Onoff

@MarkyP might be your man for advice on this Think it's the norm to affix timber "strong points" to the wall pre mesh and render. The small area doesn't compromise the insulation too much. If not then you can get stand off plastic "tube" type fixings.

Sorry, I'm a bit lost without a section drawing. One option could be 600x600x50mm council slabs laid atop the DPM...

"Taping it to the walls"... Is the intent to sit the edge of the metal shed on the concrete base, then to lay out a DPM inside and tape it up the inside of the walls? Bad idea if so.

I need to fold a bit of stainless to mount a doorbell camera in my gate pillar. Made one housing but not happy with the result of beating it over in the vice so decided to make a folder/brake press. I could do with one for some other bits I've got to make anyway. A case of what have I got lying around! A bit of 150x75 PFC, galvanised: Some 50x50x6 RSA: Some random, heavy wall steel tube. Plenty of bits of this and box about: I had intended to use weld on "pinet" hinges (from RS) but they are a bit lightweight perhaps. I've already started discing out the steel to fit these hinges. The axis of the hinge needs to be dead centre to where the top of the (mitred) RSA and PFC meet: Was struggling anyway with which way up to put the hinges. They've this odd "pointy" side to apparently make alignment against a straight edge easier. Reckon I'd be better off with plain, circular hinges: Plan was today then was to mark up and disc out for 33.7 OD hinges made from some old handrail off cuts: The tube ID is nom 27.7mm (3mm wall). All I have for hinge pins is some 25mm, 80mm long stainless shafts, or a short length of 1" ali. Whoops! Just realised the effective working length of this bender will only be about 400mm! OK for what I immediately want it for, to remake this: No good though when I come to remake my boiler top. Done by hand last time, edges beaten over clamped wood: I've cut my losses and stopped now. I've access to some longer channel I think so I'll get that.

The rising hinge concept is one you'll just have to get your head around ? it works, there's thousands like it. Example of powered. Having a mad idea here of a sliding gate on a slope. You manually pull it up slope to lock it. To open, a simple, powered remote control (could be battery, solar backed up etc). The remote operates a solenoid that releases a catch and the gate rolls opens under gravity. So you could open it by remote to drive in/out but would need to get out of the car to shut it. Maybe don't encourage me...

Probably a glass ceiling price wise for such a niche product...

Shouldn't there at least be a layer of geotextile above the bulk of the backfill with a say decorative (if the bulk fill material doesn't suit), topping over that? Otherwise, over time, small debris particles will filter down.

Presume this is going to be a get out and open / close rather than motorised gate?

Rising band gate hinges?

Struggling! 450mm: https://bathroomsatsource.com/product/gsi-norm-45-wall-hung-wc-pan-and-soft-close-seat-gs8610/ https://bathroomvillage.com/products/gsi-norm-45-wall-hung-wc-pan-450-x-350mm?variant=14053341823028&gclid=CjwKCAjwoZWHBhBgEiwAiMN66XpyVUNMGky3MVgDlJIqaMLjRiJCSdQ-8WdY9ZNVM4_dsrEKqnaiRhoCv24QAvD_BwE

Multisolve, WD-40, Big Wipes (the ones in the yellow tub).

Try a surge protector on the Mac?

Rockwool sound insulation. I did fit sound absorbing acoustic, ex recording studio panels in the void behind my Geberit frame. Near silent filling up and the flush is quiet too.

Lucky it was just your feet on show or that blade would have looked even bigger!

Thought that was a bottom opener?

Edit: Checking back and it appears I gave the wrong advice above! You half full the bath then GROUT. Once dry, empty the bath & go over it with silicone.

Ref that last photo, rather than grout you ideally want to half fill the bath with water so it "sinks" down with the gap open as wide as it'll go. Then fill with CT1, wipe flush and let it go off for 24hrs at least. (That can obviously be a problem if you want to use the bath). You then go over the CT1 with a silicone bead of your choice that you replace when grubby.

Nuff said:

Step by step from @Nickfromwales here:

Little st/st mounting, bezel thing for the video doorbell. Made from an old door kick plate stick welded with 316 rods. Need to knock up an internal plate with a couple of rivnuts on and tack that in:

Buy the cheapest one you want in whatever material, copy and 3D print it matt black. ...or spray it! ?

Or the £6 - 800 jobbie @pocster was salivating over! ?

Is the toilet pan already in and the 90mm pipe comes off of it and down through the floor? If so how about this, £5.98 from Toolstation. Link just for better info: https://www.wolseley.co.uk/product/mcalpine-outlet-straight-4-110mm-x-31-2-90mm/#:~:text=%2F2"%2F90mm-,McAlpine MAC-3 outlet straight 4"%2F110mm,x 3.1%2F2"%2F90mm Check your local stores as not available for delivery: https://www.toolstation.com/mcalpine-macfit-wc-straight-connector/p68770 Or: https://www.screwfix.com/p/mcalpine-macfit-mac-1-wc-straight-pan-connector-white-90-112mm/78806

The McAlpine fittings are much better quality than the Floplast stuff. Dimns of a couple of McAlpine connectors for instance:

Psst, want some roller plans? ?