PeterW

It’s expensive and tbh I would go with battens and 25mm insulation and then use standard boards.

Weep will probably disappear when the boiler is properly back to temperature as it’s screwed into the iron tee on the tank. You “can” change them but they are a b#tch to align and are usually put in with Jet Blue or similar so they don’t need to bed down to create a seal.

@cwr too many variables here - chamber pressure, oil pressure, airflow, nozzle size, oil viscosity.. all can make a difference to the burn and unless you have the kit to check them all then getting someone to look at it is usually the easiest option and cheaper in the long run. Given white is usually unburnt fuel, you will be wasting a lot just finding the problems.

Yes just that - need longer to respond and the heat output isn’t as good. Cast is very good at holding heat - transfer by convection requires the material to lose heat hence the use of thin steel means that newer rads “feel warm” quicker and tend to have higher surface area.

Cast iron column rads are pretty inefficient anyway so adding a bench to the top won’t make it any worse. They rely on more radiation / convection from the thick casting rather than with fins as per modern steel rads.

Telford will make you one - just spec the high surface coil

He’s talking about self levelling compound that dries in hours. And does the flat have damp or condensation ..? If he’s suggesting injecting “special cream/gel” into the walls then walk away …

standard wet heater battery or duct heater - stick it on the buffer with a £80 pump and you can just push heat (or cold….) into the duct. Just make sure it’s insulated and has a drain if used for cooling too. https://www.ventilationland.co.uk/product/43887/heating-coil-for-circular-ducting-o125-4-67-kw.html

Install electric UFH in the bathrooms and heated towel rails and you’ll have loads of heat in the shoulder months when you need it and can also dry towels in the summer too. Other option is to add a wet battery heater to the ASHP - much better if drawn off the buffer pre-blender as water at 40°C will soon heat the air up and take any chill off the bedroom air flow.

@Roger440 3500 is the limit under planning / PD for an oil tank before you need to apply for permission - that’s the limiting factor. Nothing stopping you putting a pair side by side - just as long as you meet the Oil storage regs about distance from buildings etc.

ASHP is a heating appliance so I’ve seen it covered as “notifiable works” before but if you have it on your building regs application then you’re covered already - just make sure the BCO knows it’s part of the sign off !! The point up to the isolator outside should be done by the sparks but other than that you can crack on. So the quote is about £3k more than I would expect but it’s from “that” supplier so I’m not surprised … you don’t need 14 zones, so 14 Neostats is overkill. I don’t like their clippaplate system as you end up heating a lot of air under the floor space and if you install it as per their spec then you end up with a lot of easily damaged pipes as it loops under the joists. They have also not bothered to include any mixers, there is one pump for 2 manifolds and 1400m of pipe, and it will be a complete nightmare to commission as @Nickfromwales has had bitter experience of and so have I..!! 12kW ASHP is overkill - they haven’t done the heat loss calcs as 10kW is barely building regs losses and you’re going better. No-one gets sacked for spec of Nibe ASHP but they are expensive. For supply only that is about £4K over the odds.

In that case why not look at a scissor truss type setup ..? It would give you the feature ceiling but then give you the rafter depth and allow you to sort out any issues with getting enough insulation in on the sloping sides of the ceiling.

I think you can if it’s part of the planning permission

Do you have to given it is a listed building ..? I thought there were allowances ..?? That’s cheap..! A standard plastic one is £20+ these days and look crap .!

Can only see one example of that so don’t panic too much - you can either fit it and cut down the middle of the joist with a circ saw set at 23mm, or easier is to glue and screw a 3x2 to the side of the joist and then land the joins on that. Don’t try and get clever and do T&G ends into sides as it just doesn’t work !! Don’t forget to cut a knocking block off a board offcut - that’s the profile of the edge so you don’t smash the tongue or the groove of a board knocking it into place. Are you screwing or nailing the boards as well as glue ..?

Structural Engineer to survey it but if it’s leaning or canting over by that much then it is going to need serious work. £50k off is peanuts - I would expect it is also a listed building and the £50k could be swallowed in fees and professionals before you’ve made any sort of change to it to make it habitable.

How wide is the access ..? Would need 2.9m for most tippers to be comfortable

Good to hear all resolved !!

Limestone goes a mucky grey over time but never seen it dissolve ! Cracked flint should be cheap - you may have to work out how to take a 17 tonne load to make it worthwhile but it looks good as it’s multi coloured. Don’t forget a tipper can probably tip over a 3ft wall with care if the driver can get square onto it so the front garden could be the tip zone

I’d use 3 or 4 different gravel types - I can get 20mm broken flint/gravel at £30/tonne delivered bulk so I would use that as the predominant “material” and then lay “rivers” of the blue slate connecting two or three feature type trees. I would go simple with structural trees that need no attention such as a multi stem Cornus or Betula and then 3 or 4 of these would make for a nice layout. I’d also look at using a decent geotextile on a 5m width roll, make sure it’s pegged down properly and also probably spray off the whole area with Glyphosate before laying the membrane 2 or 3 weeks later.

saw one of those rolled up and it had a carrier down a single cable to the post with a winch type arrangement - think it used sail carriers or something and was very nice.

TBH if I was putting additional load on those rafters I would be putting in collar ties and then you get the semi vaulted ceiling by design. You’ll need minimum 100mm between and 35mm over to get close to building regs and may then get away with replacing one or two slates on the hip end with nice lead vents - one at the hip and one high up at the far end should allow airflow and keep BCO satisfied https://www.leadworx.co.uk/shop/lead-roof-vents/lead-flat-top-roof-vents These guys make some lovely stuff..!! Should be a conservation idiots wet dream …

@Furnace from memory those hoses have a rubber washer in them on the face of the joint with the expansion vessel. Ideally you want to change that too, or at least turn it over and re-seat the hose. Good opportunity to drain and refill with inhibitor as @Temp said - when was the system flushed last ..??

And yes - wiring is usually 5 wire with LNE to the valve motor and a SPST micro switch that is NC when the valve is energised

You need to search for a Diverter Valve https://www.draytoncontrols.co.uk/products/motorised-valves/3-port-diverter/motorised-valve-3-port-diverter