joe90

I googled “what weighs 54kg” and it came up with a cheeta, now I have never met a cheeta or carried one but I bet a bunch of strong blokes could easily lift those!!!! What height do you need to lift them too? My JCB could easily lift them but may not have the reach. On a roof job we had glue lams that weighed more than that and two of us got them into the loft of a house!!!

definitely with cold lofts and lots of ceiling insulation.

I wonder which part of the dry ridge he expects to fail?, stainless screws?, perhaps the plastic inserts!. I still think Mortor (stiff) on a timber (flexible) roof structure is asking fir failure.

You ol chammer you!!!, I found this on u tube, may be helpfull. One of my hates about slates is the difficulty replacing broken ones where tile are easy but not with hooks!!!!

Yes you are not paying fir a DIY job,!

unless like some (and me) you balance at the manifold.

Get another couple of quotes.

well I didn’t know that, I just know it’s very flat!

YES!,!,,!,,,,,!,

Yes, my builder wanted 400mm centres and mentioned bounce (or break when stood on ?). My slates are fitted on hooks, not nails, looks great and no breakages (also easier to replace broken slates). Perhaps hooks and 50x50 batts.

so am I!?

As per your last post, I have 200mm full fill with batts, BBA certified for full fill, I know it does not wick moisture, easy to fit lt can be stuffed in awkward corners, does not need accurate fitting/glued/foamed, and yours is rendered mine is brick. No brainier . (IMO).

That sounds plausible!. Don’t see why a plastic CU would make any difference tho? @ProDave ?

As an ex BTman, nor can I, historically sockets used to have a small gas discharge tube to absorb lightning or high voltage, but as they were very small I am not sure how well they worked. Looking at your master socket the force came from terminal 5 ( one leg of the incoming line) and left side of cct board where there is nothing, guessing it could have leapt to the face plate screw in that area which will be earthed!!!!,

After years of neglect our plot is similar, slowly getting on top of it tho. Yes Gallup 360 takes about 4 weeks (for soft weeds) I spend my life digging up bramble roots but have been told constant mowing will see it off. ?

As someone who has done GRP roofs myself that is shoddy work, but as @SteamyTea says it’s fixable. Another example of Some tradespeople not paying attention to detail.

Well done mate, makes me feel tired thinking about how much you have done,!!!

No No (Apart from during the build. I covered all wall tops during inclement weather) see..... yes it does it’s vapour permeable.

Yours is rendered block so should not be a problem, as I said mine is brick and will wick water but it got nowhere once in the dritherm. Blown beads was an alternative but as it’s always windy down here I am sure half of them would end up in Somerset ?????.

My inner skin is block as I hate thermalites (don’t ask). By brickie did not like full fill as he was “old school “ and believed an air gap was required but he accepted the BBA cert. I guess so, my reason for dritherm was ease of installation as PIR needs to be fitted tightly or foamed together to avoid gaps. Read somewhere that small gaps in insulation drastically reduces its efficiency and batts can be “stuffed” into odd corners etc. Also PIR is a petrochemical product and I bought myself a hair shirt ????.

my 200mm cavity is full filled with 2x 100, Dritherm 32 Batts, BBA certified as ok for full fill. My wall is brick not render and during the winter the West wall (facing the Atlantic) bricks got sodden and I had to core drill a hole for ASHP pipes, this enabled me to test if the insulation was wet Which it was not apart from the first inch touching the bricks. No idea what my U value is but it’s a warm house. Handling the insulation was ok, not like fibreglass at all.

Will 100mm cavity batt give you a good enough U value?. My cavity is 200mm full fill with batts, brick and block skins.

My build is brick and block and airtightness very good, parge coat and wet plaster to inside, silicone to cables in sockets. Don’t see any point in airtight external skin.

With my metal garage roof I simply laid a membrane under the metal roofing, it was to stop drips on my tools etc, works perfectly but For you it means lifting the roofing sheets. Any insulation can be installed underneath then.

We wanted National Trust olive green, but found they use more than one shade, depending where it is. Foolishly we picked a colour on my iPad, ral 1000, informed our window manufacturer and they sprayed them. Upon delivery I nearly had a fit. They looked very “yellow” and the wife said can I repaint them? . “Not on your nelly” I replied, I hate painting which is why I paid to have them sprayed. It turns out they go well with the rustic bricks and everyone compliments the colour and we have grown to like them (thank goodness). Funnily enough the colour appears to change with the light. So, the moral of this story is, if picking a colour, go see it in the flesh, not on a devise and in natural light (We were lucky).