SuperJohnG

If you have a gas boiler and can heat water easily to 60+ degrees then 300l will be adequate as you blend down to whatever is acceptable to you which is usually around 48-50 degrees. Which will give you more than 300l water. If you had an ASHP then 400l would be better suited as yiu would want to store it at thst 48 degrees. If you want to cover all bases and space and cost are not an issue then go 400l.

Hi James did you take any pics? I'm possibly planning to just staple straight at the top edge of batten under eaves to stop anything getting in. My eaves are blanked off as its a SIPS kit.

Start a daily log, write down everything and map out your incurred costs. I am in a similar position. What was 4 weeks have been 16 weeks, with 150 remedial items, kit supplier subcontractors had to sack their guy and have admitted liability but its still going to take time. If its not right stand your ground. If you have self build insurance you should have legal cover, talk to them and take advice.

@JamesP what did you use here? just about to undertake this so any steer greatly appreciated.

100% wunda here. Very competitive and they provide a design at the front end for 50 quid. Nu heat last I checked were a rip off.

When you say merchant do you means builders merchant? Best going direct here to whomever drives the bulkers

Hi See below picture, I'm struggling with a detail for a flat roof that adjoins the main house as I have a ventilated cavity and the main house is render on renderboard. I would like to finish the edges tidy and not leave a big gap. Its an area I haven't paid attention to but now need to do it before render board goes on in 2-3 weeks. It's a SIP panel roof (partly) hence, can I just add batons for the ventilation gap, then OSB then membrane and whatever covering I decide? (GRP, Rubber? lead?). Would you just build up the left and right edges higher, then lay the finish, then add the gutter to the front face? I've 100 questions but don't know where to start. I'm likley overthinking it, but a bit like a ribbit in the headlights

Following this with interest

Thanks for this only just noticed you'd replied.

Buildstore are 100% grade a wankers. Ecology all day long. I had 4k per month coming in and we have 400k loan approved. SAP wasn't quite there at first so adjusted till it met the requirements I'm not going to add the 1kw PV required but I have increased windows u value to compensate at end.

The deposit was a red herring. That was if he was buying material so sorted now. I've booked him and seen his work now that looks excellent. K rend rep reckons he'd only recommend this guy ans one other in Scotland to do the work so here's hoping it's good.

Why not nail everything? Its a roof male sore it's done proper. My roofers are nearly finished doing mine, 10000 slates all double nailed but it's solid.

What kind of roof is it? Just a normal trussed roof?

I used ecology, straightforward and no major issues. It's based on affordability with them not multiples of wages. They are very good to deal with and I would highly recommend. I have stayed in our current house (paid off) while we build. I havent looked at the budget since started because we are in it now and just need to keep going till at least its fully complete outside.

I've just had an updated quote. £8841 for labour only applying K rend TC15. This includes fitting all beads etc. Thats for around 195sqm including the windows area as that. Thats £45 per sqm the work looks good. But is he ripping the pish? Also wants 25% deposit up front 8 weeks before he even starts? I'm desperate to get it done before winter. If I don't I'll need the scaffold for an extra 3-4 months at maybe 2500 extra.

Right...this time is upon me. What's best practice for installing this? Spray glue onto the SIP panel then seal the joins around windows and lapped joints? I'll need a separate thread likely but thought I'd start here. @LA3222 I know you got a great result, I'm not planning added internal insulation but defo tape and VCL. Was thinking of taping all SIP panel joins then doing VCL but I can imagine this would be fortunes in tape?

I am in Central belt and I have two joiners who are cracking £320 a day for both (thats both not each) so keep looking these good guys who are out there are about and not taking the pis.

I'd say no. Nobody wants to share upside ever, for anyone doing estimating that's their assumed budget if they get a better price that is kept in their pocket. That's why things are normally fixed price. Also anyone on a cost plus contract is not incentivised to reduce costs whatsoever. I'd disagree they are. Everything is also programme driven, so if you need it now you need it regardless of the costs. A lot of major construction contracts run on cost plus contracts but they can be incentivised to reduce costs. You just can't price major construction projects.

Definitely bring them up through through slab easiest ans best way. In reality ans cold bridging from this I would think is negligible in the grand scheme of things.

9 months to do foundations and blockwork only?

Do them at 600 centres and use screws so it holds in the OSB . What size battens are you using out if interest? Have you added the PIR outside? Don't really need it inside unless you are doing a screed? Edit - I could be wrong on screws on the inside but thats what I am using outside for the battens which will hold the renderboard.

I still seem to be mega struggling with this weinerberger bit, I quite fancy getting it. However the supplier has just advised the price is £85 plus vat for 2.7m, so in the end it is around £1360 for the 40m I need plus, ridge tile at around £3.5 a pop, makes it horrendously expensive for a ridge. The reason he was offering this was they cant get an angled ridge tile to suit my 90 degree apex, which seems a little crazy, but he says it is quite a steep pitch but this helped use a tile for s lesser pitch but allow it to clear the apex. Now I had reverted back into my shell and started to go back to a zinc ridge (ventilated( - which i don't want but at 400 quid it is much better priced. He is looking for the right ridge tile but its a bloody struggle to get these in under 18 weeks it seems. However I have now stared to question how the air gets out up here, at the ridge, and what's required in terms of air flow. The over fascia vents are 25mm and will allow lots of air in under the membrane and in between the sarking and SIPS panel (which also has a membrane) but at the top the the membrane is still lapped over the sarking, now as per @PeterW mentioned above that should be the case. But in the event I use the weinberger profile should I put a cut in the membrane to let the air out? everything will be covered with just air allowed in at the side vent as per the first picture. I know the membrane is vapour permeable, but it is windproof so wont allow a nice flow of air so do I need that really good flow or will the vapour permeable but do it? Also - there is a possibility he can get the right ridge tile to suit my pitch and in that case - it seems i can revert to a roll out dry ridge. Now If i do that - shoudl a cut the membrane allow air through then roll out the dry ridge roll, or is it just like a bit of membrane? or does it allow a lot more airflow while keeping the beasties out? help please - end of my wits with no solid advice.

Our new door arrives next week from Zyle fenster...got a wee sneak peak yesterday....we decided to avoid being safe on colours and go bold in the news house....poppy orange it was. Looks great in the pictures and hopefully even better when fitted next week. It's a wooden door but with a something core (I can't remember) but we drew down what we wanted and they have CNC machined the panel which looks great. Shamleess plug goes out to @craig and the team at ecowin who havr been great throughout so far and answered my millions of questions look forward to getting all the windows and doors fitted next week which include a set of 4.6m sliders. For all those thinking about going bold with some decisions go for it!

Do new houses in Scotland have to have a meter installed? Nope. I don't think I've ever seen a water meter for 20 years since I was helping a plumber mate at a farm. It's wet here...very wet. Albeit that's not just reason to use loads.

This just isn't something we have up in Scotland unless you own a farm. I am hoping for less than 200l per person per day once we are in onky because I have a low yield borehole.