Onoff

Been called worse. Btw your spelling is appalling.

Yes I know, little things etc! Thanks to @JFDIY for the dome nuts and a member on another forum for the laser cutting!

Try rubbing with a ball of scrunched up tin foil.

Couple of hosepipes to make a water level. Pretty foolproof imho.

As an Irish citizen it's a Celtic cross and therefore part of my religious heritage!

Fresh off the laser cutter!

We get the proper large, (edible) Roman snails here from nearby Lullingstone Roman villa.

Cold bridging surely? Or is it that it's minimal?

I'd do "normal" concrete for strength personally or as I say 2" "council" paving slabs. But add others have said above the 50mm you say for screed/concrete is a bit thin imo. Less mess, easy 'ish to lay (mind fingers). Depends how flat your slab is underneath. You can always bed on some sand. I wonder if you could even do away with the screed/concrete... Put down 50mm of pir or eps then 22mm t&g moisture resistant chipboard flooring over that.....keep your feet a bit warmer! That extra flashing sketch to the right of 3 is good if you can do something like that. You see so many metal sheds just sat on an often oversize slab and water pees in at the edges. Devil's in the detail!

Option 1 = bad. Water / damp will drive in (red arrow) and rot your metal shed. Option 2, not bad as the shed is sat on the DPM but a bit of a risk of water sitting between DPM and shed edge. With hindsight you could have cast a taper on the slab edge where the shed sits. Option 3, fold and stick the DPM down the side of the slab. Saves it turning up and trapping water. Great if you can then flash from under the shed and down over the DPM. 4 ideally you want the "ground" 150mm below where the metal is. If less then a stone filled trench at least with drainage if necessary.

@MarkyP might be your man for advice on this Think it's the norm to affix timber "strong points" to the wall pre mesh and render. The small area doesn't compromise the insulation too much. If not then you can get stand off plastic "tube" type fixings.

Sorry, I'm a bit lost without a section drawing. One option could be 600x600x50mm council slabs laid atop the DPM...

"Taping it to the walls"... Is the intent to sit the edge of the metal shed on the concrete base, then to lay out a DPM inside and tape it up the inside of the walls? Bad idea if so.

I need to fold a bit of stainless to mount a doorbell camera in my gate pillar. Made one housing but not happy with the result of beating it over in the vice so decided to make a folder/brake press. I could do with one for some other bits I've got to make anyway. A case of what have I got lying around! A bit of 150x75 PFC, galvanised: Some 50x50x6 RSA: Some random, heavy wall steel tube. Plenty of bits of this and box about: I had intended to use weld on "pinet" hinges (from RS) but they are a bit lightweight perhaps. I've already started discing out the steel to fit these hinges. The axis of the hinge needs to be dead centre to where the top of the (mitred) RSA and PFC meet: Was struggling anyway with which way up to put the hinges. They've this odd "pointy" side to apparently make alignment against a straight edge easier. Reckon I'd be better off with plain, circular hinges: Plan was today then was to mark up and disc out for 33.7 OD hinges made from some old handrail off cuts: The tube ID is nom 27.7mm (3mm wall). All I have for hinge pins is some 25mm, 80mm long stainless shafts, or a short length of 1" ali. Whoops! Just realised the effective working length of this bender will only be about 400mm! OK for what I immediately want it for, to remake this: No good though when I come to remake my boiler top. Done by hand last time, edges beaten over clamped wood: I've cut my losses and stopped now. I've access to some longer channel I think so I'll get that.

The rising hinge concept is one you'll just have to get your head around ? it works, there's thousands like it. Example of powered. Having a mad idea here of a sliding gate on a slope. You manually pull it up slope to lock it. To open, a simple, powered remote control (could be battery, solar backed up etc). The remote operates a solenoid that releases a catch and the gate rolls opens under gravity. So you could open it by remote to drive in/out but would need to get out of the car to shut it. Maybe don't encourage me...

Probably a glass ceiling price wise for such a niche product...

Shouldn't there at least be a layer of geotextile above the bulk of the backfill with a say decorative (if the bulk fill material doesn't suit), topping over that? Otherwise, over time, small debris particles will filter down.

Presume this is going to be a get out and open / close rather than motorised gate?

Rising band gate hinges?

Struggling! 450mm: https://bathroomsatsource.com/product/gsi-norm-45-wall-hung-wc-pan-and-soft-close-seat-gs8610/ https://bathroomvillage.com/products/gsi-norm-45-wall-hung-wc-pan-450-x-350mm?variant=14053341823028&gclid=CjwKCAjwoZWHBhBgEiwAiMN66XpyVUNMGky3MVgDlJIqaMLjRiJCSdQ-8WdY9ZNVM4_dsrEKqnaiRhoCv24QAvD_BwE

Multisolve, WD-40, Big Wipes (the ones in the yellow tub).

Try a surge protector on the Mac?

Rockwool sound insulation. I did fit sound absorbing acoustic, ex recording studio panels in the void behind my Geberit frame. Near silent filling up and the flush is quiet too.

Lucky it was just your feet on show or that blade would have looked even bigger!

Thought that was a bottom opener?