Onoff

Ah I see! Yep, route another through housing to your heart's content Zoot! If the new housing overlaps with the old you can infill with a bit of any old scrap wood, glued and pinned to keep it tight. A through housing joint:

Sorry, I'm lost...the plan is to buy the Jewson lining kit you linked then further rebate it? I wouldn't, what'll you gain, an inch wider door and the 27mm will be down to half an inch!

That's what my linings are, 27mm thick.

As clean stone goes that looks lovely.

Buying a kit was my first thought yes. I've used the kits that allow for 2 door widths depending what way up the header is and just lopped off the excess. Zoom in above the sapele door. Doesn't matter a carrot if the walls are rough. Chip off the high spots and pack. Zoom in where the tiles meet the lining and you'll see the packs: It's pi$$ easy. If making them yourself just clamp a bit of timber square and route against that. Old school would be a tenon saw to depth then chisel.

Nah, it'll never catch on. Pity.

I used this. It's brilliant. Can't remember if I watered the first coat down or not though. https://www.screwfix.com/p/leyland-trade-super-leytex-matt-paint-brilliant-white-15ltr/60248 EDIT: I did water the first coat down. Probably as it says on the tin. Some say I went OTT on my plastered ceiling and walls... 2 coats Leyland Super Leytex 20% water Gyproc EasiFill 20 as required Rubbed down 2 coats Leyland Super Leytex neat 3 coats Dulux Diamond Matt

Think you're onto something there! Someone needs to market it. You could have it all bundled together and shrink wrapped. Just needs a catchy name.

Seems if I'd have bought a different "magnaclean" then attaching a power flusing rig is a doddle. This is the Fernox one: There's also ones you attach in place of the pump motor. This is circa £100 from the people who make the power flushing rig: A quarter of the price this generic one: Both though mean getting the power flush rig up into the loft. Still planning to connect something where the IntaKlean unit fits.

So for my eventual manifold I could just copy @Gus Potter? Could I feed that set up from a low loss header?

It's Approved Document J you want. Any number of stove sites try and break it down into easy to read requirements like this: https://www.woodburnerwarehouse.co.uk/building-regulations#:~:text=A stove must stand on,be at least 250mm thick.

I might be dreaming but didn't you do a similar DIY manifold?

Interesting reading the ScaleBreaker manual. You can add various chemical agents for descaling from mild to strong. I wonder if their "CG", in white crystal form is just citric acid?

That's what I found doing my sink. The cut was pi$$ed.

They're a bit lairy. I cut out for my sink with one. They want to jump up at you. Thereafter I routed the hole out for the induction hob. Perfect.

Too many words, I skimmed it & missed the link in the middle! ?

Maybe a day out to Digger Land? https://www.diggerland.com/

Hmmm...tricky one. I have mulled running a flow and return straight down the centre of the house. At ground this would CURRENTLY be under a suspended timber floor (ish) but at two different floor heights. That would be a bit of a waste though if/when I change to solid built up floors with UFH in. It might be better to run the flow and return lengthways down the house but in the void above the ground floor ceiling joists but below the dormer floor joists. There's as much as a foot from the top of the d'stairs joists to the underside of the dormer floor joists. Then drop pipes down to the rads. The big problem is the house is a hotch potch of wall, floor and ceiling constructions over the years topped by a "new" (mid 80s) roof tying it all together.

I see that now, just from up in the loft having a gander. What stops the "surge" from the PFM going up the feed pipe back into the F&E tank and similarly up the expansion pipe into the same F&E tank? Answering my own questions maybe but I've a ball valve on the feed pipe so can isolate that. For the expansion pipe I could just cap it off? You've lost me there I'm afraid. Isn't it just a loop of pipe in effect with the PFM introduced into it? You mean a link with a gate valve in? Not getting it tbh. Sorry for being thick!

"It's not cheating if only the tip goes in, any more than that is cheating".

Money's on the dresser! ?

The plan was to cross connect the F&E filler and expansion pipes & put the mid position and two 2 port valves to manual.

Have you changed tile levelling system?

Could the same (pressure) be an issue for the coil in the (/a dodgy old) HWC?

1998 or thereabouts I think. What's the worry, clogging the boiler up?