Onoff

Just a small, pedantic point but I'd have used bootlace ferrules on all the wires going into the terminal blocks. Also those black and white leads, I'd have trimmed the insulation back to have just 10mm poking above the gland. And that brown wire going to the top of the relay is a bit taut. And yes, use insulated crimps. Some cable markers would be good too... ?

I've been having stuff galvanised for over 30 years now and to my knowledge they acid dip to remove mill scale before galvanising. The only time I've had stuff shot blasted is prior the zinc flame spraying or painting. ALL steel I have put on site is either galvanised (the majority) or zinc flame sprayed. Never, ever, not in a million year just painted. Even if I'm powder coating then it'll be zinc flame sprayed or galvanised underneath. Imho I think it is total b@llocks that powder coating over blasted steel is good long term if there is any chance of the coating being damaged. (As moisture then gets in).

@NewToAllOfThis, whereabouts in the UK are you?

? Ignore me, I thought it was a bond to the pipe.

Shop around and you'll get it for £70

So does the enclosure lid squash that earth wire?

Based on that size UC, my fabricator said: "£1500 per tonne plus £700 per ton for galv but depends on the drilling and amount of holes"

Needs to all come off and be redone imo. ?

As long as the biggest box / socket required will fit later on. Think this is 46mm (more commonly use on Land Rovers I believe).

Google "parapet jib" and "parapet clamp".

...I thought it was part of his transitioning?

Makita do an 18V compressor in their LXT range.

Cut my Aqua Panels with a cheap old Nu-Tool circular saw with a TCT blade. That and carbide grit edged jigsaw blades. https://www.toolstation.com/tungsten-carbide-grit-jigsaw-blades/p67688?

Dunno, I thought it was filled hollow blocks with reinforcing rods... ???

Isn't the wall construction an important detail too?

Pillock! Your hole in the ground, height between levels, details of adjacent walls etc. Not your imaginary friend! ?

I bought a set of the cheapo diamond grit edged holesaws then a couple slightly bigger. Made a template that the tile dropped into then used that to cut the tile. Fill with water & drill: Cheap ceramics but the cut is perfect:

I'm thinking rather than take your boards off just cut to fit and stick on a bit of tanking membrane. There's a pick somewhere of one @Nickfromwales did. Edit: Found it!

...just edited my post to add about the cover plate width.

Mine and Dave's cover plates are the same make. They're not that wide to cover necessary future access holes hence the accuracy. Besides, cutting sharp internal corners and aren't the tiles more likely to crack? & don't use CT1 to stick the cover plate on unless you don't want to ever get it off again. Use ordinary clear silicone.

Not what I heard... As Dave says. Tile neatly cut. I can get all the necessary tools to dismantle, remove cartridges etc Horseshoe of silicone, open at the bottom:

Risk is the pole bending and or it pulling away from the wall. A diagonal tie back to a strong point able to take the load guards against this. Still needs a counterweight.

I found that putting the tiling off until 4 years after I'd laid the concrete slab i.e allowing everything to settle, prevented the finished floor from dropping..... ?

Tell me about it. In there for hours, all the hot water gone, everywhere drenched and the wall drain clogged here. How hard can it be to kick the towel around the floor when she's finished?

Where is your vcl in this section...or isn't there one?