Onoff

Can get to the olives on these two ends: But not this as there's a straight coupler stopping the but going back:

PTFE tape wrap before or after the compound?

Thanks. F**k it's freezing in this loft!

I'd hate to be one of those unfortunate people with no central heating or hot water especially in this weather....oh wait, tonight I AM! Just stopped for a warm up around the 3KW fan heater and a brew. Came in tonight and up front RCD had put the whole house out. Traced to downstairs ring then 3-port valve now leaking rather than just heavily stained. SWMBO arrives home and explains you have to put "one thing on at a time". She plays with the two controllers. Boiler fires up.....and it all trips again. So I thought bugger it, I'll do the 3-port and two 2-ports tonight as I have new Honeywell ones sitting here. It had to be done, I was expecting this.....just not tonight! Old ones are all Tower brand. Power isolated. Drain cock on oil boiler and downstairs rads both blocked. Had to back blast with the compressor! 3-port: All stripped out: The convoluted T that links all the valves: It's pretty gummy in there, seems a pity to be fitting new valves but hey ho! Looks like the 3-port will go straight in. Even that lower 28mm connection has cleaned up. One of the connections to the 22mm 2-port cleaned up: My question to the collective is can I just slap the new valves on to the old nuts/olives? Same thread form & cleaned up OK with wire wool, tbh the nuts don't seem to have compressed the olives that much. A couple of olives on the 3-port pipes I can spin by hand. Figuring plenty of Jet Blue Plus will not only seal but allow that bit much more to smoothly nut things up. Dinner now then back at it. Not looking forward to refilling etc no doubt in the early hours! Cheers

Done with a "contour gauge" I imagine then jigsaw. You'll love it! For example: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/High-Precision-250mm-Profile-Contour-Gauge-45mm-Deep-Decorating-Tiling-Template/381884447463?

I've used Metreel's Helm Track for nearly 35 years for all things slidey rail esque... http://www.metreel.co.uk/division/homepage

Erm...the clever people will be along shortly, me, monkey see / monkey do. Top of my head unvented can go anywhere as at mains pressure. You don't need a cold water tank to feed it. Better pressure than traditional vented systems for things like showers. Crap can't fall into the tank as there isn't one... They can blow up though! Vented vent to the atmosphere / back to the tank via expansion pipes.

An unvented system is under pressure so needs commissioning by somebody with a bit of paper to their name and thereafter an annual check.

Yep, this runs off a plug top and the lights dim! I'll stick a clamp meter on it some time. 2.2kW motor rings a bell. When it was on the 3P converter it was wired with 3-core & earth 6243Y

Looks to me like the cable's not long enough (and taut?) hence it being fitted like that. Also is there a shroud missing off of the pump connector?

I THINK it was a TEC motor but will confirm tomorrow. They really are pretty cheap. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TEC-Single-Phase-Electric-Motor-230V-50HZ-Foot-Flange-Face-CapCap-0-25-to-3-7KW/122080278808? One thing is the motor output shaft diameter may be different to what's there at the moment. I honestly can't remember what he/we did but I did give him any random motor pullies I had to play with and he might have had to drill out and re-keyway one. Single phase motors are naturally bigger than 3 phase ones for a given power but in this instance not really an issue. Loads of space atop the post. Might too have to make an adaptor plate - simples! Single phase motors are also more complicated in that amongst other things they'll have a couple of large capacitors that can die but are easily replaceable. Also a centrifugal switch possibly.

The BiL as I said before converted his three phase, 2 post Bradbury to single phase and it works a treat just by changing the motor. I think the original motor was 3HP. He faffed for several years with it on a 3 phase converter and geared it down via changing the pulley at the top. It'd put a Robin Reliant through the garage roof but stick a Granada Scorpio on it and it'd run out of steam about 4' off the deck. I think the new single phase motor is 2HP. All I did was make a dog rough up/down control box with a couple of buttons and contactors. I'll pop round one evening and see what's what in terms of original motor vs new motor and the top pulley ratios.

Now that's weird...explain this: Dry fitting the tiles I laid them on the dry tanking. The tiles had been wet cut, rinsed under running water, paper towelled dry and stood against a radiator to dry off a bit. To carry on tonight with levelling the bath and to clear the excess tanking from under the lip, I lifted the loose tiles up. Under the tiles the tanking is "wet"...condensation? Same goes for when I left a stack of tiles on the window cill. Wet between the tiles when I shifted them. So that's cold tiles, stacked one on top of each other "spaced" by the ribs under the tiles. Warm 'ish room. Like some sort of weird heat exchanger.

Over on: https://simplysolar.supporttopics.com They have a few DIY systems where they they have hinged panels to prevent "over generation". Mainly solar thermal.

15x the diameter increasing to 25x in very cold weather.

Good, traditional wood yards have big, like hand sized big, router bits that do all the convex & concave shaping in one hit. MDF skirting I'd guess is moulded. EDIT: Seems MDF skirting is machined:

Pity those deck tiles aren't actually stuck down yet! Going to do another "test" sticking tiles to MEMBRANED ply with CT1 Power Grab to confirm the results above. (Half kicking myself for just having bought 3 more tubes of the stuff ). If I don't use it on the deck and just the (plain ply) bath end, I'll have two tubes left over! On the "direct to ply" bath sides it appears to have stuck the tiles like sh!t to a blanket. I can't remember but I've half a feeling I may have, way back, actually given that ply a coat of genuine Aquaseal primer thinking I'd be applying membrane soon thereafter! On the little sample piece that appeared to have stuck well I really went for it and tried to pull the tile off. Not sure what this shows? Seemingly where the CT1 PG&B is "full width" of the sample the tile is still stuck fast to the ply. It's the little stained areas either side that concern me suggesting it didn't adhere. Maybe for the next test ensure the tile backs are washed & scrubbed clean? You've used Aquaseal tanking membrane before I think. Have you "siliconed" or "grab adhesived" tiles direct to the (blue) membraned substrate? What fid you use and did you use a primer? Cheers

I was just faffing about with coloured packs to see what's what at the 4 corners but it's compounded by the fact I've got lumps of membrane on the bath lip. Need to take them off before I properly assess. It's about 3mm on this corner. Brown insulating tape just to protect edge from getting covered in tanking.

As nothing more than a point of interest sockets should be a minimum of 300mm from the hob. Nothing you can do about it of course.

Could you ignore any slight bow in the worktop and just set the hob down on a bead of intumescent mastic and baby wipe flush?

I'm more worried that there's no room under the tile for any adhesive or "CT1" etc. That and when there's weight (water / bodies) in it it might bear down and crack the tiles. It's a combination of things; me relying on a spirit level rather than the laser, the thickness of the tanking tape etc. We'll get there!

Dry fitted only but we can see where we're going! Slight prob at the mo is that the bath is right down on the 4 tiles on the left but there's clearance between bath lip and tiles on the right. They're not lifting the bath on the left but there's just no clearance at all. Could likely do with the feet adjusting but there is no way I can get to the one far left...maybe slide a stainless plate under the "low" feet.

Slap your hampton on it when the red light's showing and report back!

My induction hob shows a red LED "H".....for HOT! :

"The Hob Hot warning light switches on when one of more heating areas exceeds 60degC". "The warning light stays on until the teperatures of all cooking areas have dropped below 60degC" What's not clear?