Onoff

1400x1400 on plan, 100mm at the edges and about 80mm at the wall drain. Great fun too: Wall drain in: 1mm angle iron formers Exotic, very "resinous", SBR heavy mix with 10mm pea shingle as the aggregate: Tamped with two fall lines from corners to drain: You can see the slope here: Mark up the tiles: Dry fit: Etc

Dad's best mate years back worked in a quarry in the early 70s. An eccentric, morbidly obese, hoarder neighbour died and the son piled all her belongings in a heap in the woods behind our then house. Various others dumped garden waste and top soil on it until the mound became Rat City. Roger decided he could fix it and brought some of the "special stuff" home from work. Biggest bang ever, no more heap! You just know Marsh Rat plays blues guitar: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WnOQH4vj2Zk

It's obligatory to have a bonfire over many nights to burn a stump out. You just sit round staring at the flames contemplating the meaning of life! Of course with a digger...

Says Mr Microbore!

My plumbing works fine as I'd happily demonstrate to her...

Or at least Julia Kendell...

The darker something is the more imperfections that'll show. Get a nice bright white on that and you'll lose even more imperfections that you see at present.

Lots of experience in having a leak I suppose... Cess pool wouldn't take it at the moment anyway!

Donations to my PayPal account would work for me... ?

I remember a Tomorrow's World years back where they're were following a utilities company (GPO back then?) tramping round Scotland fitting CO2 powered wood preserver injectors to telegraph poles. Is it the oft quoted, 6" up from the ground splash zone that rots post at this low level?

One of the first passenger lifts in London was at the Prudential building in Holborn. That had a spiral staircase going up AROUND the lift shaft. All finished in mosaic tiles. The lift doors, in fact wrought iron gates exited the shaft onto the stair landings. In later years the lift mechanism was removed and open grilles put in at every level. I spent some happy hours in there with an angle grinder removing all the old stub brackets that supported the original guide rails. These had been deemed dangerous as they were so sharp. Just saying...reminiscing...

I can certainly see the attraction. I'd be worried though that over time the gravel would migrate into the surrounding soil and the post loosen. I suppose you just level them up and tamp more gravel in... Easier to nick the gates too maybe? Just lift the whole lot up, posts and all! I wonder if anyone has come up with a thick, vertically permeable wrap to go around wooden posts before you concrete them in?

You can't just sling gravel on the existing drive, the ground needs prepping. Means getting a man with a digger in and going down about a foot+. Lots of things to consider. This is a good starting point: http://www.pavingexpert.com/gravel01.htm

Don't be silly, your gravel will just start falling into your post holes! Posts first, gravel later.

Update. He's had a builder mate come around and look at the walls. Consensus is that the damp is where the water from the showering has gotten through the grout lines and behind. Wright or wrong he "primed" the whole area with 2 coats of Mapei Primer G. Applied it late on Monday. Prior to this he hacked off the loose plaster in the area circled below: When the Mapei Primer G dry to the touch he's "filled / skimmed" with this stuff - just really the area circled above: Says as of this morning it's dried everywhere but on the "blackjacked" areas it's still damp /cold. The tiles for the wall he has are porcelain, 600x600x8.5 (9.5?) He's considering saying "f*** it" and boarding with Aqua Panel/Wedi boards etc. Couldn't he just Aqua Seal tank the whole lot and get the tiles on? Says it's all pretty flush holding the spirit against it. Any thoughts on how he can best get a surface ready to tile on that will take the tile weight and how to fix whatever to the wall behind? Cheers

Got a mate in NZ who's recently sold up his rural smallholding and moved for the the comforts of town. His water supply was rain through a rudimentary filter into a big tank. His wc was a "long drop" that would periodically need redigging!

There'd be a certain irony if a cricket ball went through the oval window.....

I'm feeling it might be time to re look at the magazine fed bog roll dispenser idea!

The back wall will get a quick coat of something pre boarding out just so it looks all neat and tidy when I take the removable panel off.

Had a call from from my new neighbour earlier. Turns out it wasn't a treatment plant I saw being lowered into his front garden that I saw driving by. It was in fact a giant LPG tank! ? He's still got a big "hole in the ground" like us but the vendors had it emptied before he bought it. Has said he may be considering a treatment plant at some time in the future. Back to square one.

'Cos they're brilliant. The floor board screws just work.

Just make sure that your UFH pipes are very well secured so they don't lift / bend and end up poking through the top of the screed.

You can afford it! ?

Just when they thought it was all over... I was going to dump the tile off cuts: I've got these and 5 boxes of 10 unused tiles. (Long story, but I got more than ordered). Got to decide what I'm doing in the cupboard. Well, I want to tile it...SWMBO wants to "save the tiles for when we do the ensuite"...like 50 tiles are going to go very far! They'd finish off the cupboard though. Maybe a full width, removable panel mid way up the rear wall, so I can get to the supply valve and my arm in to the back of the Geberit still. I might tile around as far as as the vertical slot where the loo rolls are going to stack

I was thinking on those lines. Steeper the angle the greater the spacing needs to be to avoid shadowing.