joe90

I did not take into account carpet but I wedged the bottom off the floor to allow for tiles, after tiling I let it fall on the tiles then fixed it to the wall. We have a half landing which makes it even more difficult but as made the half landing myself I just built it to fit the walls.

My downstairs cloakroom (toilet, basin, washing machine) has a wall switch fir the light and it was signed off by my electrician.

I had a stairbox staircase and they are good in my opinion (and my builders). Just get two of you to measure it, twice. Two heads are better than one. Yes a good fitter will be used to “trimming/packing” to fit.

I had one of these new screeds, very wet time of year and house just been plastered. I got two industrial de humidifiers to help but I scraped the surface anyway to make it super flat (small bubbles on the surface). HOWEVER, as some will know from another thread I have some tiles (not all) that are sounding hollow, yet to find out what the problem is but we don’t believe it’s the screed causing it. I have read somewhere the screed should not be dried by heating it with the UFH.

I know what you mean, I was lucky, my very good builder measured with me to make sure it was accurate (even tho I was fitting them). Have you plastered the stairwell?

It’s the pump, which you will see from the pic above is next to the plant but now on a concrete pad, rubber mounted and lined with accounting foam.

Anyone???

When I built the garage first, the BC officer told me I needed a soakaway, I pointed out the solid yellow clay that existed just under the topsoil and told him there is no way it would work. I connected my French drain to a pipe out to a ditch in the road and he signed it off without question. I am hoping he does the same with the house as I did the same there. ?

Your wiggle wire link does not work!

If you design the mountings before the cladding goes on you can make sure you have sufficient “meat” to fix into in the right places.

Welcome to sunny Devon (at times), not sure where you are but I am near Bude. This is a great forum full of great ideas and a LOT of knowledge. If you did demolish and start again you can claim the VAT back, or, not pay VAT if your builder supplies materials and labour like mine did.

I must admit mine is quite large, (oversized unit but cheap on Ebay and I have a large loft) you can get single room versions, someone will be along in a mo to tell you more.

Is the black thing on the ceiling an extract?, I have seen these with a light incorporated! Not sure where tho.

Yes Roz, mine is near passive and I get your point about space for insulation but insulation works on diminishing returns so if you have half the insulation you get more than half the value. Once insulation gets to a certain level airtightness becomes a major factor are you considering MVHR. (Recover the heat from your rooms and fresh warm air in?).

Great minds think alike ?

My two bathrooms are on separate time clocks as the ensuite will be used every day but bathroom for visiting guests only.

My new build has UFH downstairs and not upstairs, the bathrooms have electric towel radiators and our en suite has electric UFH. I believe we will have adequate heating but our back up is a couple af electric radiators fir the very few days a year an extra bit of heating is required. We also have a wood burner and it raises the heat within the whole house (quite large). Ask me again in a years time.

Well when I had my new build wired it was done in two rings and he did it as left hand side and right hand side, I am used to upstairs and downstairs but my spark said if it’s done left and right and a trip goes you still have some light on each floor.

Our floors were specked at 600 centres but the builder (and I agreed) to make them 400 and I don’t regret that decision.

There’s no pleasing some people but if you offer information some will come on board.

Thanks, they aren’t causing a problem apart from annoying me and the missus. I might not do anything with it yet as we are 90% finished but feel like 90% still to go! (Like Jeremy said ?).

Yup, 200 pir is close to 300 eps.

Yes we had a neighbour that objected about quite a few things regarding our build and the appeal said his objections were not reasonable or valid . So yes just because they object does not mean you will not get planning permission (NIMBY). A good way to get on peoples side I believe is just be honest but listen to their opinion.

Flow screed, new type that did not produce scum on the top but I did scrape it In case and used three coats of primer as directed by Nick. I will lift one and report back ?

Some sound “solid” but some sound hollow, especially if you drop something on them, fork when washing up for example. I am just worried that if I start digging them up then tiles under the kitchen units or skirting will come up with them which will be impossible to sort without trashing my new kitchen.