PeterW

Sorry did we find out how far this willow is from the house ..? Also - if you’re on piles today then it’s for a reason.. I would be more concerned with this first

How will it fail ..? It’s not in contact with liquids, it’s not UV exposed so why would it fail..? All the sockets on your underground waste have seals made of the same stuff and we don’t worry about those for 50/60 years..?

You don’t need to solvent weld under there - just put a boss in with a rubber plug and it gives you some wriggle room on the joint. would also suggest running 50mm solvent to the island and a Y branch in the pipe just before a slow elbow and then put a screw cap on the branch so you can always rod from that end.

Get rid of the bend ..! Go straight to the corner, do not pass Go and do not collect £200…. Remove the brown fitting that looks like a standard coupling and replace with a proper boss - you have the issue that the socket is too high and you may need to dig some of the concrete out around it as that will have a double layer of fitting / pipe within it and you cannot solvent weld to poly. What is the pipe leading into the top..? Staying or going ..??

All the above sell 100m reels

Toolstation is cheaper (just) and CEF tend to be decent for those sorts of quantities. Screwfix sell Prysmian cable which is about £2/100m more expensive.

Ok so that’s going to be fun to lift then !! If you’re adding rafters externally I assume then you’re using either taper insulation or firrings to give you a slope ..? With a 254 I would get the steel erectors to put the bottom flange flush with the finished joist level and as @Mr Punter said notch out the 15mm and sit the joists and rafters on the bottom flange on the assumption the SEng says it’s ok.

Nope.. Why not consider using one of the insulated beam systems and then make your slab 100mm flowing concrete with the UFH inside it and that’s a finished surface to work from ..?? Jetfloor is one, think Tetris is another ..?

Don’t forget that Universal Beams are not truly square inside so your inner flange dimension and outer dimension are different which can cause problems when blocking out. That is a monster - are you sure that’s the right dimensions..??

I’d do that from a cherry picker - easy job. I would check though that the corbel course isn’t the lead soaker course too - if so I would want to keep the course above and then cap with a mix with a waterproof agent in the cement and also fit a vent pot.

Based on ..? I’ve seen much worse from other countries - ever applied for a US Visa for example ..? The GDS standard is pretty good for standardisation - the issue is the back end systems were never invested in and some date back 20 years..! DCC is privately owned - it may be the link to CAB isn’t correct as it was working and looks like something may have changed

Bed 1 should be it’s own zone / loop ES should be it’s own zone / loop Zone 6 needs to be hallway only not 10% of the kitchen The big open plan needs sorting once the others are done - but it’s a single zone for TS purposes. I would even push them to 120m loops Pipework needs coming out from under the baths and the WCs Manifold is in an odd place - is it possible to move ..?

No - for full Tx/Rx you only need 2 pairs connected, usually 1&2 and 3&6. The remainder are available to PoE etc Useful guide here https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/support/articles/000007187/ethernet-products.htm Not odd - you need to read the numbers carefully as they don’t go 1-8 on the back of a socket, the PIN numbers are on the sticker so you need to match them to the panel.

You can’t use a circulator power in this calculation as you are talking constant volume scenario and you would need a displacement pump to accurately understand the dynamic flow pressure within the loops. Loop pressure or static pressure is also irrelevant in this scenario - it is there to remove air from the system and fluctuates with temperature so again isn’t a constant. Your other issue is then when you use zoning or a loop reaches temperature that you will have a problem that your volume now changes as the loop is removed from the system - all these are reasons open plate circulators are used and not displacement pumps in heating systems.

Sorry your issue isn’t Building Control it will be planning - whilst you can argue it is portable and moveable, planning may see it having a permanent train connection as a permanent structure. Be very careful how you manage that one..!

Super Leytex paint - its what its designed for.

Yes - this also locks you to the standard on the day you get approval (with some very minor exceptions) so also allows you to plan accordingly. Depending on the work you need to do - substantive access works such as driveways which are marked on plans also count. That is the method some developers use in creating the site access, roadway and sewage provision then stop. It is slightly more risky of the access is not marked on plan as part of the approved plans.

I tend to duct them in which is the correct practice or a short length can be wrapped in cheap foam pipe insulation and buried so its not in direct contact with concrete.

Doubt it is copper underground - start digging and follow the pipe then replace with 20 or 25mm MDPE especially under a slab. Do not bury copper in concrete !

there is a 200mm zone below any WC connection that you cannot branch into.

no as you’ll lose solids again on the drop. I meant can you go further away from the basement exit point with the vertical stack ..? Or is it fixed ..? So as per your right drawing but straight up from the pair of 45’s

If the WC goes direct into the stub itself you may have a problem with distances to the entries for sinks and showers. Have you got a copy of the regs..?

Yep @ProDave is right and that should have an elbow on it - if you can't get a rest bend then use a pair of 45° bends with a short section of pipe between. I would bring the horizontal tee closer to the wall and then run the stack further out and into the back of it. Where does the WC plumb in on that boss tee..? How close to the boss..?

No .. or not under the gas supply regs as far as I am aware. You may have to pay to have the pipe excavated and capped at the tee but it is a standard works (look up removal of gas meter) and they have an obligation to comply. You could ask a private contractor to do this such as Crown Utilities - not sure if they do work north of the border though.

28 days is recommended