Onoff

If you dig a hole make damn sure it's safe and that they can't fall down it/twist their ankle/have to take a precautionary trip to A&E/make a claim. Stick a board over it at least and take a picture if it's left unattended. I think with w@nkers like this you have to try and think ahead. Possibly even a polite registered letter / email informing them of what you're going to do They may be thinking that their erecting scaffold for inspection purposes could delay your build...which it likely would. First thing is the scaffold will go up wide enough to cause your builder grief in marking out etc. Then there'll be a delay in them taking it down.....

I'd leave the post in a container of whatever wood treatment you're using until it's ready to go in the ground. The post will suck up the treatment a fair way. You can buy Postsaver sleeves though not sure what size they go up to. Never used them myself. For example: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Protectors-Postsaver-Protector-Repair-Sleeves/dp/B0957FPPB1/ref=asc_df_B0957FPPB1/?

I'd get the gates before fitting the posts.

Do you hear the thermostat click as you rotate it from min to max?

Is this not a full rewire?

That'll do for a quick drop in to the scrappy!

Back on this, maybe...for something to do! Primarily I've a jumbo bag of amassed hardcore to get rid of! (About 10 bags in reality but one in particular is annoying SWMBO!). Planning as above to extend the shed towards the pile of cuttings. First thing is to clear out the previously excavated area to the side. Fill with hardcore, whack and extend the base by however big I decide. I don't think tbh the current excavation is enough to double the length of the shed. Might have to get the digger back. Still can't decide on bricking, blocking or casting the new side walls. Whatever they'll be up against dirt. If I cast the slab then the walls how do I stop water ingress at the joint? Don't really want to do a water bar. This shows it before. Tbh I don't want to get too close to the old stable in the background: Maybe I go with just a small extension and stick the gardening tools in there... Then how to do the roof felt join, existing to new. At the mo it's a traditional underlay then green mineral cap sheet all put on with copious amounts of adhesive! Wtf didn't I just build a bigger shed from scratch instead of all this pi$$ing about? ?

1st fix the cables and back boxes go in. All gets plastered. Cable is coiled up and stuffed in the boxes. Plasterer will gleefully fill these up with his goop for you to dig out later. You either accept some digging out or you can get various posh little inserts to protect the back boxes or even make your own. I've seen the cable ends wrapped in cling film and even tin foil! Cling film isn't a bad shout if you've cables poking out the ceiling. Gets "tricky" when you move away from the traditional single centre light in each room to multiple downlighters. Probably better then to plaster then hole saw out and fish the cables through. That needs planning! Tbh a good spread should cope with whatever but they prefer a clear run. 2nd fix sockets and plates go on. Then it all gets DEAD tested. Hugely important step as opposed to banging them all in and switching on! Dead testing should show up any faults long before power is applied. Use a reputable sparks for a start. Stick to safe zones for all your drops. Even mark on the plasterboard the safe zones if you want. It's not unheard of but rare to get a "dodgy" cable off a reel of twin and earth. So buy decent cable. Damage is usually down to a nail, screw, pinch, plasterers trowel. Then it's down to how it's been run as to whether it's easy to replace. Running in plastic conduit in the walls is dirt cheap. Through joists then keep it up out of the way of plasterboard screws hitting it, (50mm). Imagine if it would "pull through" easily later on. Even if plastered in at worst it's going to be one run that might need digging out...or one ceiling coming down! ?

Cheers. I'll go equipped then! Just found another 10kg of copper and some more brass.

@MikeSharp01, evening. I'm planning to weigh in my lead, copper and brass tomorrow at that place opposite Tesco. Reckon I've 25kg of lead, 16kg plus of copper and a bit of brass. I believe it gets paid into a bank account. Will I have to take/show any identification? Cheers

My Evolution electric whacker seemed to cope OK with the hardcore I graded through a piece of mesh to give 40mm down to dust. That's only 5kN from memory. Saint-Nazaire was a good sub base btw...I'll get me coat!

Wasn't someone recommending the veggie Fray Bentos somewhere?

The tins they came in used to make ideal rain covers for motors fitted externally where the fan cover points up.

You're a lone voice I think. The heights are great imo and very practical. I tried to get my parents to let me rewire their place but my Dad wouldn't hear of it because of the mess etc. Now, riddled with arthritis he has to over reach down to plug things in. He broke his elbow on his dominant arm and can't lift it too high so the too high light switches are a pita for him. Better a child can reach the light switch than stand on something and fall off. I moved a light switch from behind a door in a rental to just inside the door and put it at 1200mm. The incoming tenant said their young child was over the Moon as they could now reach. The novelty soon wears off. Any new socket / switch I put in here is at the "new" heights.

Get yourself a couple of bevel gauges in different sizes, for this sort of thing for sure. Very useful.

Think you've just hit on the house name here!

Neatly cut the boxes with a multitool so you don't lose too much of the pb facing paper. Paint the cut edges with PVA and allow to dry ideally. It really strengthens the hole and stops it breaking up. Then fit the box. Who's got time to do that though unless you're doing it yourself! ?

Aico or at a push Aico. Saying that I have once fitted Kidde when I couldn't get Aico in a rush. Wired which were OK tbh if a bit bulky. You can with most get a little test station from where you can test your alarms or in the event of a trigger hush all those except the ones going off. Aico do really good installer/specifier pocket book guides for the sake of a 5 minute sign up.

Done. Mortar was a bit sloppy on the second cap so the bed is a bit thin (but we were rushing cos of the lightning! ? ) Drip bead feature seems to work! Waiting for the storm to pass as so we can wheel the scaffold up the road back to my neighbour.

Cheers. Just setting up now for the first one.

Half a plan today then to get the cast cap stones on top of the gate pillars. They're very, very heavy and my lad is more keyboard warrior than lifty, shifty site animal! I'll likely borrow some kwikstage esque scaffold from a neighbour. Better than the time honoured, two dodgy step ladders! Main worry is the mix... The pillar mortar was 4:1 opc/builders sand and of "bricklaying" consistency. Figuring to bed the cap stones on it's got to be drier so as not to compress too much and squidge out the sides. Also we need to be dropping (gently) the cap stone straight down atop the mortar and limit the side to side jiggling, again to limit dislodging the mortar. How dry is too dry for the mortar?

https://www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/help/about-the-appliance-industry/manufacturer-information/3204-john-lewis-appliances

Indeed. Looks like there's two different overhangs here? Does it leak all the way along?

Just a pity it's not all connected and working! ? SWMBO seems to have a mental block on me now digging up the adjacent room in the last photo.

Mine comes up through the slab and exits just outside the bathroom in what is now a slim services "cupboard":