Onoff

I've actually used one where it started to collapse whilst on it which I guess put me off. Maybe I didn't lock the sections correctly. I was given it with no instructions etc. Years back.

I think they are great as loft ladders where they're fix at the top.

Not a collapse I should add, maybe a tread grip issue?

Dangerous crap imo: https://www.tradingstandards.uk/news-policy/news-room/2017/warning-after-safety-tests-lead-to-over-32-000-telescopic-ladders-being-withdrawn-from-sale

And mesmerising at the same time... ?

Same T1200 mower as mine. Hopefully have mine back running soon having only just got two broken, bastard 1/4" studs out earlier today.

Here: One side of the house: - 3x WC's go into the bottomless pit. - New bathroom basin, bath and shower into the bottomless pit. - Ensuite basin and shower into the bottomless pit. - Cloak basin onto the garden. Other side of the house: Kitchen sink, wm & dw just empty onto the garden under a big bush. It can chuck up.

F360 sounds similar to AutoCAD. I can create solids in seconds. To create say a cylinder it breaks down into: Draw a circle the OD of your cylinder Draw a circle the ID of your cylinder at the same origin Change the view to isometric as in SW, SE etc. In effect you've created two solids rods EXTRUDE both to the desired length SUBTRACT the smaller dia cylinder from the larger. There's also a specific cylinder function that's a bit quicker. I like Acad as as well as icons you can do the same thing via the COMMAND LINE. I guess it harks back to DOS days.

SWMBO loves a bit of bleach in water to do the working surfaces, tiles etc. Also after cleansing by the loos they get a squirt of bleach around the rim/pan. What do you use instead?

The Evolution saw cuts the bricks a treat. Sadly two cuts per brick as I need slightly under a half bricks length to match a brick's width. Just dry stacking to get a feel for things Going to be fun keeping this all stable before I inlay the flints!

Thanks. Although I'm using 2010 I learnt on 2000 / 2000i so still use "classic" mode.

I remember struggling with converting from 2D to 3D in AutoCAD. Discovering the EXTRUDE command was a revelation! I have no issue modelling 3D in AutoCAD. It's the thought of learning something new! I reckon something that converts from a 3D AutoCAD model to a .STL file might be the kiddie. (My boy is au fait with Solid Works. Our industrial partner uses Solid Edge).

3D CAD as in within AutoCAD?

Ta. That last bloody one gets me, us being AONB!

A question or two. When modelling in 3D within AutoCAD I can SLICE solids on a plane if I just want a chunk to work with. Similarly I can merge two solids into one. Is it possible to take two different designs of 3D model from say thingiverse or yeggi and plagiarise just the bits I want from each? What software do I need (to learn)? Though Makita battery adapters are ten a penny I'm struggling though at the mo to find a print that will slot into the bottom of the Ferrex tool from Aldi I just bought. I could, but don't really want to, buy a 2Ah battery from Aldi and use the ready made top half but at £15 it's twice the price of the tool!

Any pics of the timber frame construction supporting everything? As in pre the floor going on. Might help @zoothorn on here who's aiming for something similar on his stream bank. +1, I thought 30m2 was the limit? Tbh I'd have expected it to have been built on piers...

A few post midnight thoughts... What should I fill the pillars with? I can do a ballast/OPC or sharp sand/opc mix. I've even got a yard of 10mm pea shingle here. Still very tempted to use up the 10 or so old, out of date (plastic) bags I have here of opc, just to get rid and maybe add copious amounts of SBR to make sticky. Thinking wet better than a dry mix...pourable almost. Once the pillar is built and set it shouldn't burst...should it? Or should I pour in stages? Excuse too to buy a cheap poker.

My mate built a kiddie pool much as you're suggesting using blocks and a liner. The liner he had made to fit and it is a perfect fit to the dimensions he gave the company. No wrinkles etc once filled.

Quite impressed with the No Nonsense degreaser from Screwfix. Used to clean the flat roof pre repair painting and on the Golf engine bay too. If desperate for a quick degrease I'll use foam gun cleaner. Acetone I think it is.

Thanks. 4:1, building sand to opc. Maybe a tad too wet but not by much I don't think. Figured a nice, strong mix. Mixed up with Everbuild Integral Waterproofer, 1 part to 20 parts water. I'm pre soaking the bricks too before laying. Reckon tbh I can stiffen the mix up a bit. Tomorrow, I, or the lad , will need to weld a chunky angle on the front face after a couple of courses so I can set back the front face by half a brick for 11 courses. Going to see how well the Evolution saw halves bricks with the diamond blade fitted...might need a mask... This is the actual model of where it's going albeit with 4 courses of footing bricks: The opposite face will have a large, inset control panel affixed to the post so I'll need to come up with some sort of lintel for that and make a wooden box the same size to brick around then remove.

Made a start with the footing brick 4 courses. Tbh a 50/50 effort by my lad & I. Didn't realise, until now, that the 100x100 post is slightly "twisted", so the pillar is too. Difficult with the jig to do the vertical joints so I did those with a mortar gun. I'm not worrying about excess mortar falling inside as that'll be filled with a sticky, wet concrete mix later. I'm using stainless, Staifix wall tiles every 3rd course, across the 4 corners. Pre pointing up/ cleaning the faces off: Bump...how many courses high, can I safely lay in one go? Cheers

My local Aldi at Sevenoaks. Have these 20V cordless multi tools in for just £7.99. down from I think £25. I bought it without a battery (£15) and without a charger (£?). Looks alright. Quick change tool holder. Bought as another "one day" project. As in design and make a 3D printed adapter to use Makita 18V batteries. Or wait until someone else designs one!

I learnt on AutoCAD 2000 / 2000i. Did 3 years at night school paid by the firm. Year one we were made to take copious dictated notes (that I still have) which at the time seemed laborious but it's stood me in good stead. I remember being told there were 11 ways to draw an arc and thinking why, I'll never use them? I reckon I've used them all since then! Damn pity they're making Draftsight paid for only soon. Closest thing I've found to an AutoCAD clone.

Some of the adhesives are super strong. Standard CT1 is a goto for many here. Leave for 72 hours before wiggling for best results. CT1 Power Grab n Bond for sticking heavier things. Sticks Like Sh!t is alright too. I just fixed a neighbours leaking plastic oil tank with Evo Stik The Dog's B@ll@cks after first cleaning the surface with isopropyl alcohol. Been done a couple of months now. Top tip, wipe 'silicone' off with baby wipes (credit to @Nickfromwales). Make sure your visible crack in the slate is filled or you might let water in that'll freeze.

You could incorporate a nice bottle raft in the shed base: