Onoff

You've got to do it? How much are they paying YOU?

A scheme member? If so take it up with their scheme provider.

Pythagoras Theorem for getting things square.....and a long tape. Knock up a quick jig that'll hook over or screw to your wall plate over the Thunderbolt position & use that to guide your flat wood bit for counterboring. It'll have no meat to centre on 'coz of the existing bolt hole. Flat wood bit a bit oversize to suit the socket you're using to wind the bolt in. Flat washer same size as socket.

Pythagoras Theorem for getting things square.....and a long tape. Knock up a quick jig that'll hook over or screw to your wall plate over the Thunderbolt position & use that to guide your flat wood bit for counterboring. It'll have no meat to centre on 'coz of the existing bolt hole. Flat wood bit a bit oversize to suit the socket you're using to wind the bolt in.

CPC do a few too, e.g: https://cpc.farnell.com/cam-lock/3101-1a01-td0501/camlock-20mm-keyed-alike-td0501/dp/SR08263?

Hmmm...so a line of caulk along the top and a line of CT1 lower down to stick the trim to the wall?

"Caulk" as in decorator's caulk? As opposed to CT1 or Sika? I was half tempted to stick the trim on the wall first using the mosaics to gauge height backed up by some feint pencil lines on the painted wall. Clear CT1 (trim to painted wall) seems obvious but will paint go over CT1? If that's a goer then once the trim is on, blob the backs of the mosaics with grey CT1 (as I have it spare) and quickly push in the mosaics level with the trim.

Appreciated. What about a neat "seal" between back of the trim to the mist coated wall and top of the tile to the trim? SWMBO prefers not to feel a ridge at the trim edge so I'm sitting the trim on top of rather than lipping over the tile. (Doesn't always work out with my wonky tiling ) I've a tube of grey CT1 doing nothing so will use that up here.

The 160mm is just my recollection of how much pir is equivalent to the Building Regs minimum I think, of 270mm of the fluffy, roll type stuff. As I say I've put pir in between the ceiling joists of the bathroom. The fluffy roll stuff is usually laid first between the joists then at right angles across them. Going over the joists has some benefits in mitigating any cold bridge effect through the joists themselves. I went pir purely for "aesthetics" and future works ease of access, keeping it tidy up above the ceiling. With hindsight I'd have likely concentrated on insulating the roof joists above the loft to bring the loft and in turn the bathroom ceiling within a thermal envelope. However...as I want, (PP permitting, unlikely to be granted I think) to change the hip roof ends to gables it seemed a lot of work to insulate the hip roof ends if they're one day coming off.

A couple of questions if I may: Grey "shelf" tiles are all stuck on the length of that wall. All the mosaics for the upstand are cut. 1) Do I sit the mosaics on 1mm shims, wipe the excess whatever adhesive off, clear CT1 the 1mm gap then finish with white silicon? 2) If using Sika / CT1 then how much do I put on the back of the tile, each corner and a centre blob or all 4 sides? 3) Clear CT1 I assume or white Sika. Both ferkin expensive. A pity something like Sticks Like Sh!t wouldn't do it! 4) If I Sika / CT1 then how do I stop the 1mm shims getting stuck in there? If I take them out before the "adhesive" is set the tiles will slump. 5) 10mm tile trim. The "risk" is I push the tile too far back and it sits well under the trim. Dry fit first maybe then stick plastic shims onto the wall first to stop me pushing the tiles in too far? Cheers

My go-to, Aurora Enlite. So paranoid (obsessed?) about these things in pir I've put mine in Thermahoods. 100mm pir in the ceiling at the mo. The Thermahood gets bedded on a seal of intumescent mastic. I'm then going to foam fill around the Thermahood then over insulate with 50mm pir. Then a big, overlapping square of 150mm pir over that. Determined the "traditional", tall downlighters won't affect my insulation depth overall. https://www.thermahood.com The TH 095 is the lower profile than I've used square hood btw. Be bloody expensive though with that many lights in yours! Clay flower pots have been used in the past!

Holmfirth! Where I was introduced to heavy drinking as a 16 year old apprentice! Hurlimanns...mmmm! Used to stay in a pub up above the village...the Fox or something. Good luck anyway!

The rough guide is that if you take a hand wire brush to your rusty rebar, when it's off the rebar should remain within it's given tolerance. It's the ribs along the rebar by design that provide "grip" in the concrete not the rust. Stainless rebar is of course available.

So similar.....to my floor protection sheets!

No need, I bought one of these out of Viz: Made in Wales...

Sod the lot of you I'm going to go to the end of the garden.....and cut tiles in the dark!

Glad I can fill a few minutes of your empty lives!

Looking like Lidl might be worth a try at 49p per 64. https://www.lidl.co.uk/en/MiddleofLidl.htm?articleId=12711

Build another wall?

The man himself said buy the cheapest ones you can!

For removing CT1 we like these baby wipes: But we DON'T like these baby wipes:

This might assist ref the shower tray:

Coming up 4 in April?

Your concrete should be above the DPM layer so not an issue.

Concrete is, for years, post pour an alkaline medium. There's actually a protective, passive layer formed around the steel and even if it's rusty this layer reduced further corrosion to a minimum. The problem occurs when over time the alkaline medium turns acid. From memory this is to do with CO2 penetrating over time ( I think). I've an article somewhere detailing why some of the early art deco buildings failed along with that block of flats that came down. Best bet is use rebar that's as rust free as possible or stainless even. There are additives you can add to the initial mix and even paint on solutions designed to arrest further corrosion.