Onoff

Looks good! ?

I used this type, had tbh a few misses where they just spun in the hole: https://www.screwfix.com/p/easydrive-countersunk-concrete-screws-7-5-x-100mm-100-pack/3839h An impact driver is a useful tool. For both making your stud frame and the concrete screws. You can probably get one to go on whatever cordless battery system you have. No no Does that 25mm step extend across the rest of the ceiling i.e beyobd the stud wall? You can get 15mm plasterboard.

Is it worth replacing the two room stats in the house, one upstairs & one down? Maybe something with a digital readout. For something more modern and just because I can!

I forgot to back butter the tiles when I did the wet room corner. Tbh I needn't have worried as they're solider than a solid thing. No hollows or nothing. Mind the surface was super flat. Think I used a 10mm notch and fully covered the tile backs. I did back butter the rest of the floor tiles mind. My biggest issue tbh was the fact I used too much adhesive I think. Probably squeezed more out that is left behind the tiles! If only I'd have used a levelling system...

Pre grouting you can use maybe use this if it bothers you: Tbh you can even do it after grouting which is what I think it's really meant for. (You drill a hole in the grout).

When your mistakes annoy you... This even makes mine look good!

Bloody forum putting these new fangled TS ideas into my head! ? I need a plan then, I mean I literally need a plan. If I can find (& finish) this unfinished drawing and show the lounge, rest of the kitchen, position of boiler as is, it might help me visualise things. Got a feeling this was done in Draftsight on an old Linux pc...stuff doesn't transfer well straight to AutoCAD for what I want to do with it.

Cleverer people will be along in a minute but a few thoughts: Such total waterproofing is called "tanking". This is the system I used: 2000x1500 might be a bit small for a wet room without screens. My ground, solid floor bathroom is nom 3000x3000. Wet room corner is nom 1.4x1.4 with floor laid to falls and a wall drain. I've no screens and unless you're careful water from the shower, (I've a handset and rainfall head) can go outside this area. The kids seem to get water 3m in any direction! One route is a 22mm thick wet room former that replaces a section of the existing floorboards. You in effect then tank over the whole lot before tiling. Picked at random: https://www.tradewetrooms.com/tough-x-1700x800x22mm-wetroom-shower-tray/#wetrooom-drain You should manage a wet room type floor with careful screening. Got a quick plan sketch of the room? @Nickfromwales, isn't there a make you rate?

Damn! All those questions I need to ask again... ?

My mistake.

Will do. Trouble is I have to likely take it out to do so. Cramped is an understatement. Very wary too of bringing down the platform that both tanks sit on. Pallet wood sat on 3 cross members nailed to the rafters.

Whoops! I couldn't have read that more wrong. Sorry there @Paul F! Deffo do not paint plastered walls before tiling. Proper tile primer.

Definitely some rusty crap in the bottom of the F&E tank. Now this tank was cleaned spotless and had the expansion pipe capped & the feed out turned off when I ran the PFM. So when I refilled the system it was fresh clean water that went into the system. This must have come up the expansion pipe. Is expansion "normal"? As in does it always happen? Maybe I just need to lower the tank level by adjusting the ball valves? Thanks

Btw, Leyland Leytex is superb as in it covers lovely and looks like a finished coat but it's "fragile". Needs a top coat.

Elderly parents? Wet room corner / plastic garden chair / garden hose. Sorted. ?

Up in the loft, balanced on a precarious wooden step ladder that came with the loft! All I can do is hold the phone above the rim at arms length. I can't actually get up there to peer in. Hoping against hope it's an illusion but that looks like rusty crap in the bottom from a pump over? Thinking to maybe lower the F&E tank level a tad? Going to try and get higher on the ladder whilst SWMBO holds the steps.

Hmmm...SWMBO thinks she saw water coming from the overflow earlier today. First told me it was yesterday! Don't think so luv the system was still in pieces! ? (Could I suppose have been the CWS...) One overflow visible externally that tees off to the F&E and CWS tanks. So which one was it? Hopefully not the CH pumping over into my nice clean header tank! Both ball valves recently renewed. Loft time again! Could it be to do with the fact I've turned the pump down to 2?

Boiler at pump speed 2 at the moment. Trying to get the differential up between flow and return.

Is yours Sigma: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6rQbSLDpRfg

The Geberit mechanisms look complicated to start off with (imho), then when you've figured it you wonder why anyone would do it any other way!

A bit lost as to why a llh wil struggle...it's ME not understanding! This is the generic guts of one then I've come across...struggling now to see how it would work even. YouTube it is later!

It was @Nickfromwales suggested the llh.

Roughly: Boiler room / conservatory Kitchen Lounge* Diner* Bedroom Bathroom Study area *Looking to knock through properly rather than partially as is now. Have to see whether I can get away with one loop. 1) Understood, just looked at a cutaway diagram 2) Generic white, 16mm Pex-Al-Pex, Polish I think. It got the OK on here when I got it. Think someone directed me to it even. 3) Understood. Ages ago I bought this below, and have just used the pump to replace mine on the CH. Thinking that if the old pump was just clogged I might be able to salvage it and use that on this or put it back on the CH and the black pump back on this. Assume that's a blending valve I see? In theory then I could just add a manifold to this? 4) Got it, maker/manifold dependent 5) My temporary! Can a llh than be used in place of a buffer as in because I have an oil boiler I need a buffer I believe? Wondering how big a llh I'd need to do 6/7/8 circuits if I was to get one now and be done with it. The CH system here is likely to stay rads upstairs and maybe a combination of UFH and rads downstairs.

UFH...baby steps here! Planning 8 downstairs circuits (eventually) so figured get an 9(10?) port manifold at least. Initially I'll be running just two circuits. The bathroom loop and the towel rail in the same bathroom. Plan is at the mo to feed a low loss header from the single pipe downstairs CH. The manifold will be fed from the llh. A few real newbie questions if I may: 1) Does using the llh mean I'll have two separate water circuits, one in the single pipe and then what's going through the manifold? 2) Eurocones.....I pick the size to suit the UFH pipe in this case 16mm. 3) Assume I'll need a separate pump. 4) Do I just blank off unused ports in the manifold and what with? 5) I'll want to run the towel rail "loop" hotter than the rest of the "real" UFH loops. Can I do that or does it need to come off of somewhere else? 6) To size the llh for the 1 loop and towel rail, what do I need to know/ do? Cheers

Cheers. So you're saying from the 3.5mm output on the TV take say R to the Front input on the speakers (and L to the Left)? This kit consists of a powered subwoofer and 4 satellites. Is it 4:1, 4.1:1? Really not sure. A Googling I go to find out! Thanks for the link, I was hoping to mount 2 satellites to the rear and some surround sound effect. Previously been looking at this, no good as it's not programmable? https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00NAJ4W2A/ref=sspa_mb_hqp_detail_mobile_aax_0?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I have an HDMI port with ARC on the TV.