PeterW

Yep but I would use the 300mm one as it gives you more to play with.

Toolstation - cheap as chips and does bend ..! Stop worrying and JFDI..

Sorry !! Both known as DPM round here - sheet and roll ..! I mean roll - get a cheap 12” roll and it will bend over the edge no problem. Just fit your trim board and cut the excess off.

What @Onoff said and drew is how I would do it. I would do a full deck of OSB below the 3x2 if possible to stop stuff trying to burrow into your insulation. Then I would do exactly what was suggested or staple the DPM on the top surface, staple and then wrap down over the edge of the OSB and staple again - Frame will trap the DPM and then a trim piece over the lot will tidy it up.

It’s not soda crystals, it’s bicarbonate of soda ..!! Soda crystals will cause you some serious issues if you get them on wet skin or eyes .!!

this is what I considered - just a solenoid valve that triggered for 5 minutes then locked out but also an indicator light that was reset manually to ensure it didn’t run constantly without being noticed. I’m thinking one of the oil tank sensor clones for the level sensor as it should work pretty well.

Any Grid Switch system - make your own combinations.

So no real prospect of dropping them so that’s a climbing and roping job - depends on location but £12-1500 as it is probably 2 days work if they have to avoid the rest.

Welcome Is this a pipe to his cesspit or a pipe to a leach field or overflow ..? best way would be to replace it properly with a new pipe and encase that in concrete and then build up a new driveway over that with layers of compacted hardcore. I’m assuming he has some sort of easement over the land..?? Does it have anything about him entering to maintain the pipe work ..??

Short pile roller and eggshell paint and it will be fine.

8 or 10mm 2 hinges put less stress on the glass

Yes and you’ll find it’s cheaper. Decent hinges can be had for £15 each, then just a panel the size you want.

Just on the BT boxes, have they switched off the BT OpenZone hotspot by default yet ..?? It used to be a setting in the modem where you basically broadcast an open hotspot to anyone who has a BT account to use for their phone. All legit but it does share your bandwidth on the wire and I know a few people who disabled it and found their speeds improved.

Which way does the flow go..???

I’d get them dipped. Caustic strip will remove that.

Like a few others say - 8” stringers and 6” steps, just screwed with 80mm screws both sides. Scrap board as a landing and concrete screwed to the wall. Was there for about 18 months and made life so much easier. Think we even sanded the handrails ....

cut a piece of solvent pipe about an inch long. split the back and take 10mm out using a multi-tool or hacksaw. Scrub the inside with sandpaper, same on the pipe and a quick spread of glue over the joint and clip the repair over - it will spring on and try and hold itself on anyway, glue is there to seal the hole

Yes - so the door comes down onto the edge of the rubber ramp

You may need it for fire reasons - continue with getting the ceiling skimmed.

You'll need to edge that with timber but it should work fine. If it is solidly supported by insulation then you could get away with 9mm OSB Where are you introducing 2 layers of 18mm OSB..???

Sorry where is the 2x18 OSB..? And are you talking internally lining the cabin...?

OK they aren't contact points - they are strengthening in the EPS. The BBA Cert states you should use opposing walls for ventilation 8.2 To help minimise the risk of condensation, the void space beneath the lowest point of the floor construction should be at least 150 mm high, with provision for adequate through-ventilation in the form of ventilation openings provided in two opposing external walls. The ventilation openings should be sized at not less than 1500 mm2·m ̄1 run of external wall or 500 mm2·m ̄2 of floor area, whichever is greater. Where pipes are used to carry ventilating air, these should be at least 100 mm diameter.

Noggins will not fix this - sounds like the strongback has been missed from the floor joists (assuming metal web) or the joists themselves are not installed correctly. I would be taking ceilings down, not floors up, as the floors should be glued or bonded to the joists as they form part of the structure.

Sorry back to my point, why are you asking this not the structural engineer..?? Can you post your ground floor plans and indicate the direction of the floor slabs..?

OK so what is the SEng/Floor designers detail for this..? It looks like you're trying to design where there should be standard detail or engineers details Why can't you put the vents in the sides where there is no point load from the floor slabs as I assume they are all the same orientation..?