PeterW

As per what @Onoff has said, go get two buckets of the Coarse ready mix lime mortar from Celtic. Do not use cement as you will be storing up issues ..!! It is probably what is causing the damp problems. The tubs of mortar are only 20kg and is resealable and will mean you can do more patching jobs if needed. Only tools needed to put it into the holes are a pair of gloves and a short length of wood like a bit of broom handle to ram it into the gaps. Lovely stuff to work with but wear safety specs and gloves at all times !!

Have a look and see if Saxton do a blade that fits - I’ve used them for a long time and been impressed, just about to order a replacement set for my table saw that has been used and abused for 12 months and still going strong on the same blade.

No they are square or round sections that fit on top of the tank to allow you to bury it deeper.

From the technical data : Optional risers to increase invert depth are available. So get the bigger digger out ..!!

Watch out for 500 litre UVCs and the width of the tank - additional insulation may mean it won’t get through a standard doorway.

No real depth issue with tanks though - just add a riser to the top access. If they are low you just have an effluent pump to take the water out to the leach field. Ask the builder what the issue is and get him to clearly define it

None of that makes any sense ..?? Running sand ..?? And does he mean a macerator pump..? They are fairly common in pumping stations but why do you need a pumping station as you’re next to a (flat) canal.

Depends what you call crazy prices ..? Shaws make one - they are things of beauty - and RRP at over £1k but you can find them for cheaper. https://shawsofdarwen.com/kitchen-sinks/original/edgworth

TBH on a new house that is well insulated your RHI payments are never going to cover the premium so it’s easier to go the non-MCS route.

RHI premium. Or installers making a fast buck on MCS installs to be clearer. A non-MCS install of the same kit is £6k all in

Wot he said ..!! Two layers of 9mm OSB on the base/slope and one layer screwed and bonded to the wall to make the channel. 45 degree fillet in the bottom of the channel and laid up with at least two layers of 450gm CSM, same as a GRP roof. Then cut and fold a lead flashing over the top edge of the wall side to finish.

I would be doing that in GRP with a Lead cloak flashing.

Thermal store needs nothing if you get the combined one and ensure any heat emitter is below the top level of the header on a combined store. Newark Copper will make them to any size requested with any trappings and coils - ideal for a custom installation such as this. Downside is they do need to be kept hot - 70c is normal - so you are better ensuring there is additional insulation on them.

Issue with a single storey vented system (like for @Jilly ) is the water pressure is determined by the height of the header tank above the cylinder. And this will be low ..! UVC gives mains hot water with no tanks, a combined thermal store can do similar but needs higher temperatures to store the water.

So to get SLC to flow properly, @Nickfromwales advises to get the floor sopping wet and then mix the SLC “like mother’s milk...” so an extra 6-700ml of water per mix. I would get this done now and then leave it 72 hours and start with the dehumidifier

Drain all the hot water from the tank until it’s cold. Start up the heating system and check the temperature cut out operates correctly.

Physically not possible. It would require multiple failure scenarios including the failure of all safety systems on the heat input (gas / oil boiler) or immersions on which there are always two; multiple failures of the control set - bear in mind the expansion of both control block and tank over pressure / over heat would have to fail and they fail to safe; failure of the TMV on the DHW supply mixer. At that point you would be having a monumentally bad day or someone really didn’t like you .... so I would check your life insurance carefully ! ?

100 litre buffer and you will be fine there.

If you’ve never laid bricks then buy one of these. https://bricky.com/building-tools/bricky/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIoMTU7NeL7QIVIe_tCh39GQ7FEAQYASABEgJ9dvD_BwE I was pleasantly surprised how good they are - no use for anything non-standard or reclaims but great for smooth engineering bricks.

250 litre UVC would be fine unless you have space for a larger one..? Would be good as a PV dump so if you can accommodate a 300 or 400 litre UVC then it would be useful. How much floor space has UFH..?

Standard UVC and buffer for me here as three zone S plan and then let the UFH pull from the buffer, towel rads I would put on their own circuit/zone. Make sure both UFH manifolds have the proper blending valves and circulation pumps - 1 per manifold - and don’t be tempted to think one will do. UVC will give decent levels of hot water - how many bathrooms / showers..??

What is the heat source ..? Gas, oil or ASHP ..?

You reclaim the VAT though ..??

Option 3 but get the main run much closer to the island so it’s just a bend and an oblique tee and run it all the way out to the outside wall and put a rodding eye on it. Same with the kitchen sink, out past the wall and a rodding eye. Where is the dishwasher ..?? And the plant room change of direction should be an IC rather than a tee and a rodding eye.

Ok so you’ve ignored what I said, and made your own mind up. However, the following is from a specialist in this area : Sadly you are wrong and it’s neither carpet or the underlay, and it is to do with the physiology of your feet adjusting to something different and sounds like underlying PF being the cause. Recommend an orthotic insole with pressure relief as isolated heel pain would be highly unlikely in this situation as would expect ball/toe pain if this was flooring related. So there you go.