Onoff

Use it, I have. Hotels use the same stuff. Cuts down on their cleaning bills. Won't do anything for pi$$ coloured grout though... ?

That's kind of you, in M16?

I may well do. The grey, circular foam strip I have is specifically designed to be siliconed over. Comes from the commercial curtain walling industry.

Two, that's it, done! Wait for them to cure and fit them. I'll have to rope a mate in to help lift them into position mind. Before then I do have to access inside the pillar tops and clean out any debris. Then do the final tightening of the M16 safety bolt (back up in case the weld on the L shape box section give up). I'll need some fancy plastic caps to go over the nut come to think of it. Think I can rustle up some white ones and spray them. I want a Gothic esque, thick washer there too...something to mull over... I also have to decide how and where to run conduit for my aerial coax and indeed where to mount the aerial for the gate controller. Probably atop the horizontal section of box with a CB style mount. I did half consider a fancy moulding at the apex of the pillar cap to put the aerial right at the top.....but decided not to. I've also to fill these (deliberate) gaps around where the box comes out of the pillar with foam strip then figure some cover plates or the birds will peck it all out. The box section needs painting black at some time too. Another couple of years then! ?

Second one done. Used the orbital sander against the sides to vibrate it down this time. Typically I did only 75% of last time's mix (when I had too much left over) and this time was a bit short! Scraped to the sides and filled the hollow in the middle with a nom. 4:1 mix, no lime, no dye, just whatever it picked up from the drum. Was a bit sloppy tbh. Far left corner of the copper pipe came detached from the cross timber so I think is sitting about an 1/8" too deep. I used CT1 first time round but ordinary silicone to "glue" it the the cross timber. Guess the drip channel will just be a bit deeper. Fingers crossed!

Could you... Install a couple of bfo davits in your garden to launch/recover your own boat? You could, but the cost???

Ready for the next one once the copper pipe has stuck to the cross members. Cleaned the mould out and re-siliconed the internal corners: Found a bit of slightly bigger mesh than before, not galvanised, so gave it a quick coat of zinc spray. Sand and dye already in the mixer: Cement and lime measured out ready.

Bit of wood with a notch in the end.

Truly exceptional bits of kit. A mate wanted them but couldn't find them so went with similar albeit square ones. Not anywhere near as nice imo.

Sorted! ? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Automatic-Operated-Presents-Bathroom-Washroom/dp/B08HQFGS6L/ref=asc_df_B08HQFGS6L/?

I put my 3rd hinge dead centreline of the middle rail. For the aesthetics more than anything else.

Deffo support the ply edges on joist centrelines. Even more important on the roof than the walls. You'll have to add a nom 220mm ply strip along the front. Have you already bought your roof covering and taken that into account? (I'd have extended the overhang a good full board at least and had a bit of an overhang supported by posts. Great for a bit of craft spraying etc out side. Shade too from full ?). Enough room for an outside rocking chair and somewhere to rest the shotgun is good! ?

I imagine it reduces the chance of the door warping?

3 looks better imho. The hinges cost more than my doors!

Also that Clifton Unkempt Novice Tiler...

The final tiling of the floor and walls let mine down, 'cos I did it! It's very hit and miss. @pocster used some great line/levelling clips doing his tiling. Learnt a load doing it and the help on here is brilliant. High points: - Geberit wall hung WC frame with Bernstein rimless pan. - The partially sunken bath means the floor and bath are on the same level. - Taps against the wall would normally be a pita to service but I found a great conversion kit to make them removable. -The bath side panels slope in at the bottom. Means you can stand closer to the bath. - Magnetic door catches are a doddle to fit, even in cheapo doors and just work: @AliG put me onto them from here but I can't find the same ones on there now. Nearest but I prefer my round ones: https://www.doorhandlecompany.co.uk/atlantic-mag-latch-86mm-magnetic-tubular-latches-bolt-throug-8624/ Video: (Tiling comes under high and low points...literally).

One off! ? I'll take it

Tensile Nrd, shear Vrd

The Fischer data tables are available. Exactly what fixing type were you looking at? For example: LT_01_N_F_SEN_AIP_V2.pdf

Try Saxton blades, use reduction rings? No idea what blades are in my two. I'll look.

Not quite afaic... "A4" relates to the corrosion resistance of the stainless steel. So A2 is nom 304 and A4 316 is 316 (better than 304). We've always referred to A4 as cutlery or marine grade. I recall a load of "ordinary", A2 stainless fixings used on a seafront job in Eastbourne. They had holes in them like a Swiss cheese after not too long! Atop a st/st bolt you'll see stampings for example "A4 70" or "A4 80". The 70 and 80 refer to the tensile strength, 80 being higher. Roughly 80 is equivalent, tensile strength wise to 8.8. We used to use a lot of M16 nyloc nuts on M16 A2/304 studs sticking out of concrete. They are notorious for locking up. (Nobody then ever used copper slip). One trick was to use A4 nyloc nuts on A2 studding. Used to lock up far less for some reason. As an aside, with mild steel bolts, no stamping means you can't tell the tensile strength grade. Working up the strength scale you get 4.6, 4.8, 5.6, 5.8, 6.8, 8.8, 10.9, 12.9 all fairly common. Above 8.8 they tend to be black and not zinc plated/galvanised as there can be problems with hydrogen embrittlement.

A quick montage of my partially sunken one if any use:

Mad idea but it's not condensation is it? Was the stove on at the time you were hosing it down? Thinking cold rain on a hot flue.

So you want one that's at least 10" long, bendy and black? I'm not one to judge.

I hope the buyers of your old place were appreciative of the whole concept and effort that went into it?