Onoff

Now be honest, it was the shape that attracted you?

I rate these too. I've a red pair as well from Screweys that I think are a "make" , no real difference.

A bit late for some... https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Nail-Gripper-Grips-Nails-Whilst-You-Hammer/28005957839? or https://www.prezzybox.com/nail-it-finger-saving-nail-holder.aspx? etc

People might be a bit reticent about telling you what they have and where they are on an open forum!

I had a chat with Kevin from CT1. He covers the Midlands but is happy to talk / help on any CT1 related question. Some interesting comments: "Clear" products like CT1 are generally considered "weaker" than their coloured siblings. They don't add pigments. Apparently you can tell the difference if you pick up a coloured and clear tube of CT1. Early 2019 they are reintroducing their WT1 tanking membrane. Before it had to be trowelled on but they have revamped it to go on with a roller. They do a new Anthracite CT1. If you order a pallet or more (2500 tubes?) they'll do it in a RAL colour of your choice As to my enquiry ref using CT1 Power Grab n Bond to put tiles onto marine ply: If I was going straight onto the ply he said he'd have no issue. The fact I'm tanking he's worried about a reaction between the Aquaseal membrane and Power Grab n Bond. Anyone know what Aquaseal is, polymer, latex etc? He's suggested I stick a tile sample to a piece of tanked ply that has been then primed with tiling primer then another tanked but no primer. Nice bloke anyway if anyone has a CT1 related question: Kevin Cashin C Tec Midlands/ C Tec Ireland Mob: 07943 652135 Ire: 086 0465614 Ph: 0121 439 5823 Fax: 0121 2850253 www.ct1ltd.com

I was joking about the lack of enclosure! Friday eh? Should finish it off nicely. CT1 at the ready? I'm not sure yet whether I'll need a screen / enclosure. I quite fancy some bespoke, hinged glass doors like @Nickfromwales has posted a few times and I think @ProDave has done recently? Guessing £££ though! The hope is that the combination of the eventual UFH and overhead body dryer (both in but not connected) will help dry out my wet floor. It's funny but way, way back I did consider leaving the doorway I blocked up open to create a walk in shower cubicle. Behind this is a corridor hived off of the downstairs master bedroom. The area where the old wc is in the picture below is now the wet room corner. I could have used the other half of the corridor and had a slim, walk in shower/wc off the master bedroom. Never mind! Whatever, looks a bit different now: Hoping to finish off the bath boxing in tonight. Then it's tank it and tile! Still awaiting a call from CT1 about whether I can use their Power Grab n Bond to whack the tiles onto the ply. It'd make it super quick to tile. Bit concerned though if the stuff is instant grab/dry. I like the idea of it only being a relatively thin bonding medium. Give CT1 their due they did email me back asking for my mobile to discuss the issue, I just haven't heard back.

I'm going to ask the daft question.....the stonework is just there for "show" as in an aesthetic skin and the TF does all the work holding everything up?

An oldie but a goodie!

?

Been so long I couldn't find the carefully mitred bits for the bath end! Still missing a couple tbh. Must have had a clear up at some time of all the timber in the bathroom and they got mixed up. Found half the bits in the open but under the cover of the tree house which is a bit of a dumping ground. A bit damp. Waiting for the Gorilla Glue to dry.

Your original walls were probably very "out" befitting its cottage origins. Don't forget there was a movement years ago to square everything off, take out / board over original features like fireplaces, dado rails etc. A wild thought but if you did ewi you could potentially recover all that lost character and expose everything! Just reminded me of working at The Old War Office around 88/89. They spent a fortune uncovering and restoring all the original plaster and gilt work that had been covered over during a previous "makeover". Tastes change.

If anyone's in the market for a water meter. These seem reasonable: https://isswww.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?q=Water+meter

Another 18th edition test paper here (answers on the last page). I've had to scrub out all the pen marks ticking the answers and redo the a,b,c,d. I've a second paper I'll do sometime. 2382-18_paper1.pdf

Quinetic switches allow you to have "proper" switches in the bathroom instead of a pull cord. You can even place one within easy reach of the bath to dim everything once in the tub.

As I said before I love the traditional look with the underlying modern build techniques. Any chance you can clad that ASHP with matching brick slips?

I meant to comment on the gun issues before you edited it. For one reason or another I've "killed" two, maybe 3 guns. First was my fault and another just started to leak. Maybe just two? But back to the gun that was my fault it died: I'd finished the can and decided to store the gun. I gave it a QUICK blast through with cleaner and put it away. That was my mistake. Next time...seized solid. Where I went wrong is that as per the instructions you're supposed to leave the cleaner in there for 5 mins or so before purging it! It's all I can suggest you do. Take off the foam can and squirt the top of that to remove any oozing out. It should stop. Then spray the gun thread where the can screws in to clean that and screw the can on. Give it it a blast though with the gun cleaner and shut the valve as you're doing it. Leave the cleaner in there to do it's magic for 5, 10 mins. Blast through, foam back on and try again. Also check the very tip of the gun barrel. There's a wee ball bearing looking thing in there that can get gummed up. It retracts I think as you pull the trigger. VERY carefully use the tip of a Stanley blade to clean any crud. Go too mad and you'll score things and it'll leak (ask me how I know ) Yours being a new gun you might have some luck with a strip down if it comes to it. Two things I've found is that the black Teflon coating on the central "rod" up the gun barrel wears off over time. That in turn causes leakage through little O rings and imo it's new gun time.

Looks good. I'd fit an enclosure if it was me though...

I've emailed CT1 with a couple of photos and questions about Power Grab n Bond.

Gerber Suspension here!

+1. There's some proper weirdos on here...

Yours too! My kids show a Pavlovian response when ours goes off and start salivating.

Just realised.....I have to tile the sides first before the deck. Debating CT1 Power Grab n Bond for the slanting sides. Anyone used it? http://www.ct1ltd.com/our-products/power-grab-n-bond/ & will it grab onto tanking membrane???

No need I don't think. Bath is against two internal walls with 2" - 4" of pir and 2" of eps. You've then got the (albeit lagged) pipes to the towel rad. Oh, and there's 150mm of pir under the slab atop 25mm of eps.

What it looks like now: I first need to finish this end off: A bit of light on things: Can't decide whether to put a couple of isolation valves in the bath pipes - behind an access panel? Now, to tile the deck once the above is done I've Gorilla Glue'd a marine ply strip around the cut out in the deck: Rough plan is the tile butts up to the ply strip. Should be plenty of overhang. I'll finish the timber work at the end then ply it and tank the lot. Then have another think!

Ta. Didn't realise there were two separate bits. Will have a better look tomorrow.