joe90

Yes no real deterrent for those caught. I wonder how much thieving gets done in the Middle East where they chop your hand off if caught?

On a previous house I wanted to demolish the barn next to it and rebuild it, Council told me if I did that they would insist it was half the size (due to being close to a road) so I “renovated” it. Re roofed it then replaced wall sections one at a time. The building inspector who was overseeing work on the house (who I got on well with) praised me for beating the planners at their own game. I would ask the planners if they would allow you to replace the existing (by demolishing sand rebuilding), if they say not, do what I did ?

I forget where I saw it but someone who DIYed their passive slab made shuttering from timber to support the outside from “blowing”. I suppose it depends on your ground and your ability to guess the loads imposed, could be expensive and messy if you got it wrong! ?

Your ground looks like the clay I have and just as soggy, good work with your man shed. Can you get the car in it????

very difficult to tell as the house is still settling down, during most of the year it’s DHW only and a typical month was £30, but I have a workshop with many many tools so can’t separate that out, our last jan bill was £120 .

Not close I suppose but above the pipework so air can be vented (I believe)

You mentioned a collapsed drain, was any of the wall rebuilt as a result of this?. It looks to me (not a professional) that the newer brickwork has moved in the lower section. To check for further movement you can glue a slip of glass across the crack (wide pointing), if the glass breaks it’s still moving, if it does not then it’s settled.

I have a 5K ASHP with UFH and DHW cylinder heated to around 48’, I also have a large bath that I occasionally soak in. I have to add a small amount of cold water to it as @SteamyTea says! 48’ is too hot for even me. Because I don’t have to add a lot of cold water I have a fairly large 300litre DHW tank and even with visitors have never run out yet.

My DHW cylinder fits into a space 600mm wide, 700mm deep 1.7m high, including pipes, add 300mm high fir expansion tank.

Right, my system is a little different, I have a 80litre buffer tank as recommended, it has an immersion in case of ASHP failure. The buffer (in winter) is always topped up by the ASHP, when the room stat calls for heat it instantly gets heat from the buffer tank. The buffer tank is well insulated and any (small amount) of heat loss is into the house anyway. I decided if the buffer tank was heated when the room stat called for heat it would take even longer fir the heat to get into the house as UFH takes a long time anyway. At least one other person here does not have a buffer and uses the volume of water within the UFH ccts to stop the short cycling of the ASHP. The heating season is short in our house and when I decide it’s not required I simply turn off the heating into the buffer tank. I do not suffer from excess heat into the house from either the buffer or DHW tank as they are both very well insulated.

ah, I have another of those that is for sale!!,, can you give me her email address ?

this year I am building a tractor shed next to my workshop to keep my “big boy gardening” stuff in (tractor, topper, saw bench etc etc).

for years I have used Tesco crates, in my van and my workshop (in a wooden frame so crates can be pulled out) , very tough with built in handles. Handled long tools hung on the wall .

Yes, my lighting is fine for “general work” but I have a mobile led floodlight and a 125 watt CFL for close up and intricate work.

He worked from the frame inwards so the perps were all (nearly) equal. Great job isnt it?

Ah!, my builder cut hundreds of my bricks in half as I wanted either full or half bricks at every window and door edge (I am a bit OCD and had doors and windows made to fit the openings), with mine two sides were seen so asked that the cut edge was against the Mortor joint. (They were long bricks so half was not the same as the width) With yours as a header Course you will not see the cut edge so it’s not so important ;is it?. My builder used a disc cutter then bolster.

Are you cutting them longwise to create a brick slip?

I used these for isolating my hot and cold feeds to my manifolds and they are very good .

just nipped out and took this......

Screwfix used to sell ones with a little handle rather than a screwdriver slot, much better.

and I did ?

yes, I have done quite a few but the first one was a bitch ?, your right, best to cough up a fiver and a cup of tea.

For my workshop I opted for led strips glued to the roofing joists, I did this because my last workshop had fluorescent tubes (economical) but smashed a few waving long lengths of timber about. I also have an old angle poise for finicky work

there is definitely a knack to get these out and in.

The shut off valve tends to be In pipework (pipe in both ends) and a service valve has a thread one end to fit an appliance . This is an appliance valve for a washing machine, pipe in one end and washing machine pipe the other. https://www.screwfix.com/p/washing-machine-valve-without-check-valve-15mm-x/51231