Onoff

I've got the OK to borrow one of these for as long as I need within reason! https://www.kamco.co.uk/c90-fwf-descaling-pump.html Need to read the book now! Also will need some sort of adapter to go onto the pump or IntaKlean connections from these hose ends. No rubber/fibre washer in there...that's odd: Wondering if I could fit it where the IntaKlean magnetic filter currently is? Easy isolation etc all the kit at ground floor and so on.

Is it absolutely imperative, on a single pipe system, to have the flow to the rad in at the top and the "return", diagonally opposite at the bottom? Like this original one: Out of 8 in total, I've two downstairs rads here that are in/out at the bottom. One new, double convector rad I fitted (what is now the first downstairs rad) and then the last rad on the downstairs system the previous owner fitted. I have the opportunity when I next drain down to make them both "in at the top". (I'm replacing the last one anyway as that has the broken bleed screw). Thanks.

Interesting. No sign of air tightness tape being used in the fixes, just board and gun foam. Unless I missed it they don't say what brand foam. I think the right foam is good, look at Icynene!

This any good? https://www.everbuild.co.uk/product/thermofoam/ Says "Certified air permeability: a<0,1 m³ to EN 12114:2000"

I assumed that's how it works. Yes there is a cylinder stat. I've put this up before from when I figured the wiring:

It's nom 7m from the top of the boiler, up through into the eaves, then along through the air separator, pump, mid port to the coil. All in 28mm copper. Return the same run pretty much, again all in 28mm copper.

The hot water cylinder (thus coil) is on the 1st floor.

No ideas how to set the balancing valve. It's 5 full turns from fully open to shut to I've put it at 2 1/2 turns open. So the pump presents to port AB on the mid position valve. It can either port to A only for CH, B only for HW via the tank coil or both ports for CH & HW at the same time. You're saying I think that when doing both CH & HW it gives priority to port B (HW)?

I'll give these people a ring I see they do planings: https://www.sheernessrecycling.co.uk/our-products One of their associated companies is Borough Green Sand Pits just down the road from me.

Erm...you WON'T see them is the idea! ?

I'm a bit lost...as I understand it the mid position valve allows CH, HW or both? Upstairs and downstairs have their own thermostat. Why is the mid position "lazy"? All 3 valves are pretty new and Honeywell btw.

I've filled in the cable trench I excavated but tbh I think long term I'm just going to churn up the clay if I carry on. (Before there was line of bricks on hardcore). Thinking to fill with something like Type 1 or something "asphalt" based. This is is what's on the rest of the drive but I don't know what it is, any ideas? Looks like it's been tipped and rollered.

Yes, the air separator tees in as the first thing in the 28mm pipe from the boiler. Then the F&E feed after that, then the pump. Pipe comes from the top of the air separator and just loops over the F&E tank.

Good to know ref the pump, thanks. Seems to be running alright. I've added where the ds & us CH returns: This then is the upstairs CH: & the downstairs. The run of plastic 22mm is where I want to break into and fit the low loss header:

VERY carefully you could get some low expansion foam down there first or even some other foam rubber you could push down before caulking.

Lucky I went and checked up in the loft. The leak on the pump valve has gotten worse, much worse. Sod's Law the replacement pump valves turned up after I think it was the second drain down! I'm going to try and manage the leak until next weekend when I drain down again to change the rad and drain off the cleaner in the system. I'll do the pump valves then. Guessing the 2L of cleaner might be doing its thing and finding little leaks. Maybe there's a way I could change the pump valves now without too much mess? It's valve 'B' leaking. Rough sketch of what I have. As for the pump itself, this the original: Then the replacement: I can't find the spec for this black one on the Grundfoss site at all. The part number just doesn't come up. Elsewhere though it appears to have been replaced by their Alpha model due to "EUP" regulations.

Assuming it's acrylic sealant? At 5mm you might see it shrink and slump a bit so as said do in two hits.

I don't mind changing the x4 22mm valves here just to make sure they're full bore. Looking at these at SF but one review says they don't think they're quite full bore. https://www.screwfix.com/p/lever-ball-valve-red-22mm/38468? If the Ross ones aren't full bore then that's only the two I have to change. This other one (not Ross brand) I think might be full bore (leak all fixed now btw): Then this, same make I think as the above: Just wondering if I can search my Screwfix purchase history by category. They probably came from there.

Thinking about it I do have x4 22mm ball valves on the CH system at various points that I've introduced, at various points & of unknown bore. I'll try and sketch out the abortion of pipework I have here sometine.

Bit of a generic term I think. Out in NZ it took me a while to figure their word "silastic" they use as we say "silicone". Silastic was original a Dow product in its own right but they now take it to mean anything sticky in a tube. "I bought some caulk (noun) and used it to caulk (verb) around the window". https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caulk Most decorators caulks can be painted over I think. Just touch in the bits if you've caulked after painting.

I don't think that's quite right. A well insulated house will heat up quicker and stay like it for longer. A draughty old place like yours (and mine), well heat is pissing out of the fabric at multiple points AS you're heating it up. Whatever heating system has to stay on longer to get to and then maintain the temperature periodically. Your ASHP will be on for much longer periods and therefore more noticeable.

They are just in a run of the 3/4" nominal bore single pipe system between the 1st and second radiators. About 5m apart. It's this 5m run I was looking to fit a low loss header to feed a manifold for my UFH loop in the bathroom.

Change them do you reckon? Thinking it might impede the flow.

A problem on the single pipe system d'you think?

I can recommend the Steve Jobs biography. Sit back and have a read and let her do everything! ?