SuperJohnG

@Highland build I havent followed up yet. Will maybe do it internally next few day and see if they are doing them again. Was just hanging it out as I don't like the surveying fees which are double that of the policy. Thanks on the blog....not much there since I got right into the build. Hopefully a few things sorted and cam post more soon but we are well on now with outside nearly complete.

Is this just affecting Zehnder? Or seeing the same issues with vent axia etc?

I have Fakro, sure they state 10mm.

Aye piss easy for the joiners. I would say 10mm will ne fine thats what we jad, do they state more? Airtightness was so far just expanding foam to fit them as they sit inside the kit panel just. I'll tape them later when doing the membrane inside with tescon vana airtightness tape. Bit no compribamd or that.

Hi I threw those gutter bits in the bin. Lol. Now looking at it, they could have went at the SIPS panel level under the membrane as per above to get water that runs down the inner membrane. The rooflights are fitted to the sarking, which is on battens, I have membrane in the SIPS panel and on sarking so in reality hard to fathom water getting in and being an issue also having no metal gutters like that at the level below would be just like having a normal trussed roof in Scotland with sarking.

'Perfect is the enemy of good' I seen that quote somewhere and it describes me too a T. Sometime just making a decision and moving forward it better.

Madness. There are lots...and lots of things to spend money on before that. There will be other sales....by the time you build if you haven't even got plans drawn up.

I have black fascia and kytun trims and was going to apply some low modulus silicone where they butt up down the verge, doesn't really need it but also need to do round windows etc. However on applying the clear silicone from everbuild...it wasn't clear. It's transparent but cloudy, and with black stood out a lot,.hence immediately removed. I could use black but I have white render and the good tip from the joiner was to use clear so that if you make a mess its not a disaster as there is no cleaning black silicone. I know you can get crystal clear but does anyone have any good recommendations for actually clear silicone (low modulus) they've used?

No scaffolding or welfare usually. They do usually include telehandler / crane but you need to be careful and ensure its in there and don't get caught out. I was around 68k from Fleming for a 300sqm house with t shaped house and split level over the main section of house. This didn't include a canopy section which would have added around £5k. This was for premium plus or whatever I'm sure which included insuaktion, sarking and membrane. Seems horribly expensive now for all involved. I went with SIPS also in the end. If I was doing it again right now knowing what I know, I'd stick build with my joiner who I have met through building this house. He is very good and very reasonably priced, but that is only with the benefit of hindsight and knowing current prices.

Good job. Feels good doesn't it!

Budget. I don't know...3k? Maybe 5k. I'm easily talked into buying quality for a long term view.

The blue stuff is good and will also stop people opening windows. My renderers had blue tape for areas and orange tapes to hold the blue stuff on.

I'd love a big set of floor standers for the lounge, hopefully budget allows at the end! Had a wee check still up and running thanks!

Posted the below on AVForums there which I used years ago extensively but their forums just seem a bit rubbish with no community these days. Where are the good UK hi fi forums now? Also if anyone has any input in the below it would be helpful: I have a large vaulted area which is a kitchen and open plan living area, I'd like to add a speaker system here preferably wall/ roof mounted which would fill the space well and be loud and of good quality but doesn't need to be audiophile perfect. It also extends out to a canopy covered area which will be outdoor bbq, seating area etc. We only stream music these days (I hear some of you cringe) we have some cds but can't see us ever getting them out apart form nostalgic reasons. Hence I was looking for some input on an amp and speakers and what things I should be thinking about. We have other rooms and may extend the system but multi room is not hugely important. What is important is ease of use, it must be able to go loud, loud enough that I'm scared to take it to max volume but still be clear. Likely I want to turn on my phone,.hit Spotify,.select.a track and then jack the volume up and enjoy..the ability to turn on zones or not would be helpful..so to include outside. Preference is a separate amp and wired speakers. I know sonos might tick the box here but I do t know why I just don't but into it and the ability to do what I want and get it loud. A simple set up is.ok. To add we.will have a TV in that room and adding a soundbar that can be incorporated would be good. Midrange and some good bass also essential. I'm thinking I'm asking a lot in a simple system which requires more thought but any advice appreciated.

I bought proclima intello, just took delivery of 8 rolls and 50 rolls of Vana. Seemed hard to compare them, but I sold it to myself in the end that intello seemed better as it was more expensive,.plenty had used on here and that it let's moisture out the kit. I think it'll be very similar to one another but I have a SIPS kit I don't want any trapped moisture. I didnt go with the plus stuff as it is required if you need to support insulation fill only. I have osb internals so no support required. The way I looked at it was its 1500 quid in a 400k build and a key part. I've done that loads now and I'm sure the budget is stuffed because of that approach but who cares. For my Tony tray is used cheap green plastic that I got from b and q last minute as I'd never heard of a Tony tray until the night before the joists were going in and it was a mad rush. It's been ripped and damaged in places which I repaired. But doing it again for what I know now I'd defo choose something much better there like intello plus.

Slightly disconcerting they are focusing on gas costs when electricity is about 4-5 times the price. I'm currently involved in Hinkley point C, whichnis being built by EDF and the chinese. Original target 13 billion I believe, currently at 24 billion last I checked and projected for 33 Billion. I'm a fan of nuclear, but the costs get to us of course. I'm also involved in offshore wind heavily, costs also massive but we should see that Co e down over time but we were just getting major momentum globally which will drive price per kWh high for 10 years maybe. All in my opinion of course.

I think it's important to understand the standard and ensure you comply, get agreement with the BCO also. But importantly for me regardless of cost its one if the singular areas of importance and everyone should ensure they have a pragrammtic approach to fire safety to ensure it works.

You maybe didn't read my post properly, there are no roof spaces in a vaulted SIPS build, and where a loft space was added I added a barrier on the outside but not required again at top as it cannot enter a roof space as there is no eaves access it is a solid panel. For typical timber frame with trusses you are correct. They are (I also spent considerable time talking to tenmats technical dept). For reference for others it is a tenmat FF102/50 for ventilated cavity timber frame systems or with outer block its a tenmat FF107 or equivalent.

Sounds a pain in the arse. ? I have different roof overhangs on an elevation. No hip though mine ends as a glazed gable with big overhang. But you could do a angled soffit to make it work, that's what I have but mostly for the look, I didn't want pork chop soffits box ends.

I spent considerable amounts of time trying to rationalise the rules as both the handbook and the images in it are not very clear. I'd visited others and found they had cavity barriers actually at the base of the cladding, between floors and also at the top of the ventilated gap- which seemed insane. In agreement with my BCO I have one single strip around my main house between ground and first floor, which would stop a fire in the ground floor reaching upstairs through the cavity theoretically but should also be stopped by the window firestops from coming in the cavity. I didnt need at the bottom as it's a slab and the didn't need at the top as it's a SIPS kit and I have fully vaulted ceilings so no loft space. I did add it at a point where I added loft space over the kids rooms as technically it's a new compartment. I didnt add anywhere the top of the cavity I don't need it as I dont have standard eaves where it could get into that loft space as its a SIPS overhang and solid. I didnt add anywhere around on my single story vaulted space as its double height but the same space so no compartment to transfer into. Of course all around the house horizontal travel is stopped by battens and where the battery wasn't straight I used Firefoam to fill gaps. I mounted the intumescent barrier straight on the kit where the void was small enough, but some areas the void was above 44mm and that was its rated width so I mounted on 22mm sarking to close the gap to within tolerance but maintaining the ventilation gap. some pics to help. You have to look close to see the barrier as it's silver. It's not in some pics, just battens.

I've literally just done this. SIPS kit with knauf aquapanel (200m2) mounted on battens main part of the house with a 80m2 leg that is getting clad in fibre cement (was origonaly siberian larch but changed mind). All mounted on battens with a ventilation gap. £2500 is a lot. I used battens at corners as normal firestops, and normal firestops around windows the same. You just ventilate around windows cutting battens back to get airflow. You will need special Intumescent fire barriers which are not the normal red type from tenmat. They do a specialist one that comes in 1m sections and is 3 times the price, but it is the right one and goes horizontally. So in short 1 - agree 2 - bang on. 3 - use t &g or flip to fibre cement and then you only need them top and bottom. Cedral sell them at a reasonable price in the solid versions, avoid the mesh rolls. I found it a PITA in most areas. Do you have an insulated foundation? I'm also Scotland so everything I have done will work for you.

We used to have a safe fixed into the wall behind a painting. Thinking back now, it was pretty cool.

Now started fitting at the weekend. The paslode brads work perfect, great hold and ant see a thing. So far no pre drilling required at the ends. Can't see the fixings from 2m away.

Ordered Monday and arrived Saturday. Zero hassles using Latzel. Another +1

I priced against ultimate - a shame really as I'd like to use local but just not at £1k difference.