SuperJohnG

defo not - great value! Thanks for doing the legwork..?

Because I have full height tilt and turn windows already installed, plus not the look we were going for.

Just as an update I just made an order to Latzel: 8 rolls of Intello 8 tubes of orcon 40 rolls of 60mm Tescon Vana £1484 from Latzel vs £2474 here in UK. Those figures are both minus VAT and with an exchange rate of 1.17. Hopefully comes before xmas.

Thanks @Radian I'd seen these too. Where did you get yours from?

Any specific reason other than costs?

Been looking for a Juliet balcony for some time, desperate to order now as we wolkd like to get for Christmas and get fitted (I know I should've sorted a while back) We want the style below...but are struggling to find anywhere the mounts in black. Does anyone know of any? Or am I going to have to get some and then somehow coat them to be matt black? Any recommendations for suppliers also would be good. I'm seeing some crazy swings in prices. Only just 1.2m wide is what we require.

@DC5 did you jave an update on this? Was just about to order from Germany and forgot to check with ultimate insualtion. Wo Deri g if it will be cheaper though?

We put these on my mums garage, they were Kingspan units but didn't know if they were suitable for a house.

Does the van stay as a holiday home if you're in the bad books?

Likely a question you've answered already but was it suitable for use on a non ventilated cavity? I'm currently just getting my k rend TC15 coat applied any day (soon as we have 5 degrees and 2 dryish days in a row) onto my knauff aquapanel which is on a ventilated cavity.

Well done chief. Good to hear!

I've ended up going for the Paslode st/stl Brads for the second fix gun - they seems absolutely solid on the test piece, hence going to give that a try. Will report back once the soffit cladding is up!

@Russell griffiths I'm back on this. Joiner reckons the second fix t head stainless works fine and done a wee test today. Do you get the second fix stainless in ring shank? That would make me happy I think. Image attached of normal type full head head finishing gun below for those who are looking in the future. Paslode say they do a specific 2.8 x 50mm Neil for cladding. But not sure if it is normal d head type which will look gash.

Nope not bloody wasn't....but the thoughy was there at least!

I'm hoping to get a nice finish is siberian larch unsorted so is pretty neat. Do those t head ones go into the wood below surface then?

Thanks!

Looks great @Russell griffiths. Wish I had the cedthebutnits was more than double the price. What fixings did you use? Normal d head or full size?

Thanks I'd been on there and the fact the say screw is also confusing but makes sense. Do e screw manufactures say you don't need to pre drill as it is a cutter type fixing but in larch you may have to....seems not consistent in some cases. In an ideal world I think I'd pre drill and use screws to provide piece of mind but can imagine it taking ages and time is something we are short of just now.

I had looked at this originally when I was going to do the walls in larch, but now this is for soffits and it's T&G (tongue too small for hidden fixing - plus I wouldn't want the worry of it splitting over time) hence happy with a face fix. Plus I am up against it with time - scaffold costing extra right now and I want to get joiners well on with fixing this to get it closed for winter and as much done as possible to get scaffold down.

Old thread revival - I'm just about to embark on this journey. I have 100m2 of Siberian Larch to put up on the soffits which are angled plus I have a huge canopy area. The timber is T&G and will be face fixed. The fixings will be stainless, but I am stuck on the type. Ideally I would nail it for speed, my joiner has offered up using the paslode and he has a no mark tip and would use like the small nails you use for doing skirtings so you lose the head - but he wanted to gorilla glue it also and thinks that will work well to hold it - but I am doubtful the glue is a good idea as nobody seems to do that. The lost head nails look like a good shout if you get annular ring shank type that can get shot from the gun - only thing holding me back from this is that the supplier said that you shouldn't break the surface of the timber with the fixing - so to use full head type that you would get with a coil nailer. Alternative is to use the screws, but the time and costs might be excessive? So a final question or two: 1) Would nailing with the full head be best for speed? or shoudl screws be the best bet? 2) In either case - shoudl I be thinking about pre drilling all the holes? as Siberian larch is so dense I hear that it's wise to do this? any input appreciated.

Defo get one. Only 100 quid from wunda

We are in Scotland and just had to show SEPA that the ground wasnt free draining. I discharge both rainwater and the treatment tank output into the burn (small river) that runs through the plot.

I'm all for them. I've planned one for ours, we are rural, so will be ASHP but in the event power was to be lost (now admittedly I've only jad a power cut once in my life thats lasted 2 days when a farmer took out pole) it will provide backup. But I have 2 acres of woods that I manage myself so free wood,.sustainably managed and we are not near anyone and my neighbours 400m.away have one. Plus...I like the smell of it outside. I know thats silly.as thats particulate going into my lungs...but shit I used to smoke 20 fags a day. I'd advocate a stove witha direct air feed also to retain air tightness

I can drop you a pm with some details. Panels quality good, everything else needs more details.

Following with interest... in now realising those vaulted ceilings I have a resource going to be a pain. I'm due due start airtightness shortly...and planning in buying a tower. I have 5.2m to the apex internally.