Onoff

I've got some pucker descaler here, 48% phosphoric acid. You're welcome to a gallon.

Hence the binoculars...

I have been known to relax in there with Anne McCaffrey...

Working on it. SWMBO doesn't look happy does she!

I'm 6' 4 1/2", I can lie down comfortably in mine. If I doze off I slide under, it's that big.

Too late, I saw the "Did @Onoff fit it?" crack! My bog is spot on level. THAT one looks broken!

1800 X 800 here. Bunch of lightweights! Mark my words, one day I'll have enough HW to fill it!

This? https://www.bathshop321.com/voda-design-duke-acrylic-freestanding-bath-1600mm/?

Seems about twice the price of other similar ones. https://uniquekitchensbathrooms.com/products/harlesden-freestanding-bath-1455x750?

I've got nothing. Sorry to disappoint.

Everyone's entitled to their opinion.

My mistake! Yep, 300mm of EPS whould do the trick! You'll still want an EPS upstand around the slab edge where the UHF is.

I did: -Compacted Type 2 (well, home graded hard core through a 40mm sieve) -Sand blind -25mm EPS -DPM -150mm Celotex -Polypipe panels with 16mm pex-al-pex UFH -A2 mesh -100mm concrete+fibres laid with screed rails -Tiles I'm in two minds about the Polypipe panels as in whether to use them again. Cheap enough and they make running your UFH pipes a doddle. You end up with a lighter slab because of the castellations though. You save on concrete of course. With them of course you don't need a membrane between the top of the Celotex and wet concrete that goes on top. Little video of laying the pipe:

Tbh the boiler is built like a battleship and has given good service despite the neglect. The efficiency is pretty good too. No instant hot water like an oil combi would give but I figure less to go wrong at least with the boiler. Well I found out this morning this intumescent sealant is exactly that. Seemingly no adhesive properties particularly. Not sure what to do with those bits of fire rated pb I've "stuck" up there now. Pull them off, top with ply and screw through from underneath? Remove the coving where the cupboard will be maybe and overboard with one piece of fire rated pb? That'd neaten things up perhaps. Or is it really worth the hassle ?

? 1998 Warmflow Bluebird 90/120: I've repaired it...a bit:

Like that Mike Harding sketch, "Nice bit 'o cork!" Most ceilings here are Artex (no walls thankfully).

More insulation for a start! Interested in this too as I'll have a similar issue. I did half think to build up the void with well compacted Type 2 etc. But deffo more insulation.

Not my proudest moment! ? I cut a piece of fire resistant plasterboard, drilled two 32mm holes in it, then cut it again along the centerline of the holes. Squidged a load of Everbuild Firemate intumescent sealant on the top side of the existing on and pushed the cut bits down into the mess. IF it sticks I'll fill in round the pipe a bit. Even though this'll be in a cupboard it's still pretty unsightly! Haven't got any coving to suit but then even that's a bit rough. Maybe fill the whole area with fire rated foam and try and form the curve with it? Then there's the Artex ceiling...I'm sure it was the in thing at the time.

You're confused? How about retitling "Bathrooms Start"? According to St Nick I think you aren't supposed to look directly at the grout lines in the pockets up the sides. The side tiles should cover the one at the back (like mine does). Back tiles go in first. Then bottom, top and finally sides. ?

Tbf he didn't specifically say where it happened just that it did.

Drill a hole?

That new chrome angle is L shaped. Does it wrap over the front tiles and the ones that line the sides of the pockets? Imagine

Herringbone would have been much more forgiving..

Are the angles going to lap over the 4 tiles that line the reveal?

The way my kids spray water round the bathroom I should have sloped the whole floor to the wall drain not just the corner!