Onoff

Are you digging the lake there or clearing for the house? Edit: Half recalling the lakes are already there, old quarry pits weren't they? River fed? Think that can be better for GSHP than a static body of water. Didn't you have issues finding an existing slab on made up ground? How deep and is it your lake or shared?

Half acre on a slope I could just berm down by the road and move the house back!

Wish I had a lake.

Engineering bricks with holes in...thread the pipe through the bricks? How to hold in place...expanding foam seems best but hardly environmentally friendly. Cable ties friendlier? Would want the UV proof ones I'd say if the lake is a bit shallow.

Presume you've found this link: http://docs.pimusicbox.com/en/latest/manual/

Just reading about one that uses "special stainless steel weights". My fabricator would happily quote for st/st "polos" I'm sure. How about tying a st/st wire rope to the pipe? 8mm wire rope is about 0.25kg/m. Could float the loop out into the lake suspended under plastic water containers then cut the "strings" so it sinks.

Does the pipe need to be weighted down?

Daft question...couldn't you have just tanked the box and put a lid on it?

The sci-fi author Harry Harrison depicted literal living walls in his Eden books series. The dominant species on Earth being bipedal reptiles, they grow their buildings (and even transport) from genetically modified plants and animals. Very carbon neutral I imagine. No, I've not taken anything this morning!

@Bitpipe, any updates on how your system is fairing in use? Guessing garden use and washing cars is it? Interesting thoughts about bugs multiplying in there and aerosolizing in use from a wc flush, spray handset etc. Do you worry, guard against that?

Another reason to visit and see your ewi! V.nice.

Scored some 30mm Kingspan leftover on a site. Original wall in the cupboard so out of plumb I did two layers of 30mm on the top half with blobs of low expansion foam. Lower down 1 layer of 30mm and a full bed of nom 20mm expanding foam behind. I'll let dry, cut level then wash the bird sh!t off before foil taping a bit of vcl for good measure and boarding. "Fire up the Lidl drywall gun!" https://www.flickr.com/photos/122042403@N05/46882470425/in/dateposted-public/

Until @Bitpipe's dry mix comment I was thinking to insert some cut down scaffold boards the height of the flint panels, width is about spot on, then infill the column with a wet mix.Once removed it'd leave a nice recess for my flintwork. These will be actual flints, a lot with fossils in, collected by SWMBO's geologist cousin before his death so it'll have a sentimental element.

I'm thinking to Ta. What ratio?

Around the outside of the pillar sure but if I infill with concrete won't the damp creep up through that? Saying that I'll add waterproofer as I always do.

Move the window too so everything's symmetrical I would. ?

Only for the 1st 3 courses.

Anyone care to calc the loss of 150mm pir with 25mm eps underneath? Cheers.

Thanks all so far! Daft question: If I fill with mass concrete won't that defeat any dpc?

I was thinking to use these st/st helical wall ties cut down to to say 400mm: Did wonder whether I could use standard wall ties set at 45deg on each corner?

I presume it's something to do with stopping the salts/effervescense? Why not do the whole column I wonder?

Playing with some card & glue:

Can't you just have a bottle of Carex at the main sink and wash your hands there? IGNORE everything I've said. For some reason I thought you were wanting two sinks in there!

No more than usual!

Looks like a neat, near dust free install method for fitting UFH in existing concrete floors but guessing the losses downward (& to the side?) must be pretty large without decent insulation in the floor make up?