Onoff

I put my 3rd hinge dead centreline of the middle rail. For the aesthetics more than anything else.

Deffo support the ply edges on joist centrelines. Even more important on the roof than the walls. You'll have to add a nom 220mm ply strip along the front. Have you already bought your roof covering and taken that into account? (I'd have extended the overhang a good full board at least and had a bit of an overhang supported by posts. Great for a bit of craft spraying etc out side. Shade too from full ?). Enough room for an outside rocking chair and somewhere to rest the shotgun is good! ?

I imagine it reduces the chance of the door warping?

3 looks better imho. The hinges cost more than my doors!

Also that Clifton Unkempt Novice Tiler...

The final tiling of the floor and walls let mine down, 'cos I did it! It's very hit and miss. @pocster used some great line/levelling clips doing his tiling. Learnt a load doing it and the help on here is brilliant. High points: - Geberit wall hung WC frame with Bernstein rimless pan. - The partially sunken bath means the floor and bath are on the same level. - Taps against the wall would normally be a pita to service but I found a great conversion kit to make them removable. -The bath side panels slope in at the bottom. Means you can stand closer to the bath. - Magnetic door catches are a doddle to fit, even in cheapo doors and just work: @AliG put me onto them from here but I can't find the same ones on there now. Nearest but I prefer my round ones: https://www.doorhandlecompany.co.uk/atlantic-mag-latch-86mm-magnetic-tubular-latches-bolt-throug-8624/ Video: (Tiling comes under high and low points...literally).

One off! ? I'll take it

Tensile Nrd, shear Vrd

The Fischer data tables are available. Exactly what fixing type were you looking at? For example: LT_01_N_F_SEN_AIP_V2.pdf

Try Saxton blades, use reduction rings? No idea what blades are in my two. I'll look.

Not quite afaic... "A4" relates to the corrosion resistance of the stainless steel. So A2 is nom 304 and A4 316 is 316 (better than 304). We've always referred to A4 as cutlery or marine grade. I recall a load of "ordinary", A2 stainless fixings used on a seafront job in Eastbourne. They had holes in them like a Swiss cheese after not too long! Atop a st/st bolt you'll see stampings for example "A4 70" or "A4 80". The 70 and 80 refer to the tensile strength, 80 being higher. Roughly 80 is equivalent, tensile strength wise to 8.8. We used to use a lot of M16 nyloc nuts on M16 A2/304 studs sticking out of concrete. They are notorious for locking up. (Nobody then ever used copper slip). One trick was to use A4 nyloc nuts on A2 studding. Used to lock up far less for some reason. As an aside, with mild steel bolts, no stamping means you can't tell the tensile strength grade. Working up the strength scale you get 4.6, 4.8, 5.6, 5.8, 6.8, 8.8, 10.9, 12.9 all fairly common. Above 8.8 they tend to be black and not zinc plated/galvanised as there can be problems with hydrogen embrittlement.

A quick montage of my partially sunken one if any use:

Mad idea but it's not condensation is it? Was the stove on at the time you were hosing it down? Thinking cold rain on a hot flue.

So you want one that's at least 10" long, bendy and black? I'm not one to judge.

I hope the buyers of your old place were appreciative of the whole concept and effort that went into it?

Traitor! ?

Any use? https://github.com/nooploop/piejam

"Call yourself a spring? You're a miserable excuse for..." Not that sort of wind up?

Got my gate gate hardware from here before: https://www.owlett-jaton.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=Door+spring+ I'd get a galvanized one before anything else, then bright zinc plated. "Black" would come last as a choice.

Gotta love a posho with too much money, over complicating things! Here's one I made earlier...like 40 years earlier. Based round a CA3140E op amp. Looks like I added a little amp at some time... What's a little hum between friends? ?

A good smear of Jet Blue Plus on a compression fitting allows you do do it up tighter, with no nasty brass on brass squeak as well as getting in the nooks and crannies of the threads so as to help make a seal. I don't use ptfe tape at all now on olive type compression fittings. I push pipe into fitting then smear round where it goes in. Then push the olive down onto the smeared seat. Another smear and do the nut up.

Where the phrase "our little secret" comes from!

It's clean, it's tidy, it's imperfect and IT LOOKS SPOT ON. ?

Presumably those two in the foreground are done with the light brown?

Thanks to @Roys the blade turned up today. Not looked anymore at the brush cutter yet. Been making the most of the weather and cutting lawns, trimming trees etc.