PeterW

Sadly most councils see that as loss of income and revenue for services, so they tend to discourage ... I still remember the early days of CAT at Machynlleth and how they had some very radical ideas on off grid which I think the closest to mainstream that has become is either Lammas or Ben Law and his house in the woods which still lists as my all time favourite Grand Design, even with its extensions ..!

Meter moves are chargeable by most suppliers, meter installs are not. I think it’s Eon not understanding the request and tbh the last one I did with them put me off using them ever again as they left me a voicemail with the wrong reference for the wrong site and then tried to charge me for a failed visit for a site 40 miles away ....

Ok so this is a new connection and there is no charge for a new meter - I would be interested to know what they think they are charging for. TBH I found eon to be the worst of the suppliers for meter connections and once WP have given you the MPAN just ask any of the big 6 for a standard no contract tariff and meter install and then swap to whatever supplier you want to.

There are no meter installation charges for new connections, either for business or residential. Are you requesting they move the existing meter as you may be being quoted a meter move charge.

Doesn’t matter - Amazon hold the transaction and they end up as the legal seller so your rights remain with them.

Would love to see the criteria for those scores ..!!! How do you score environmental impact of installation ..?!

The charge will be for the connection not the meter - is there a supply head already in place ..??

Replace IC2 and IC3 with a brand new chamber and bring all the lower ones straight into it. Top two retain as is but would be tempted to run a rodding eye out top left. front soakaway I would put under the lawn - they aren’t great under driveways.

That timber frame looks like it’s holding things up so don’t panic but a good 2-3” is ideal. Looks good !! Wire brush that paint off and leave it as it’s lovely stone.

Any chance of naming the rooms they are coming from as it makes a difference to the connection sequence.

Yes - UVC will hold it’s heat for 24 hours With a system boiler and a UVC install, the things you will lose are the feed and header tanks in the attic, and the things you will gain are expansion vessel on the mains to the UVC, filling loop from mains to boiler circuit, and potentially an expansion vessel on the boiler / heating circuit if the boiler doesn’t have one built in. Everything else stays the same.

Think mine were from Geberit FoC... which reminds me, I have a Sigma plate in black going begging if anyone wants it ... @Onoff..??

Is this where I depress you @ToughButterCup and say I’ve got a wall anchor set in my spares box ..... ?

Ok so this may be your issue. Those flow meters have been working the wrong way for all this time and may be jammed, causing your flow failure, or the actuator valves may have failed. These units are designed for a particular direction of flow, which you don’t appear to have with this set up. I would be considering switching the manifold out - you’re talking change of £100 for a new 4 port manifold and a pair of isolators to redo that. Just reverse the rails so the correct one becomes flow - actuators should be on the return.

Assuming it’s the pump below the blending valve then it could be getting hot as it’s fighting the flow valves - those manifolds are back to front.

Yes as it will short cycle the closer it gets to target temperature. Depending on the unit they can sometimes have different flow temperatures for DHW and UFH, but some have a single flow temperature which will either be too hot to directly do the UFH or too cold for DHW.

heat source ..? And it’s preferable as you get less short cycles.

The control group comes with 4 ports. Inlet, reduced pressure outlet to the cylinder, balanced cold to the rest of the system and pressure relief, all in a single block. The Expansion vessel goes after the control group and before the cylinder, and nothing can go between them (no valves).

Don’t need the first PRV and strainer - balanced cold comes off the control group that you get with the UVC. best place for UVC cold feed drain is as it goes into the tank. Hot return goes into the tank at the top, not in to the cold feed. I feed WCs off the same branch as the outside taps but that is preference - they don’t need to have soft water or be reduced pressure.

Don’t fit the noggins just yet .... just cut the hole, offer up the hatch and screw to the joist on one side. Pack the other side with a couple of offcuts, then drill and screw through into the joist. Now measure and cut your noggins, flush them up tight to each end and screw in, then screw the noggin to the joists with some 70mm screws. Much easier than trying to make the opening first and get it square.

Just walk on the rafters... if you are that worried, do you have any deck board left over from doing the outdoor decking..? If so, just put some lengths of that down the middle and make sure it spans 3 joists and you screw it down. It won’t matter about insulation above /below it as there will only be a small amount (2 planks width is plenty) as you’re not using it for storage.

Local UPVC supplier is saying supply chain issues with coloured profiles, but white is still available. And merchants short stocking MDF products including sheet and profiles and that have increased in price by about 30% - MDF is a secondary product from timber procession so not entirely surprised by this.

Depends on the target though - if it is meet BRegs then they can do it, usually with 120mm PIR in the cavity, or 140mm rockwool plus 30mm of insulated plasterboard. But is that what you want ..? It may be the “cheapest” but what would adding the 30mm insulated plasterboard to the 120mm PIR do..? How much more efficient would the house be and what is the full lifecycle cost ..? Most of the TF companies don’t look at this (probably with exception of MBC and a couple of the “passiv” suppliers) and as such they don’t consider what you are asking for. I’d expect that most of their customers when asked what the requirements for the house are start with “4 bedrooms, 2 en-suite and a nice sunny open plan kitchen with an island”, not with “I’d like my heating bills to be less than £300 a year....” And if a supplier says they don’t know how to do that, find another supplier ...

@nod will be along shortly to give you your Strictly Come Plastering scores, but that doesn’t look too bad ..! Trick is to leave it alone and not constantly mess with and then flat it back.

More reason to eat the really good Somerset Brie then ..! None of rhe supermarkets are going to need any excuses to put prices up.