joe90

My roofer did a brilliant job with my slates but one small section (or even one slate) on the windy side of the roof “rattles” in high winds, problem is I don’t fancy being up a long ladder in high winds to identify the offending slate! Make sure you get them tight.

Cmon @Paris22 plans please even if CAD (crayon assisted drawing). you can probably tell I hate planners, had a two year fight that cost me ££££ but I won in the end (and not for the first time).

Personally I would not give them a penny, spend the money on a formal application. The neighbour consultation scheme, also known as prior notification requires a 21day period where the neighbours of the property in question have the right to object with valid reasoning as to why the extension must not be built. After this the local authority have a further 21 days to issue the go ahead. just found this, three words spring out. WITH VALID REASONING. your neighbours objections are not valid under planning policy and the planners saying if anyone objects they must refuse is plainly wrong (and lazy).

Might be worth a quick read https://www.self-build.co.uk/how-deal-planning-objections/

Definitely, why pay to take it away and import someone else’s crushed concrete.

That’s the spirit, yes quite a few of us have tangled with the planners (and won ?)

@Paris22 how about you post your plans up here, there is a wealth of knowledge about planning etc that may help and save the cost of a consultant (I paid a consultant for my planning fight and she was a waste of money).

I wanted an induction hob but “lost the toss of a coin” (guess who cleans the gas hob, ME!!!)

If he has a 150ft garden and you 100ft then his objection is not valid (re overlooking). I would not speak to the prat again as he is obviously too ignorant and inbred to be considerate.

I agree with all the above, ignore him and get full PP. Our neighbour objected to everything and delayed our build but the appeal officer said none of the objections were valid and we got what we wanted originally. that is not the case (I am very sure)as our neighbour objected but the reason was not valid in law!!!!

go see the other neighbours and have a chat with them.

I just tried to google “how long can a delivery vehicle block a road” and did not get a definitive answer. If your drive is shared then you are entitled to use it. Do you have access to your deeds? Usage of the drive might be specified there. From your post you are only having a single story extension, not a whole house so not that much building stuff!, I would be firm but accommodating to your neighbour. If they want to be complete asses nothing you do will be good enough and that’s their problem to get over!!!!. Just warn the builder

The brackets are there to hold the window to the brick skin, DPC to stop damp within the brickwork migrating into timber etc timber fillet to allow plasterboard to be fixed to the window.forgot to say I used expanding foam gasket on joint between window and brickwork so no ugly sealant to be seen.

I don’t like those, too easily blocked and not easy to get off if the lower pipe is fixed.

Right, here is a (rough) drawing of what I did (edit to add, forgot to notate timber shaped fillet on top of stainless brackets to hold plasterboard edge next to window ?).

I have never successfully fitted those grey fittings, always binned the lot and replaced.

@Matt64 similar to my set up but my windows were on the back of the external brickwork, will do a little sketch in the morning.

Welcome to THE forum and lots of knowledge. I built a “box” (but a pretty box) cottage style. We had no architect (apart from putting my pencil drawings on CAD and little details to meet building regs). Ours is brick and block but with loads of insulation and a great focus on detail (where most builders fall down). I did not do any calculations but followed general principles of how a passive house should be built. It cost a little more than a conventional house but a lot less to run. Looking forward to hearing how you get on. If you fancy a good read look at http://www.mayfly.eu and others on this forum.

Gosh, ain’t Mother Nature cruel. Still a once in 40 year timescale is (fairly ) good news. Perhaps the farmer could be convinced to deepen his burn?????

I would not pay for that (and I can do much better).

Zero I imagine. My Erbauor jigsaw did the same, no spares anywhere so I “grafted” another switch from a broken tool into it with araldite and it lives another day (there is wisdom in not throwing anything away ?).

Bugger!,! My neighbour had a (short) steep concrete drive and he left it rough tamped cross ways to create ridges fir grip and it worked well even in snow. You also need to divert the water somehow, a ditch filled with 50mm stone is usual on road sides?

Just found this in tinternet. Softer than most rocks, slate is perfect for a work surface due to its longevity when properly maintained. However, its softness means it's susceptible to scuffs or scratches. Although scratches can add 'character', they might be inconvenient, too deep, or simply ruin the beautiful aesthetic of the work surface.

If it were my place RSJ/UB would be my choice, as said above too much can fail with gallows brackets.

I have installed slate hearths for people even tho I advised against it because they scratch easily, guess what, they wished they had not!!!