Onoff

Slippery slope...Skynet etc

Trying to think of reasons to stay out of the house at the moment! Multiple threads likely!

What all over? Doesn't that affect the mortar bonding to them or do you just paint the faces when laid?

I liked DS as it was a near 100% clone of AutoCAD. Transition time was seconds rather than minutes. So much so I had to wonder sometimes what package I was in. Then though it got quirky, wouldn't run properly on my Linux installs and so on. The constant wanting to "phone home" and verify registration was annoying but manageable. AutoCAD is also a pita the way it recognises a drawing created in Draftsight as "alien" and won't let you edit solids created in DS. Their loss!

So it would be helpful for the OP to know the full build-up.

But what have you then got on top in terms of ventilation gap if any and roof membrane?

Cheap seats here!

How deep are your rafters? If 150mm then 100mm pir max...I think.

Nasty Wickes wood battens on and plumb/level. Quick coat of white in the bit you'll see if ever accessing the pipe/valve to the wc: Ran out of gun foam Will get a can in the morning and try and get it all insulated and boarded.

Don't drink coffee or smoke...body's a temple etc.

Until it's 100% finished I find myself somewhat anally retentive whilst in there. Not to say I haven't thought about it but I get cold feet. Maybe when the UFH is up and running...

I'll have a large doner if you like tonight then video how effective the Geberit/Bernstein combo is at shifting the results...

Reckon I need to come up a good bit with engineering bricks to make 6" above ground! That's about 8 courses if 600mm. Might just do 3 courses then wrap the base 2' out of the ground in a black membrane and just cut it to the eventual ground slope. A bit like a post saver. Made a faux pas way back with the posts. After welding I ran gear oil down inside them so all faces were coated. I then gun foamed the insides. Why I don't know. Means the grey painted face condensates quite a bit. Think I'll paint with black bitumen before doing the brickwork.

It would appear that Draftsight is no longer free for what was a useful 2D CAD program! I've read it had been become a bit of a loss leader to the detriment of other products. I think it's in the SolidWorks stable now. Barstewards!

Don't really like the look of them, too smooth and shiny and they don't match the garage pillars.

Sevenoaks but I'll be doing it all myself and not getting anyone in. Option 1: - 3 courses smooth red engineering brick - F2 bricks thereafter Option 2 - F2 bricks all the way, straight off the concrete base. Mocked up with a few Celcon block. If a DPC goes down not sure on just a strip one the width of the "bricks" or a big one piece one, the area of the pillar itself: I will make a Bricky esque tool that clamps to the 100 x 100 post that you slide up to ensure complete dimensional accuracy and a constant thickness mortar bed. I also thinking about infilling with mass concrete at least up to "Tesco van bumper height". I need to be VERY sure all my ducts for brick lights, intercom, sensors etc are in place beforehand and that there's eps blocks or similar in place in lieu of bricks to be dug out later for the brick lights.

I have a German pan though not with the "inspection shelf". It's a Bernstein and the wc frame within the wall is Geberit. Pan is now £195 delivered. 3 videos: Soft close: Number 1 flush: I've not yet tried it "for real" with a proper, big number zwei, seems quite a good flush? Not adjusted any flush rates all settings just straight out of the box:

Or make the shower hose long enough to reach...

I'd change your diet mate! ?

I've 470mm wall side to the centre line. Loads of room. My pan's 365mm wide. Half of that 182.5mm. If I had your 540mm sink side that'd be 540-182.5 = 357.5mm. Quite a few v.narrow basins about e.g: https://www.bigbathroomshop.co.uk/milano-dalton-white-modern-square-wall-hung-basin-280mm-x-280mm-1-tap-hole-70042

You're going to be fighting mill scale where it's not rusted. I'd mechanically wire brush as best as and wipe down with panel wipe/thinners or white spirit at a push & let dry. Tbh hammer finish would be my choice. Not necessarily Hammerite, imo it's gone right downhill. Flag brand hammer paint is pretty good. Best hammer finish I've ever used though Firwood 130 from a firm in Bolton. Make it a feature and do it in gold, it'd look like the inside of the Nautilus! https://www.firwood.co.uk/categories/industrial-paints/hammer-metallic-effect-finishes/product/firwood-130-rapid-dry-hammer-finish/130

So the steel stays red oxide finish?

How's the steel going to be finished? Will you do that before you fit the treads or trial fit the treads and remove/refit?

Thanks. You're meaning say 3 courses for instance of (red) engineering bricks first?

Sorted: https://www.bucksfreepress.co.uk/news/17579712.bucks-beauty-spots-being-used-for-dogging/