traditional blockwork doesn’t have the membranes.

So air is normally lost around poorly sealed joist ends into walls and cavities, but I’m struggling to work out which bit of the Building Regs is the issue when it comes to a continuous gap..? I know there are manufacturers installation guides about installing flooring but can’t find anything in the Regs.

I’m pretty sure the robust detail for Party walls ensures that the joists run parallel to the walls and it perpendicular as you would get sound transfer into the blockwork from the joists in any instance. I’m not convinced by the expansion gap theory either given the material we are talking about (wood / chipboard) has such an incredibly low coefficient of expansion that you could get away with a 1-2mm gap in any event. For airtightness we seal the skirtings to the walls and floors too so this is a further block to the transfer of sound (which is usually via gaps rather than resonance.)

Yes if the rest of the house is on rads. UFH won’t cut it if it’s the only room and you’ll just be heating the ground.

yes - they can’t self ignite if damaged.

If this is under a tiled floor then consider an electric element system but it will only work as tile warming not heating.

Ok so how much height have you got to play with ..? This will dictate your insulation options.

The only way to retrofit is to put “some” insulation in or take the floor out and start again, otherwise it’s just heating the ground below. Wunda do an overlay system which is about 30mm thick but the losses will be eye watering.