Simplysimon

@readiescards, the only thing i can see is that the trimmer is not as deep as the joists and is thinner in section. i don't have much experience with posi joists, but do know that joists shoudn't sag! timber joists should be fitted with a camber (if it has one) uppermost so that loading will level it. i would have had a couple of rows of strutting in 4.5m i presume that's what the strongback is for

keep concrete slab below slate level, alternatively, cut mortar out below slate and take dpm under slate to stop bridging

glad to see this coming back on topic as i'm starting to look as well

looking at chimney wall, are joists sitting on inner leaf, opposite wall is hangered to block inner leaf.

i have to say the trimmer looks to be quite thin compared to the trimming joists, i'd have thought it would be the same. any pics of fixing of joist ends where fixed to chimney wall?

@bissoejosh, same wall make up as me, i will be going down the route of t&g outside to allow for glueing and increase airtight envelope, still debating whether to use dhf or go osb3

so we're looking at not only joists but trimming around a chimney which is a whole different ball game? bottom of door looks to be square to stile but clearance under door definitely not eq. were the hinges cranked and sunk into the standard as well as the door? clearance looks a bit tight on that side.

@tilpol a 350mm jji stud wall/roof with blown cellulose will give a u value of .1, windows at .6, just had an excellent price for upvc windows, i really don't want upvc, however, other half is going 'i don't care, look at the price'! have to say it's difficult to argue. airsource heat pump 2-3kw power input dependent on size (ecodan)

once the crack is filled, a roll of torchon felt to cover and make watertight.

when looking at ufh i was asked as to floor coverings, i stated wooden flooring and carpets, was told they would design with a worst case scenario

bloody 'ell, for a window, some regularised timber, insulation and cladding, the insurance rebuild cost for our house is only 160k. i'm presuming you live in london?

thanks guys, some things to look at it's these i'm replacing, used them for longer than i should have as they were mediocre to start with! i just hate waste and make my life harder due to it.

hi all, need to replace hss drill bits and am looking for suggestions as to good ones. so over to you......

alternatively, with some extra work try - http://www.theusedkitchencompany.com/product-category/kitchens-for-sale http://www.usedkitchenexchange.co.uk/product-category/used-kitchen/ https://www.kitchenexchange.co.uk/ save a fortune and recycle

even if lifting the wallplate, best solution, how are you attaching to wallplate? are you birdsmouthing?

up at horses yesterday morning helping daughter, wife decided to stay and do the ironing. daughters phone rings, mine flat battery, 'come home, there's a smell of burning'. got home and 'oh yes and it smells electrical' wife already pulled some of the 'stuff' from under stairs, i pulled a lot more, felt a cushion which was warm. it was the big black fuse before the meter and it was HOT, live wire going black and popping ocasionally. emergency sparky called 'you need scottishpower as it's the power going to next door' (we're a semi). he pulled the fuse as he said it would go on fire. so 3hrs later we now have two nice new henleys, i was reading about them in another post and was wondering what they were, now i know! so glad it was during the day and someone was in, we would have had a fire otherwise, seriously scary thought, house still smells of burnt wiring.

hi @Tin Soldier, usually in scotland the roof, if to be slated, will be covered in sarking. if tiled will be covered in osb, battened and counterbattened. i'm cladding in board for air tightness and will then need to batten and counterbatten as i'm slating, a pita! but the boards are too tough to nail into without damaging slates

you'll need a slate knife, but do-able, i did our first renovation very satisfying when finished. i intend to do this one as well and a far bigger roof with s/h slates. lead dressing fairly straightforward

contact warmcell and they will advise who is close to you to get prices

damned big cavity as well, anything going into it insulation wise, need a fair size of wall tie

burns well in the wood burner and puts out a fierce heat, probably does do the second though

only thing mdf is good for !

as an update, @ProDave black and brown are live and control the door. the neutrals are joined, the two switches are linked with a live and the black and brown from the motor are connected to the switches. black is up and brown is down, door now operating. cheers guys

seems to be everyone doing it! quick update and try out webpages, does seem faster took so long to appear after clicking submit pressed twice! if someone could please delete previous post (Done, Ian)

thanks guys, no bump stops on door and no remote control, as @Nickfromwales states you need to hold the key whilst door opens/closes. didn't manage to get to phone today will try next week when i get time.