Onoff

I reckon a PCM contender is the filling in McDonald's Apple Pies. By Christ does that stuff hold it's heat. Many a dark night I've bitten into one of those whilst driving to be rewarded with a scalding dollop in the lap. As you struggle to stay on the road and hold onto a steering wheel slick with mayo from the McChicken Sandwich. Should be part of the driving test imo.

What side are the hinges going on in this photo?

I think I understand what you mean. So basically your walls are pi$$ed? As ever, photos would help. Whatever you do your frame needs to be installed square and plumb. I'm thinking architrave might mask the issue and you'll fill behind it. The joys of an old house with wonky walls. Welcome to my world. Edit: Is "arch" your shorthand for architrave? I've just spent minutes trying to figure where your "arch" is. Use proper English like wot we do.

Nope. Plan and build the stud first. Calc for everything inc the joints, tile heights, thickness. Aim for a tolerance of 1mm or less and be happy if you get anywhere near it! Do pockets to suit tile size. Oh, and don't forget a scale model: Then don't follow the model and find you can't actually tile very well...

"Swansea, is that an animal?"

Is that the time it takes to walk from one wing to the other?

Not when you've broken the bleed key off and won't be changing it until this weekend you can't!

Trust me, effin great oil boilers don't work if the heat is pi$$ing out through every wall, around every window and the gaps in the floor and ceiling.

Pmsl!

I find not having any heating in the bathroom and keeping it a balmy 15degC, you tend not to hang around in there and ponder the sh!t tiling.

100% yes as long as the legs are deep enough to cover the tiles that'll "line" the box and the fubar'd edge. You will of course end up with a water trap on the bottom mind. Not in a wet room area is it? If so you'll have to mop in there with the towel you've just used. Tile away with gay abandon then stick the trims on with CT1 later.

FFS, the poshest tile cutter money can buy....are you not marking those tiles and cutting free hand to a marked line? Thank you, I feel so much better about my bathroom now. ?

You mean too wide? 132-122=10mm. Wouldn't worry about it being 10mm wider. Get on and fit it! ?

You will not get anywhere with this issue, with the installer etc unless you document EVERYTHING with times and dates, in a clear and concise manner. You then need to convey that to them, in writing, ideally by email. I'd be say sending "them" a monthly summary at least. Short term consider a white noise sleep machine. A friend has one to help drown out a neighbour's, sub normal kid, up all night gaming that they can hear through their bedroom wall. He said it helps. As for your neighbours then it's CCTV evidence and the police along with environmental health ref the dog mess. Maybe your neighbours don't like the noise of the ASHP? Pity you don't get on as complaints from them would add weight to your case. Perhaps they are staging a dirty / silent etc protest over it.

Any chance of sketching out what you've done? Crayon is fine! ?

That Jewson link shows the stops are separate. One tip is fix the sides with screws so that the stops you then pin on go over the screw holes.

Yep. Buy the big kit of trouser shims from SF. Invaluable. https://www.screwfix.com/p/broadfix-assorted-plastic-shims-medium-200-pcs/80408?

This does fine. Just need to stop the heat escaping the draughty old house and the boiler never being off when it gets cold!

We don't use the room other than for storing crap. It's a 4" block wall construction with mainly single glazing so freezing anyway. Limited insulation in the ceiling, nothing under the floor. At the moment the heat of the boiler is just barely warming that room or going up into the loft space.

@PeterW put me onto this. Hasn't missed a beat: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00QVM6VK4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KMi2CbPSR3RNJ

In that case go on your own. Maybe take the other half so as not to look like the sad, slightly suspect loner in the anorak...

My mistake. Just cut the new trench and cut the excess off.

Don't forget to take the kids!

COVID / materials dependent I want to box in my boiler with an insulated but relatively quick to remove enclosure. The currently uninsulated, two 28mm pipes going up into the uninsulated hipped loft space/eaves. I was thinking to get another bit of coving and fit around these pipes. Maybe as it'll be in a cupboard though.....need I bother? Just neatly pb it from above? I need to replace the fire cement that's got a few cracks around where the flue comes up and out the wall. Rough plan is a full height 2x2" timber frame, clad in plasterboard then packed with Rockwool batts. I'll similarly line the back wall and sides with Rockwool batts. A little worried about fire of course. Haven't even thought about a door yet other than I guess it'll need a vent. Also a tad worried about about any fumes (if a fault) getting up into the loft and in turn bedrooms. All I have here is a full sheet of moisture resistant plasterboard. Good enough or should I go for the pink fire rated stuff? Any thoughts? Cheers.

I'll raise you 11degC in my bathroom when it's really cold.