SuperJohnG

There are various topics covering this question but I need a slightly different answer as most of these have the DPM inside the EPS systems whereas as mine wraps up the front and meets with the DPC. Here is an image of the build up: I seem to have two issues, which I'll deal with separately: 1) What to cover the EPS upstand with and importantly how best to attach it 2) Wall build up to reach past the Upstand. EPS Upstand: There are a good few threads on what others have done from Cement board to Ubiflex and UPVC. But they all seemed to have only the DPM folded over so seemed easier. I have a DPC from the top and the DPM from the bottom- which I have joined together (seemed to make sense) but I could cut it back. I suppose it doesn't really matter what I choose to put here but I was wondering the best way to attach it. If it is cement board should I screw through the board right into the concrete? for Ubiflex or UPVC - just try and cut back and use EPS compatible adhesive of some kind? Wall build up: I have planned a ventilated cavity with render board I'd think I need to get out past the EPS upstand so when water runs down the wall it drops past the edge to the ground. However I have just noticed that the drg the engineer has used above, has the correct 50mm thick batten (50 x 75mm to mount renderbaord) but rather than use a 12.5mm render board he has shown a 30mm thick board, which isn't correct. Hence if I do this build up it won't be as far out to clear the EPS. The actual upstand is 60mm thick, hence with a 50mm Gap and 12.5mm board (not sure of render build up depth - it'll be thin coat silicone render) I barely squeeze past the upstand but definitely clear the cladding for the EPS upstand. What's the best way to do this? I could build out the battens, but it feels like they are really big already at 50mm thick? should I add an L shaped trim to top of upstand (Like others have in aluminium) so any water drops on that then runs off? is it ok for this to sit further out than the wall finish? it feels like it shouldn't. I I've attached a picture of what it currently looks like. I've also cross referenced existing threads for anyone else in the future.

I've just managed to get 2700mof BS5534 25 x 50mm battens for 80p/m - double Decembers price. However most others now selling at £1.10 and the guy just told me they have just been offered them wholesale at £1.40 (thats them buying for the their 20 off branches.). It's gone mad for sure - but there is still honest trade suppliers out there with stock. It'll be short lived and 2-4 months be back more reasonable. It's just rubbish if you need it now.

Now its 2021 and time for me to revive this thread....same problem. Need a fire door to go from garage to utility but needs to be air tight and good options available? Scottish regs require a good bit of cross ventilation in garage (which makes me question the need for an insualyed garage door but that's a separate issue). So air tight door or standard FD30/60 with some seals added?

It's a complete pisser. Albeit I havent purchased mine yet...simply as protek still aren't selling them 6 months on. I refuse to pay sbz the extra cash.

Or remortgaging.

You'd never maintain heat with an ASHP it just doesn't heat it fast enough. This is why you need more storage, 210l sounds too small to me as you store at a lower temp. You either need to store water at higher temp which means you'll lose the COP on the ASHP and it'll costs more or possibly a bigger tank.

Yes planners. I woukd just call and ask what needs to be di e to consider that the development has commenced. Planners aren't that scary in my experience.

I had a letter which was 25 years old which stated 'the development had commenced' that seemed to do the the trick when I bought my plot. I could have continued on no hassles. Added: in order originally for that letter yo have ben written the previous owner agreed with them when would be considered as commencing. In our plot it was planting the trees on the periphery,.making the access and pouring a few linear metres of founds.

I filled some minor gaps in lining paper with caulk a few years back...despite 5-6 coats of paint it's glaringly obvious it's there as it seems to stay shiny that bit. Haunts me each day. ?

Use the search function and you'll get lots of results. https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/search/?&q=Loopcad&search_and_or=or For a guide to the heating design process But most on here have used Wundatrade to provide design and supply. If you wanted to draw yourself. Loopcad does a free trial.

Trying to get battens at the moment.. two weeks ago... Todays prices: That's a 40% rise on 25x 50mm battens, and I really need them right now. WTF.

I think I have a VP400 roofing membrane on mine - so hoping that would suffice. What did you end up attaching the battens with? the engineer has specced nails, and from what I have seen so far looks like it'll be fine. I think you used screws though eh ?

why???? lol. this is where I get confused. lol

It's mainly due to them wanting it like that (and that's all the roofers I have talked to) it's down to them being able to position the slates for the headlap easily. But if you have a good slate that is consistent then I don'tsee the point - exactly as you say I just don't think they get it (yet). Did you counterbatten then batten? only go with the existing membrane also on the SIPS roof?

I have now reached the point where I need to buy battens or sarking for the top layer, SIPS roof will be fitted next week and then its over to me to fit them before roofers come on site. I had made my mind up to use sarking as it's what the roofers wanted however of late changed my mind somewhat for two reasons: 1) Reading the STA (structural timber association) guide it says minimum 50mm ventilation gap for SIPS roof. but the counterbatten (25mm) and sarking option (22mm) kind of means i only have a 25mm gap as the sarking forms a full covering - albeit the gaps in sarking help air flow. 2) I checked the cost difference. Ignoring the counter battens as in either case I require these: Sarking costs: 350m2 - £3055 for materials only - then I would need more nails and also another membrane on top of the sarking. Counterbattens: 350m2 - £1872 for materials only (this could comedown if I use 22mm battens to £1372) - but less less nails also plus I don't see why a membrane would be needed over the battens, makes no sense as there is a membrane on the SIPS outer layer. For me - it seems if I ignore the roofers wants then with battens rather than sarking I can reduce costs but also I can provide that 50mm ventilation gap. Is there anything I am missing?

Can't believe protek are still out the game that's crazy. I had hoped to go with them after end of tax year but seems to still be an issue. I grudge self build zone. Taking the pee with the costs...

Never heard of that. I always regardless of painting or final wallpaper but them up tight.

I seem to but all shortish lengths of 5-20m. I know thw SIPS folk recycle the eps they don't use. Melt it down into hard blocks then ship it to China believe it or not to be used for making things in moulds.

I've not had a skip on site yet and kit it.most of the way up. Any rubbish I take myself to the local dump on a Saturday morning. I hate stuff going in landfill but I'm also realistic in that sometimes it just has to happen. Although I've a few items that I can't see any way to get rid of them but landfill but seems wasteful. UfH pipes that are left over SIPS packer panels which they were shipped with And some EPS sheets from the insulated foundation...and ideas how to reuse or discard any of them better tha going in landfill ?

I used David Narro associates here in Glasgow and Edinburgh. It's far away but it's just engineering.

I can confirm it is totally solid, I'm pretty sure the cast of River dance plus their cousins and It'd still not be at 8mm deflection. I know where most of mine will roughly be but not perfectly planned. My bathrooms are directly above the downstairs bathroom and the main soil stack so hoping for minimal runs transverse through the joists.

Hadn't thought of that till now. Fortunately I'm using flexible pipe and ducting. But I do also still have access at the stairwell Fortunately as I will need to 4" wastes from upstairs.. but all generally short.. it'll just be like a big horizontal game of connect 4.

It's 6m span, I had checked the span tables and a 304 would have done it at 400mm centres. seems excessive for sure. I'll let you know how difficult it is to turn an MVHR pipe in there! Seems definitely like the logical approach. For the master I'll try and get some insulation in there, albeit it is 2dB a change by 3dB is actually a halving of the sound power. So it's significant. Soundbloc and resilient bars being the best bet. I'll need to do a wee bit of research on flanking sound, thanks.

My SIPS kit is going up. I hadn't bothered too much about joists before other than to check they were sufficient to stop any bounce. But now as the kit is going up I'm noticing there seems to be A LOT. They have doubled up joists and 400mm centres. so roughly 200mm spacing between the them, they are 254mm Joists. The designer said that was what the programme spat out...which is fine. It would seem the floor should be solid which was my main query initially which it definitely will be I assume, but I hadn't thought of any downsides. But now seeing it, looks like it will be a PITA to get insulation between the joists, then I'll have big areas with no insulation due to the joists. So a few questions: 1) Does this seem like a lot of Joists? (Note no load bearing walls on any joists) 2) How best to insulate between them? and will it be effective considering I cannot do where the joists are. I have rooms above the garage (which are outside the thermal envelope) so that would be my concern there. I have my master bedroom above the lounge and whilst heat loss isn't a concern there, noise transmission would be. I was planning on using resilient bars for the PB there anyways. 3) I assume now running services will be a pisser also?

Looks great. That basement height will be mega.