joe90

Thanks @christianbeccy, my floor tiles have not stuck to the liquid screed (not sure if it’s the tile or floor) can’t bring myself to rip the whole floor up till next year but have earmarked that stuff for when I do ?

I fancy a grit blaster but would not use it that much so I use a wire scratch brush and hammerite.

I would imagine this weather is not helping, they need to be fixed (well) in place ASAP.

If the bracket is designed fir the bag then no, it’s fine. BUT it depends on the bricks, some are full of holes inside so the anchors may not hold!!!, I would try it, and fit the top holes into the mortar bed between bricks (which should not have any voids).

definitely ? But once set up in a “station” with large in and out tables very useful. Great fir “troughing”.

Never heard of those before, I have a tile cutter that’s similar!!! Did find this one but not big enough for you I guess. I also have a triton work centre that allows the saw to slide above the wood but not sure of max width (it’s buried in my container so can’t measure it, https://www.toolstation.com/triton-twx7-910w-project-saw-127mm/p10002?store=FB&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&gclid=CjwKCAjw_LL2BRAkEiwAv2Y3ScUclkwM3_mIg1ec0NL3Cgx9zDSOqmAe9ba_5q_gi-8EBHgdA4oORhoCzUwQAvD_BwE if Russel is right and you want it for I beams , I have a large radial arm saw but far too much trouble carrying the beans into my workshop, I made a jig/guide for my circular saw to cut them in situ.

+1, UFH downstairs, electric UFH in ensuite, electric towel rads in both bathrooms, no heating elsewhere upstairs but a couple of fan heaters in the cupboard in case of extreme cold/feeling unwell etc (they have not been needed yet) I don’t like overheated bedrooms but I do like an electric blanket in winter ?

it’s not your architects call (unless he points out it will NOT work!!!). It’s YOUR house, have what you both want, yes a spiral does limit furniture movement but if it’s what you want then go for it. ?.

I have a couple of long extension leads I occasionally use together fir a hedge trimmer ( I did buy a second hand generator but it was a pain/noisy to use). Just make sure it’s dry, fully unwound and put away after use and it will be fine.

I bought my ASHP AND MVHR on Ebay for way lower cost than elsewhere, in fact I buy stuff most days, especially during the lockdown, (I hate shopping).

Knock one up from scaffold planks, done it a few times and works great.

I have done several loft conversions and never removed bedroom ceilings, I always added flooring joists between the ceiling joists raised above the plaster a little. I don’t sister existing ceiling joists as this gives rise to more noise transference. This gives maximum height within the loft conversion by keeping the floor as low as possible.

I don’t think so, even our @Jeremy Harris had problems understanding his (virtually same as mine). I am loathed to change it as it works fine ?

unfortunately I don’t know (not a tecky type) but i have never seen my ASHP defrost and my bills are very small. As a rough guide I was running on immersions before I commissioned the ASHP and our bills were triple at least so a COP of 3 or more ?

Mine is a bit different in that the controller was sooo complicated i only managed to set it to deliver 48’ to either DHW or buffer tank fir UFH. The manifold blends down to 24’ fir heating and 48’ is more than enough DHW..

I bought a long bladed hedge trimmer for my hedges but as I get older it’s harder to wield ?.

I have a good quality loft ladder (pull down type) fir access to my “loft” but it is fully insulated “warm roof” and could be used fir other purposes in the future ?. My mate converted his loft fir his teenage son to have room fir all his “stuff” and a similar loft ladder permanently down. Just list it as “storage”.

I have a 4KW ASHP fir both heating (UFH) and DHW and it copes fine. I have a buffer tank fir the UFH but some here do not, not sure I really need it but it means I have spare capacity to heat the floor Rather than wait fir the ASHP to cycle up to temp and it has an immersion for backup. Mine is 80litre. I heat both tanks to 48’ and manifold blends down to 25’.

My builder was great and did just the shell (I was supposed to do all structural timber, roof etc but became ill so he did it). You’re trump card is you have the existing build to live in, some have to rent or live in a caravan during the build which is harder. I concentrated on what I knew o could do and was good at and subbed out stuff I did not want to do.

I tested mine with a “cheap” bung and a head of water but it just would not stay in, it’s surprising how much pressure a few feet of head will give (along comes @SteamyTea with a graph ?).

I agree, working to that tolerance with walls is not really achievable (mostly), you need some “wiggly” room. Are you’re walls and plaster that accurate???., lots of people have 20mm upstands and that gives you even more tolerance.

It was easy for me as I fitted kitchens amongst other work so the kit was used frequently. I also do lots of woodwork. With my build I wanted to do everything but certain things would take too long, cost more in kit etc etc, so I had to bite the bullet and sub things out which left me to get on with what I could do. shame you’re the other end of the country!,!,, unless your into woodwork it’s probably not worth the cost/risk. Not that I use face ache (Facebook) but I am sure you will find someone local that could do it fir you for a bit of cash.

I used to do mitre joins, even for other “kitchen fitters”! still have the kit and did my own on our build. Yes you need a decent sized router, good cutters and accurate jig, but I taught myself but takes practice. I am sure there are plenty of u tube vids to show you how. Yes good to do joins before cutting pieces to length in case you make a small error. You will get a lot of self satisfaction when you do a good job.

I too am on clay and very flat, I installed a Vortex treatment plant that can be discharged to a ditch even if it’s dry fir a part of the year (as long as you use a rubble drain to connect to said ditch. BC wanted a soakaway fir rainwater but I pointed out it would not drain at all and I wanted to discharge to the same ditch which currently carries all ground water anyway and he agreed. I decided against rainwater harvesting but will use a couple of tanks to collect rainwater off my workshop fir a veg garden at a later date.

ha, I bought a Massey Furguson (no not my 1950 grey furgy) it’s also called a “simplicity garden tractor “, the oil seals at both wheels were leaking and found that the axle assembly was “sealed for life “ and could only be repaired in a specialist workshop. I like a challenge so dug the oil seals out and found some to match so fitted them. I could find no spec for oil or content as it was “sealed for life “ so googled the manufacturer and they were in Seattle USA so I gave them a call and spoke to a tech guy and told him I worked for Mercedes as a auto gearbox specialist ? (it makes people think you know what your doing ?) he was great and told me how to “break into the axle, amount and type of oil required. Job done ?. No such thing as sealed for life.