Onoff

I believe they're quite hardy?

I think if want it raked back a bit rather than vertical.

I've not even measured the run yet let alone work out what size. Tbh I might have done but have forgotten. That and I never date my fag packet sketches and calcs. First Flickr photo ref the gates is from 2010 when I went and collected my galvanised frame! I'd forgotten there were old wooden gates there.

? I just know I'm going to hit steel judging by what was sticking out when I did a French drain along the side. I've got a re-bar bit but it's only a foot long. Figured one big 'ish duct. No harm in trying to get through with the long 24 I suppose.

I might look to run other stuff in its own smaller duct within the bigger one.

RCBO...

With me it's can, not should I.

That ladder hoist I linked to just now is dead easy. Low component count too. Decent industrial ladder bolted to the wall. Cheapo engine hoist. Some Unistrut supporting a 1m x 1m lifting deck. What's the worst that can happen? ?

Erm...I asked what kit not what angle. Looks sh!t. No fun.

This has merit: Check out Geda ladder lifts too.

My garage when built had no provision for power so consequently I gave the swa from the house to the garage on a catenary. It's temporary, as in "my" temporary! ? Of more immediate concern is that I get "proper" power down to the gates. Plan is ducted swa but I need to drill down through the concrete floor then the footings at an angle. Trenching from the garage is no issue and I've a man with digger lined up. Pea shingle, cable tape, duct etc all ready to go. I've been putting this off for a while tba (unlike me). The swa could come straight out of the garage front pillar, down into the duct but I don't want that! Nor along the fence etc. That's just cr@p. What kit do I need to get / hire? Assuming a diamond core drill and I'd spray a hose on it? I've only ever got drillers in at work with their clamp down rigs and then only ever for vertical homes down/up through slabs. Not fussed about making a mess in the corner of the garage. Guessing the vertical depth from the garage floor to where the hole exits the footings will be about 600mm deep? All I have here is a 1m long 24mm SDS bit. If I hit any old iron etc that's been chucked in the footings that'll be no good. Last time I did similar was when I did the water main in the house through thinner footings and it was a mission. I did it but it was bloody hard work with a cheap, dry TCT toothed dry bit and ad hoc extension bars. 63mm duct btw. Cheers

Hollow or solid blocks? I'd invest in a Bricky maybe. A doddle to use honestly. https://bricky.com/ Stainless steel wall starters maybe instead of complicated interlocking? I'd go for complicated interlocking mind ?). If using lightweight blocks like Celcon you can cut them really accurately with a bfo block saw. Either do 4 shallow cuts round the block and the saw will follow these or knock up a wooden box/big to slide the block in. (The "proper" brickys will just use a club hammer and bolster). Can't remember the make of my saw. Well used and the World and his wife have borrowed it. Something like this: https://www.toolstation.com/irwin-concrete-hardpoint-saw/p43010? Corner beads must be stainless steel or they'll rust and show through. Render will cover all your mistakes!

Did you pay up front or stick it on the slate?

Can you construct a French drain?

It stems from BS7671. In the 18th edition it's regulation 433.2.2 (page 90 of the one I have in front of me). (Don't forget the regs aren't statutory but may be used as a defence in law etc). Put a switched fuse in between the meter and cu if wanting more than 3m.

Just pick a detector with a relay output (like an Aico with optional module) and disable the inbuilt sounder. (Don't interconnect the alarm either). Use the relay to switch off the MVHR and a warning light on maybe. https://www.aico.co.uk/product/ei128r-hard-wired-relay-module/

Tell me about it!

Give me the sizes when you do it and I'll knock you one up with brass eyelets and a drawstring. Got loads of old covers like this.

Mate served in Iraq told me it was de rigueur for the locals to cover mains junctions with a "carrier bags" up on roof tops. Not a good idea as though it rains infrequently the bags quickly go brittle. The mains junctions are often nothing more than bare wire ends twisted together. He said they'd take it in turns to naked sunbathe (helmet on, weapon to hand) whilst on stag. More than once he'd been awoken by an unfortunate bird or rat disturbing the crumbling plastic bag with inevitable results.

On a serious note if said winch is left outside it will pay to make or get made a loose vinyl cover. Been using this lot for over 30 years: http://sailmakers.co.uk/ I'm sure there'll be someone similar in your neck of the woods. (As an indicator how good they are they worked on the Cutty Sark after the fire a few years back).

I've used a lot of Ever White...it's still white. Evo-Stik The Dog's B*ll*cks Crystal is also pretty good imo. Another one that feels totally different to ordinary silicone. More like a "gel" like CT1. I fixed a neighbours leaking heating oil tank with it too. Still good.

Thanks. Not sure if it can be sat straight on the Ultrabase...making enquiries now...

Nice quilted bog roll, a Readers Digest and maybe some wet wipes to smooth things along then!

Fwend!

Guessing an Assignment Of Rights "deal"? https://www.affordablewarmthscheme.co.uk/air-source-heat-pump-grants/#:~:text=Air Source Heat Pump Grants in England%2C Scotland and Wales,systems to electric heating systems.