Onoff

Thanks. I've a vague recollection of my Bricky tool being 10mm. Something in the back of my mind says it starts off at 12mm and when the brick goes on it squashes down to 10.....

Is 10mm enough of a mortar thickness between my column bricks? Just knocking up a jig.

Ta. Any precautions with this stuff. Doesn't exactly look benign according to the safety data sheet! A little concerned too as to the effects on wildlife if it runs off onto the garden: 75448.pdf

Just gone to make this up. Are those ratios correct? If it's 20g to 100ml then isn't it 200g/1000ml, 1000g/5000ml. Cheers

I imagine if you pay close attention to the junction where the multipanel comes down on the tray then using mrpb behind will be fine. I think the multipanel vertical joins are pretty foolproof but the bottom edge seal people on here don't rate and do something else instead. There's a specific thread/comment on that somewhere on here. @ProDave and @JSHarris know the score.

2000L?

The print quality on this diagram 3 in the Wrekin manual is dire. I can't read what it says ref the check valve. As best as I can decipher it says: "Check valve <something> required if <something> part of <something> and bypass valve". I suppose I could email Wrekin.

Us too. The badgers have just started excavating the lawn at night to get at them.

I Aqua Panelled then tanked the whole lot using the Aqua Seal kit. Tile adhesive went on no problem. Seems to have stuck. Believe me, we're giving the wet room corner a serious bashing.

I'm thinking 15mm might not actually be big enough! Just roughly measured the waste run and it's about 6m up out of the cupboard, across the loft to the eaves. Thereafter, where it'll go I don't know. Thinking a larger bore drain pipe down to a drain. As it's draining hard elements could you get a "stalactite" issue at the exit pipe?

Well it powers up... Guess take it into the garden and get the hose connected then run through the commission & start up and see what happens? Wondering if I could reuse the 15mm in the wall (goes up into the loft) as the drain? Then feed the WC off the new 22mm pipe?

The requirements for the drain are min 1/2" dia, use 3/4" pipe if the total length exceeds 6m. Elsewhere it says "not more than 6m". Does say to keep the distance of the incoming main and drainage "to a minimum". However...I can it seems take the drain line UP as in into the loft maybe? Just playing with positioning it: To the right: Might make getting the linen bit out awkward: Maybe this way? I've got a 15mm copper coming down in the wall. Looking to do 22mm, one pipe down and one back up. I can either rip the back wall out and redo or run new 22mms up inside the stud wall and have the bypass valves in there:

The switch next to the bath is going to sound louder and more "tinny" I guess as it's echoing off of the tiles. This is the switch fitted to the pb as you walk into the bathroom: VID_20190728_143620273.mp4 VID_20190728_143620273.mp4

Some pull cords are louder. Depends on the substrate and surrounding wall finishes with these switches.

Isn't it corvids that are themselves corvoid?

Old thread on the subject: It would appear they do do a wider choice of finishes but maybe not in the UK:

Apologies ref the video quality. This is an IP6* rated one by my bath: This (again a video, click to play) is just a switch held against the wall:

Say you've a garage with power but no outside lighting. Fit a Quinetic light on the garage, powered from the garage. Fit the switch in the house by the back door looking down the garden...or next to the French doors or outside on the wall. Lying in the bath wishing you could dim the lights...fit an IP rated switch...also put one IN the shower cubicle. Got an existing switch and you wish you had another the other side of the room... Made a mistake in positioning the existing switch... List is endless.

Just to confuse things Quinetic do a version of switch that will fit an MK grid plate: They do similar for Varilight Power Grid:

"wining"?

You said you don't want "smart" but they do do WiFi compatible receivers too: QURW01_Data_Sheet.pdf

+1 for Quinetic. I too am using the dimmer switches with the non dimming receivers. For my bathroom, 1 gang of a two gang dimmer switch signals a dimming receiver for the main downlights. The other gang signals a non dimming receiver that does the feature LED lighting.

Is it a typo maybe when they meant 160mm?

Seems you multiply the sodium content by 2.5 to get the salt figure. I'd say not though it tastes, at least to me, "different", "smoother" maybe? We've just come back from a week away where everything was softened and that's prompted me to relook at fitting this one I got from Peter. Having a "with hindsight moment here! Adjacent to the new bathroom is a long corridor, hived off from an original large bedroom by the previous owner. The new bathroom is to the right in the picture below. The cupboard in the new bathroom is just the other side of the (solid brick, circa 300mm) wall where the extension lead is. This pic is taken in the L shaped hall. You go through the door at the bottom right, forefront of the picture into the stairs room and turn left into the new bathroom. I've not got access to a better drawing at the moment but this is when I was messing around with reinstating the original bedroom door off of the hall and making the hall a short straight by removing the L. Was thinking to maybe have half the corridor as a wardrobe and the other half as a small shower/WC. The door to the new bathroom is off the stairs room. Ignore the doorway in the other wall. That's the doorway I blocked up and where the wall hung WC sits now. So as you walk into the new bathroom the cupboard for the softener is on your immediate left. The hatched areas are timber floors. The stairs and bathroom concrete. Thinking run the waste for the softener maybe through the wall into the hall and along to the outside wall. Could recess into the hall wall then go under the hall floor?

I thought the NHS guideline was 6,000mg/day?