Onoff

Just bought a new smart TV. (Medion, not expensive and intentionally not so. Better than the one it replaced and it won't matter if it gets knackered when we do the lounge diner knock through). Anyway, the sound isn't up to much. It's OK but could do with a bit more depth. These are the TV connections: I just happen to have an old Cambridge Soundworks 4 Point Surround Sound kit. Sounded pretty good back in the day on the old pc. It's all now discoloured off white but nothing a quick spray with some plastic primer and satin black won't sort! These are the connections: How best to connect the TV? Taking the analogue, stereo headphone output to feed the 4 point seems a bit too simple. I have SPDIF optical out and HDMI as options. Any magic box that'll go between the two? Cheers

Looks spot on with that vertical grout line dead central ?

I'll badger him again when he's back from uni in December.

Presumably the pan and bog roll holder will be going in later!

I wanted my lad to do something with them so I could have them all over the house, in different rooms etc. Then to be able to read them on my mobile phone, ideally overlaid on a plan of the house i.e a flash gui. Guess he was too busy...

Now I'm no expert (on anything ?) but an option for temperature sensing system is I think a Raspberry Pi using DS18B20s: https://www.circuitbasics.com/raspberry-pi-ds18b20-temperature-sensor-tutorial/ My lad was messing with them and the code for his 3D printer enclosure, air intake, extract etc. I haven't got a clue "how to".

Cheap as chips jobbies that Amazon/eBay are awash with. No idea of the accuracy. The white wire just terminates at a little cylindrical sensor maybe 12mm X 3mm. Like this: Just slipped in and held against the copper pipe by the lagging

I've put a temperature probe just where the 28mm feed goes into the mid position valve (top). Then a second probe on the return (bottom), after the CH return tees into it. So nominally <5degC difference between flow and return. I've now put the pump on 2 to see what happens.

You'll need to narrow the list down for one! Secondly the boxing in "walls" will be quick release with studs coming out of the walls and wing nuts.

Good shout.

Thanks. No swept tees on these two rads and in/out at the bottom as aforementioned. That being said they do seem to have warmed up to an acceptable level eventually. 4 rads upstairs on the flow/return system are much hotter. 6 originals downstairs on the single pipe again hotter. The HW seems, well hotter in all honesty. I can only guess the coil was maybe crudded up? Out of interest I've placed a temperature sensor tucked under the pipe insulation on the return to the boiler after where the CH comes into the return, one of those little ones like @newhome used. It's reading 60deg c. Seems high. Is it maybe reading artificially high because of the insulation? Tbh, by the boiler where the flow and return pipes go up the wall into the loft the two pipes feel about the same temperature... bloody hot. The boiler stat is set to 65degC. Could it be I have the pump set too high, it's on 3? Yep, I have to pull the mag filter still to add the inhibitor. Was going to give it a week before doing so. Too long? Cheers

Don't be daft! ? This just makes it easier to do so as in I can isolate the section of downstairs CH pipe I'm aiming to feed the llh off of without draining down the whole system. The new rad, pump, pump valves, and balancing valve were unexpected bumps in the road. The power flush happened as it was available for what it cost me in petrol to collect / take back. Hopefully I have an all round healthier system now. If I can convince SWMBO I'll start excavating the stairs room floor next! Some irrational worry about the mess and time it'll take...

All up and running. Very quick to fill and bleed! 1 weep on an old, previously revisited 22mm ball valve on the downstairs CH up in the loft - should have replaced the olives rather than backing off and retightening with compound. Then another on the 15 of the 22/22/15 compression T beneath the new rad. Sorted now. An oddity though. I'd say on the downstairs single pipe system, out of 8 rads, 2 to 7 are hotter than previous. These 6 are plumbed in at the top and out at the bottom with swept tees. However, rad 1 being first after the boiler and rad 8 being last, are modern convector rads. These are on the single pipe but plumbed in at the bottom and out at the bottom. These are both bled but imo not as hot as before. Pump is set on speed 3 btw.

Parkside multi tool with an always on on/off switch!

Well it's about bleeding time! Answering my own questions here! ? Multi tooled off the 28mm olives. New valve on. Had to "ease" over the copper return pipe in the left. Hence the wooden packer. Nice fresh water, from a nice clean F&E tank, now refilling the system. A cuppa & something to eat then off leak hunting then bleeding! Just hope the tank fitting and soldered joints where I eased the pipe over hold up. Soul destroying if not. Just realised why occasionally an electric shower is worthwhile.

Shiret service then!

Is it a bad idea to reuse olives? Or is half hour with the multi tool the answer? ? I wouldn't usually but no original fittings here were done up using for instance Jet Blue Plus which I use now. That lubricates as well as seals and allows you to get the joint a bit tighter. New valve's a tad shorter!

New rad in, a tad on the pi$$ but then it matches everything else! It wasn't but it's ended up so... The first two coach bolts that came with the SF rad sheared in the SF supplied red plugs in the rad kit. 8mm hole my ar5e, the top half inch of the plug is a bigger dia! Blue plugs now and my coach bolts, 6 in total. So that's 8 compressions made/remade as I had to tweak one of the T's on the single pipe. I'll be watching them for leaks. Plus the 2 rad rails with 15 turns of PTFE tape on each. Off to do the balancing valve at the base of the cylinder now.

Going to go for x2 1L Sentinel X100 from TS. Plumbing forums seem to rate that and Fernox F1 which is twice the price.

Their No Nonsense stuff I presume you mean, they don't sell it anymore! Pity, I used to rate some of their other own brand gear (like their MDF Primer). Their No Nonsense gun foam is made by Soudal according to the MSDS as an aside. Looking at SF/TS locally: Qual Rad - 1L - £6.96 Flomaster - 500ml - £7.35 Corgi - 1L - £7.48 Sentinel X100 - 1L - £13.99 SF / £11.98 TS Fernox F1 - 500ml - £14.99 SF /£18.98 TS) Sentinel X100 - 5L - £51.99 Thinking x2 of the Corgi one? Never heard of Qual Rad and not keen on some Flomaster parts I've used (that fall apart).

Going to grab a new 28mm gate valve in the morning. Also some inhibitor. Lots to choose from. Any make better than another and how much do I need, a litre? Cheers

That's it for tonight. This more for my own thoughts: -ScaleBreaker disconnected -vent cap taken off expansion pipe to F&E tank -IntaKlean2 refitted -balancing valve opened half way -drained down from boiler and rads -last rad & brackets removed. This the one I couldn't bleed as the screw broke off. Mucky as but then I guess it was full of air? Maybe the flushing bypassed it because of this? New rad to fit in the morning. Fingers crossed that 28mm balancing valve doesn't leak..... some hope! Distracted now...Charleze Theron is getting it on with Sofia Boutella in Atomic Blonde...✂️?

Just called it a day I think. The citric acid loosened a load more up. Like I'd just started again! Had a proper flood along the way. Was topping up with the PFM lid unscrewed. Got distracted...went past MAX...wet vac time! If I dump the waste into a washing up bowl now I can see to the bottom. Ditto in the ScaleBreaker tank. The water has though a greenish tinge as I've noticed happens when I'm using citric acid to derust. Difficult to photograph. Half wondering whether to test the water acidity with some hot tub / aquarium test strips? So...I guess now I disconnect the PFM and put the magnaclean back in. Then drain down via the rads and boiler drain and get on replacing that rad. Think this might go into tomorrow! ?

A kilo of citric acid in 3L of hot water working it's way round now...

I do have 5L here of Kemiphos Super Blue de-scaler and cleaner that work let me have. Contains 48% phosphoric acid. A bit strong maybe...