Onoff

Can't the manifold go under the stairs i.e the other side of that wall it's on now? That's where I'm putting mine. I'm not having another heat source in the room where the stairs are. Hoping the manifold on wall and insulated tails in the floor to the other (6?) room's UFH loops will suffice.

Thinking to go with 5mm lock & top sides and go with what is in the corner. It'll roughly be 17mm from lhs frame to the edge of the quadrant, 21mm across the quadrant then 19mm to the edge of the rhs frame. There's some near symmetry at least, visually imo.

Cheering from underneath would show real support!

Mike Harding did a good sketch on buying a house and every room was done in cork...

But a larger quadrant will sit off the edge of the door frame further than the architrave.

Hinge clearance! Never gave it a thought! However... In this instance the hinge side is pretty much an internal corner where both frames meet. Using the quadrant I have which is about the same thickness as the bullnose, will put quadrant about 12-15mm from the edge on the hinge side. Question is whether to bring it in on the top and lock sides.

Are there any rules for offsetting architrave from the door frame? I've to trim the bathroom main and cupboard door frames. These are 27mm: Using this 45mm wide bullnose: Is there a "norm" for the distance between edge of frame and the front of the bullnose? Where the frames meet I'll put quadrant:

...or earthing therapy. Mind you why not, only a logical extension of the Gaia Theory that I happen to buy in to.

I'd just cast a thick concrete one in-situ using concrete dye, you could form whatever fancy T shape, curved front etc you want with shuttering. I'd probably lay some chicken wire in it. https://www.toolstation.com/powder-mortar-tone-1kg/p12419?

In the Q&As for these similar boards they're suggesting screws at 150mm centres: https://www.amazon.co.uk/ProWarm-10mm-Backer-Board-1200x600mm/dp/B009A80R4M

Ta. Was thinking to tank the whole lot with Aqua Seal menbrane when done. Doesn't seem quite right having no screws in the middle of the board...

Tbh I wonder how many people can be bothered invoking the 3 year g'tee when the tools are so cheap to start with. Wondering further if in some small print somewhere, return to supplier/manufacturer will be at my cost. Assuming I do get my £34.99 back I don't think I'll be spending it at Lidl this time. Though for another fiver... https://www.lidl.co.uk/en/MiddleofLidl.htm?articleId=21786 To think I had my first Bosch pistol drill 16 years and the second one another 16! ?

Potentially yes. A lot depends on the source earthing system too, especially PME. This imo is quite a good read: https://professional-electrician.com/technical/stroma-certification-supply-chain/

Well I won't ever be buying any other Parkside power tools irrespective of how good a deal they appear! If you want a refund after a year, so within their much advertised 3 year guarantee period you have to jump through hoops it appears. Took this drill bought in Jan 2018 as the hammer function ceased - selector switch issue I think, back to the store to be told as its over 12 months since purchase I have to go through customer services. The response I got: "Thank you for taking the time to contact us regarding the above product. If you have a faulty product which was purchased within the last 12 months from Lidl, you may return the product together with the original itemised receipt to your local Lidl store to obtain a full refund. If you require further assistance, please provide as much of the following information as you can:  · Description of the fault · Barcode number · The IAN number (this can usually be found on the base of the product) · Brand name and model number. These can normally be found on the product or within the instruction manual · Serial number. This can normally be found on the product. · Are you in possession of your itemised receipt? If so please provide us with a copy. · Date of purchase · The store you bought the item in · The product cost · Please note that on some occasions we may need to contact the supplier on your behalf. If we need to do this please confirm if you give your consent to pass your details to our supplier. * In order to resolve your request, we require your consent to pass your details to our supplier so they can get in touch with you directly. As the manufacturer of the product, they’ll be able to offer you the best advice and support. For Data Protection reasons, we need your consent to do this. Please let us know if you consent with the transfer of your details by using the following text: "I hereby agree to passing my details to the supplier." If you do not give consent please advise accordingly. Please note that your consent is voluntary. You can revoke your consent at any time by sending an email to customer.services@lidl.co.uk quoting your reference number. Please note, if you have contacted us about more than one type of faulty product, these will be dealt with under separate reference numbers. Please respond to these individually. Please send these details direct to the address below, quoting your reference number from the subject line or reply directly to this email (without deleting the subject line): Customer Service Department Lidl Great Britain Limited Tailend Farm Deans Road Livingston EH54 8SE I look forward to hearing from you. Yours sincerely, For and on behalf of Lidl Great Britain Limited. I've written a quick response back saying I'll get all the info together but because the process is so much grief and they don't make the guarantee Ts&Cs clear at time of purchase I'll not be buying any more Parkside power tools and advising others not to.

He's set on going for 10mm tile backer boards, specifically these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tile-Backer-Board-6mm-10mm-Insulation-Boards-100wsh/371609458052?hash=item5685a65584:m:moAK8YbYeDtX2FmblbtDoYw&frcectupt=true Is there a guide for putting these up anyone knows of as in type of fixings (the boards come with "washers"), number & spacing of fixings per board, what to do where the boards abut one another as in leave a gap or use some sort of adhesive? He's on about using plugs and screws but I can't help thinking a hammer in type fixing would be better to save positioning the boards and drilling, then removing the board to fit the plugs. Cheers

Save The World....great choon! ?️

Go for a large format tile effect panel and the joint can be a pseudo grout line. https://www.ukbathrooms.com/products/april-identiti2-wetroom-panels.html

Didn't you say he checked out on the HETAS site?

I'd give him the opportunity to put it right, I'm sure he has a mate who is properly HETAS certified. Has he not broken the law by all this? http://www.hetas.co.uk/wp-content/mediauploads/Advice-Leaflet-3-08-16.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwipvIvpq-jhAhUGLewKHUFQACgQFjABegQIDhAE&usg=AOvVaw0V6LjENwjDMqhus3fnGyPU

2-core 25mm is about the same weight as 3-core 16mm...put the garden room on its own TT earth as above I would. The 16mm will allow just under 40A.

Could you not add a batten the depth of the proposed insulation, around the base frame perimeter now, to account for this?

Your cheapest route at the mo for a Geberit frame is to get a 111.292.00.1 like I have and as per the email but that calls for a stud depth of 170mm. (I'm lucky in that everywhere mine have gone/are planned I can make depth without too much detriment on room size. In the bathroom it went back into a deep studded wall & old, blocked up doorway. In the ensuite it'll go into a dormer cheek / the loft. The downstairs cloak is the only place I'll lose a bit of space but I can move a door frame to grab some back).

Mankytoe Dachi?

The drawing extracts I posted above are for the older Geberit Kappa UP200 - the 3 frames I have. The video is for a Sigma. This should really help. Full instruction leaflets are here for the Sigma, Omega and Kappa cisterns (not my ones as older and although 15cm Kappa cisterns they're 98cm high frames): https://www.geberit.co.uk/products/installation-systems/geberit-duofix/

12V ones in Lidl at the mo, £14.99: