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Onoff

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Everything posted by Onoff

  1. Careful if exposing old chimney breasts that the mortar is in good order if you've still an open fire below. Nasty fumes can kill you super quick.
  2. Sorry but imo you can't beat a hard wired switch. That from someone who uses Quinetic.
  3. Intermediate switches are handy on mid landings etc.
  4. That's it for tonight. Run out of CT1 & Sticks Like Sh!t: Off to Screweys in the morning to get another couple of tubes of Sticks Like. Debating buying a box of 12 for £60 and doing the bath tiles with that. Then though I think I should use plain old clear silicon or tile adhesive what with the substrate being ply. But it'll be tanked so why not tile adhesive? I just don't know what way to go! Did find a couple of generic adhesives, one expired Oct 2014 and the other had Oct 2014 as the manuf date and a 24 month shelf life! Maybe I should bin 'em?
  5. I've left a credit card size gap between the bottom of the wall tiles and the floor tiles. I'll grout then wipe flush and finish with a white, good quality silicon that I can replace as and when. Can't remember if @Nickfromwales said to CT1 and wipe flush after the grout but before the white silicon? My bath doesn't abut the walls as such but sits on a marine ply deck that will all be tanked. That'll be flat tiled first. The bath will sit on those flat tiles. The wall tiles will come down and sit on those flat tiles with the same 1mm gap as elsewhere. In case anyone's forgotten what's under all the crap and temporary boarding:
  6. Plasticiser just makes it more workable. FFS don't use washing up liquid. You get various "admix" from separate ones to 3 in 1 types. TP do the exact same Sika waterproofer as Wickes as they have the same parent company. https://www.wickes.co.uk/Sika-Proof-Waterproof-Admixure---5l/p/133791?
  7. When you post a link you can delete back to the "?". Makes the link shorter. As above. Tbh you could probably just mix a bit of ordinary 5 water:1 pva in with your mix if you're going to paint afterwards with an exterior masonary paint. Yes, I add the Ever Build waterproofer to concrete, render, mortar. Worth blocking the gaps up where you can. I too have uneven rendered walls. If nothing else it'll help stop getting wasps, social bees in there. You can also get thin upvc trim you can stick on to take the shape of the wall and back it up with white silicon designed for upvc products of use the silicon on its own even: https://www.screwfix.com/p/sika-sika-plastix-upvc-sealant-translucent-300ml/8615P? Be careful though about sealing it all up too well as a draughty loft generally stays dry. You can get upvc soffit board sections with a continuous vent grill in it drill 70mm holes and retro fit round ones: I had birds nesting in the eaves and fitted these. Made it less comfortable for them and they buggered off! https://www.screwfix.com/p/circular-soffit-vent-white-70mm-10-pack/68936 On the other hand...if you increase or change the venilation paths in your roof space you can expose pipes to freezing if not properly lagged. Fun ain't they these old houses!
  8. 6 inches by 2 inches? I would normally say a cheap waterproofing additive like this: https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p80460?
  9. Went ahead and used the Sticks Like Sh!t on the second tiles up. Really nice to use and squidge down "We did this one with CT1 and this one with Sticks Like Sh!t!" Time will tell!
  10. No. Just got a Snake Scope that I use on the Linux laptop.
  11. Ta. So can I carry on and use the Sticks Like Sh!t to carry on (and use it up)? One side goes from 5 to 3mm, the other is about 5 constant: I could either whack some adhesive on there with the 6mm notched trowel or shoot out and get some more clear silicon or grab adhesive first thing. Or use the Sticks Like Sh!t up first.
  12. Wouldn't have been many names on a neighbour's petition!
  13. @Nickfromwales, probably should have used adhesive but in a Devil may care "mood"! I've just wacked some horizontal beads of CT1 on the back of these two side tiles. Should have probably done vertical so if any water does get behind the tiles... Whatever, if I put the next tile on there's quite a gap behind for the grout to fill. How do I over one that it will the grout sort it? Cheers
  14. Need to do these side tiles. Going to run out of CT1 I'm sure. Is Evo-Stick Sticks Like Sh!t any good? It's here doing nothing at the mo... And would it be "safe" to stick one with CT1 and the next with the Sticks Like Sh!t? Ta
  15. Rough count about 110, all cut ones pretty much. That includes the top and sides of the bath and bath pocket. Doesn't include inside the cupboard. Done for the 14th looking unlikely.
  16. Having the serious ar$e over this morning's events I couldn't be bothered mixing up adhesive so reached for the new tube of grey CT1. That and half a tube of clear got the soffit tiles up.
  17. House! You were lucky to live in a house! We used to live in one room, all twenty-six of us, no furniture, 'alf the floor was missing, and we were all 'uddled together in one corner for fear of falling.
  18. Wish I'd never found this forum sometimes along with never having been in a passive house. Ignorance was bliss!
  19. I DREAM of rooms at 8degC! The name btw stems back to a grammar school teacher berating me for my attitude / not making the most of the opportunity etc. (I'd been caught after ambushing two to$$ers and got caught kicking 7 shades out of the one I'd put down (the other ran off). A teacher grabbed me from behind so I went for him. Tbh he was pretty good about it when I explained my side. The comment was that I could really make something of myself if I knuckled down as when I did it was good but when I didn't etc and that it was either on or off with me with no in between. Thereafter I switched off!
  20. Condensation: Pretty sure once again, earlier in the thread I mentioned that if you insulate and make airtight you need to consider ventilation? Pretty sure I did. You can also create dead air spaces get mould etc. Condensation does show though you've created a bigger temperature differential which is good. Maybe run a little dehumidifier? I'm seriously looking to DIY a single room MVHR solution to vent my bathroom and try and recover some vented heat. I have the space in the loft to consider a long tubular design. Yes I could buy but I WANT to do this. It'd be a piece of pi$$ for you if ever you were to consider it what with your amp / cabinet making skills & attention to detail. This thread might be of interest:
  21. Well this has really fu**ed my Saturday morning up! Apologies to @richi for a start. @richi kindly donated 3 solar thermal panels to me the other year. I put them "safely" in the corner of the old ramshackle stable block that came with the house. Utter crap the way it was built. Adjacent to the stable a neighbours tree (ash?) has grown and was pushing against the wall. More than a few times I've suggested nicely it (the tree) be taken down but haven't been overly fussed as the whole stable really needs to be demolished & rebuilt. Neighbour calls round this morning to tell me the wall has collapsed. Two panels out of the 3 destroyed. I'm really quite upset. Bad enough their fu**ing conifers are so high.
  22. Angle the bath panel inwards at the base - easier to stand close to it. Sink the bath feet into the floor so the bottom of the bath is level with the tiled floor. Both together make it much easier getting in and out especially when older.
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