PeterW

Put plastic over them - if there is a drip from above the plastic will catch it

Vented or unvented..? And is it really connected as a combi would indicate not. I have seen it where they have combi flow to the kitchen taps but the rest is off the tanks. quickest way to check is go round running hot taps and then see what causes the boiler to fire - should show what is on the tank and what is on the boiler direct

Yeh they can wander … you’re not a contractor and not being paid to do it ..!

Yes they need to be or you can get condensation from them especially when then outside temps are below zero. It only needs to be a thin insulation - I saw it done very successfully with the bubblewrap type stuff with aluminium tape over the joints. Can get it in self adhesive too https://www.toolstation.com/search?q=bubble+insulation

New TS with 2 or 3 immersions - top one is your “boost” then the rest heat lower as required. The Willis won’t work as you have it - you’ll get pull through via the tank.

Your quote or at least the data sheet says external expansion - the excelsior is an odd internal one that I’ve not seen before.

What controller ..? And what actuators ..? Remove the actuator off the misbehaving circuit and see if it’s still warm as it would point to a duff valve

Yes - so what happens when someone cuts or drills into the ground floor stack boxing :.??

@zoothornhow much insulation in the main house loft space ..??

Beads I one thing / you need that pot in the bottom corner too - that’s the glue system that stops the beads becoming a torrent when you drill though the wall

Push an extra 0.5bar in and put the pump to full power and then try

Wiggly bead of cheap gap fill adhesive (Toolstation £1.20 stuff) down the middle then a bead of decorators caulk on the top edge, bead of sealant on the floor. Push the board into place and a couple of brad nails. If it’s on a chipboard floor then you can use blocks to hold it back screwed to the floor. Damp rag to wipe the excess caulk and sealant off and job done

How much pressure in the system ..? And does the pump have an air bleed mode as some do - that’s a decent start. Hindsight being that wonderful thing I spec and fit auto air bleed valves on the top rails normally - keeps them pretty much air free.

I’d be spraying on one of the clear coats that can also be done inside too - sika do a good one

You also lose light every time you add a pane of glass so it needs to be considered especially if you factor in any solar gain in your modelling

Standard BG sales ploy - sorry but save your money in future and get an independent to service it Thats bollocks - room sealed means the intake and exhaust are both from the outside air. Does it have a concentric flue or an old cage flue..? Most will happily run with no external casing so that needs properly checking. Are the indies also saying it’s not ok ..? Or are they just reading the BG condemned notice ..? This makes no sense - if you have to go system then you need an unvented or mains pressure tank to get better pressure. This isn’t that difficult .! You can put a system boiler on a standard tank but the pressure and flow will be lower.

Not sure why you have such a disparity in pricing - what is the current boiler ..??

The hinges and mechanism would be huge - why not split it so either wing is only 1m..? Sealing it could be using a pneumatic seal same as they use on boats.

That’s worrying as my local timber merchant is £45 inc VAT for the same product !

Depends on the zone it is in - as long as it is in an area outside of the shower / bath / basin exclusion areas then it’s fine.

For the sake of £50 and an argument just use fire line boards

EPS bead would be ideal but doubt you would get a supplier for a small area

A PM should not be signing that sort of stuff anyway - your BCO should confirm it meets BRegs but maybe worth paying a structural engineer to validate this sort of stuff if you don’t feel confident.

Any thermostat installed into the tank needs to also include a failsafe trip to meet G3 regs. To use any other stat such as the ones listed you then need to either leave the existing one in and turn it all the way up (ie 90°C) and just use the external one to control the tank, or you bypass the thermostat contacts and leave the failsafe in place.

With no cavity wall and the spacing on those pipes I’m surprised you’ve not got bigger bills ..! Get the insulation in, nothing you can do about spacing now. Also - is that filled with a pug mix or just spacers as the spacers shouldn’t be hanging down between the joists. Basically you need to get them tight up against the boards above, looking at that they are draped.