Onoff

What was I thinking! When I brought home and reassembled the freebie shed above (first mistake) I left a 4' wide dugout bit for a "mower shed". I mean seriously, 4' wide, what use is that? Should I just get the rest dug out and double the shed size to something useable? At the mo it's 10'x8' As per the start of the thread half a plan to cast the dwarf walls in waterproof concrete as it'll be cut into the slope:

My trusty albeit much abused wheelbarrow. Rotary wire brushed and flap disc'd the frame. Got No2 daughter to etch prime it with a rattle can yesterday. Then in a big clear up I came across some green gloss paint left by the previous owner. Opened it up to an oil slick on top. Mixed it up and it was lumpy like porridge! Today I stuck it through a kitchen sieve (sanctioned) and employed some slave labour: But what to do with the old galvanised tub? It's rotted thru at 4 points. Let's be honest, cutting out a rectangle and TIG welding a new panel in is overkill. Thinking just 4 big square washers maybe bonded with CT1? Quick rotary wire brush and galvanising spray underneath:

Nearly took a tumble in the wet room corner myself the other night. Note to self, never shower inebriated! Something contemporary like this (Argos):

Seriously they look like gas burner pliers but never seen them with 3 "holes".

Vintage depocsterer that. Crying out for a bath in hot citric acid to bring it back to it's former glory.

You don't need to prime or undercoat with Bedec MSP but it does need 2 to 3 coats. I wonder if they skimped on that? Data sheet for it here: MSP-technical-data-sheet.pdf

This would be a good buy to supply an electrolysis tank. Pity I'm not nearer: https://www.gumtree.com/p/welding-equipment/old-stick-welder-/1347597725

Left my lad to figure my wiring out, which he did. Slapped in a couple of 12V mower batteries in series. Must be 15 years since he's driven it. Can't find one of the drive chains at the mo so it's a bit slow.

Mate jokingly offered me his old bath tub the other day. (I'm a known hoarder and taker in of other people's crap! ) Though I turned him down I'm rethinking it as I reckon the Focus rear cross member might fit in it.

A vintage, leather worker's stitch marker. In at 13.15hrs: Out for a look see at 13.45hrs: Leaving it in hoping the adjuster screw will loosen up. Tbh it looks like it should be behind glass in a museum!

Smartarse! ?

Done in a rush about 15+ years ago when work took precedence over children. Probably on the fly/back of a fag packet. (At work I'm totally anal about wiring diagrams being left in panels). Also I didn't number anything! From memory the motors run on 24vdc (4 batteries) and the headlights on 12vdc (1 battery). The trailer plug allows charging of all 5 batteries at 12vdc via a golf cart charger. A link plug makes makes everything 24vdc again. Can't find the wiring diagram if I even did one one for love nor money!

Just a wee update, the £59.95 was taken late on the 4th for the Cogkart printer. Let's see if it turns up!

How about simply more 50mm battens behind? Like mini I beams at each gap. The inner ones would I guess need cutting to suit if the door is ledged and braced. Think I'd still fill the gaps with something soft.

Believe me I've considered digging a pool size tank before now. You have to be Hellishly careful when acid dipping shells to rinse everything properly. One of the lads had his 280 Brooklands dipped and acid trapped between the panels leeched out later and ruined it. There was no comeback either with the dipping company.

No worries. I'll knock up a drive in size electrolysis tank just for you!

Time rich cash poor like me? I've actually done it like this using strands from SWA. Use a "hook" from a hook Rawlbolt or bend something up. I'll maybe do a video clip tomorrow.

So if the 33kV line heats the ground that much it should heat the lake up a bit.....suggest a ground loop?

Good point. You can I think get safety film to help address this.

Just seen this thread. I've used Bedec Barn Paint on new fresh wood and it's perfect after 5 years (see your shed gap thread). I've not used Bedec Multi Surface Paint. However.....I recommended the barn paint to a mate who went over his "already painted with something else" fence to change the colour and the Bedec Barn Paint didn't take well and flaked.

I used black Cuprinol on the edges and ends (by standing in a bucket so the end grain sucked it up). Then 3 coats of black satin Bedec barn paint on the rest of the wood. It's superb stuff (and reassuringly expensive). New Zealand Deck Stain gets good reports too:

Bottom line is the guy who did it was a bit inexperienced. Should have done a continuous tongue and groove like I did on my gate using 6mm marine ply. Glued one side only. Been like this 5 years and perfect. The boards can expand and contract as they like and no gaps. Thinking about your situation then your boards I junk might still expand / contract. If your 50mm strip is affixed over the gap but to both boards I wonder if, over time the strips will split? I might be tempted to fit 70m strips but to one side of the gap only. Then it can slide over the adjacent board to allow for movement. Only worry there is will the boards, affixed one side, "curl"? How about, as a cheap "try": Buy a few tubes of the cheapest black silicone and put that in the gaps finishing with a decent Fugee tool.

Just fished this lot out of the heated tank. Pre rinsing but you can see how good it is: What I recall from using Deox-C was that pretty much everything came out with a black, greasy film on it, that would stain anything. It came off easy enough with a scrub. This citric acid though seems to leave a nice, clean matt grey surface for the most part. I do note the two flat wood bits are a bit black/greasy. Random bits from a tap to the old, heavily rusted coach screws off the freebie satellite dish. Of course, things like the plane blades would be further wet & dried then kept oiled. To reuse the coach screws outside they would ideally need replating. Happy with the process all in all. For now I've rinsed the tank out and dumped all the bits in an unheated plastic bucket with the solution where it'll continue to do its thing albeit at a slower pace.

At the 5.5hr mark. Both pullies spin freely. Pretty much ready to mask up and etch prime!

After 1 hour: The liquid takes on a green tinge, darkening as it loses its efficiency / gets contaminated by the rust coming off. This is just what Deox-C does. Reading the Deox-C instructions again and it contains "detergents". I'm thinking this might be to help lift oily rust. Tempted to put a squirt of Fairy in my little tank. Coming up on 3 hours in there at 70degC: I've also thrown in a few equally rusted hand plane blades, an old leather punch, a hammer head etc.